Thread: New to waxing

I searched but some how didnt get any results. Anyways...

Ive decided that its worht my while to invest my money into equipment to wax my skis and invest my time into learning how to properly do so. Im 17 and do have a job but i need to save up to pay for university so the majority of my pay check goes there. Because of this i dont have $$$ to be spending on top of the line swix irons and expensive ski vices.
Any tips for a new waxer/ tuner (also i hope to one day get a part time job as a tech at a shop so i figure now is a good time to start)

Since i dont have money for ski vices im thinking of using a saw horse, would this work?

Lastly, for starting up, does this kit have everything i need?
http://www.trusnow.com/Dakine-Super-...Tuning-Kit.asp

Thanks in advance!

You could do everything you currently want with a 10" mill bastard file, a wire brush, a steel scraper, a thrift shop iron, a stiff nylon brush, and a table. You should be able to find most everything for around $25, doing most of the shopping at Home Depot. It takes a little dexterity to accurately side file your edges without a file guide, but I did it that way for years. You will want to keep the temperature on the iron low enough not to smoke the wax; with most older irons it's on the low end of "wool" (and if you can find one with no steam holes it's a bonus). I don't know anything about DaKine's all-temp wax, but I normally use more temperature specific waxes from Swix or Toko, it's not rocket science if you read the directions. You definitely don't need the case or the texture pads (the same as the Scothbrite pad on your kitchen sink).

You could add a file guide (probably 1 degree unless you know you want something different) and short panzer file for side filing, an acrylic scraper for scraping wax, and a couple of other brushes for finishing your wax job (short nylon and horsehair, probably). If you use a table, you can prop the tails of the skis up with a couple of 4x4 blocks to keep the bindings from hitting, but it's nice to have something to keep the skis from sliding off the end (try screwing on a strip of 1x1 wood at the end).

Beyond that, it's nice to watch someone good do a complete tune/wax before you butcher your own skis, or to have them watch you when you first start out . . .

I'll second the thrift store iron. The shops will tell you the heat is not as consistent, but i have used them for years and never had a problem. As Greg said, just don't smoke the wax.

Another tip is going to a local shop and asking for a demo on waxing. Most shops have no problem giving you a quick run down, or even showing you on a pair of skis they are working on, how it is done. It especially helps if you are buying the wax from them.

You should start by reading our own dipstik's ski tuning 101. It's an expanded version of the thread [ame=http://tetongravity.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5528]Dipstik's complete photo guide to tuning ski's[/ame].

The cheapest way to wax is to buy an iron from a thrift store, a scotchbright pad, and a scraper.

The only way you can fuck up is if you turn the iron on too high. So just run it as low as possible.

1) melt wax on
2) wax wax in
3) scrape wax off
4) rub down the base with the scotchbright.

Waxing is really easy and almost idiot proof. Its working on edges where you can get in trouble.

Agreed. I waxed my skis for about a year until I touched the edges myself. I am still worried about messing them up but I have a 1 degree guide and it is pretty strait forward with the guide.

Worst thing you can do waxing is waste a lot of wax. I still put way too much on my skis.

go to tognar.com and order a catalog...also look at their tuning tips.

what you need to wax:

iron
swix lo fluoro all purpose wax (buy from tognar)
scotch brite pad
orange based wax remover (tognar)
plastic scraper (tognar)
old t shirt

dribble some wax remover on bases, LIGHTLY rub tip to tail w/ scotchbrite
wipe doen w/ old t shirt (basically lintless)
heat iron to low...if wax smokes, it is too hot
place wax against iron and let run onto base zig zag
after wax is on, run iron up and down base, keep it moving, until wax is evenly coating base
let ski stand and wax cool. scrape off wax. if you want, use an old fairly soft scrub brush, in overlapping strokes, tip to tail, to remove the wax fron the base structure.

there are lots of other things you can do...edge sharpening, base structuring...etc. but the above will give you a good basic wax job.

Originally Posted by gregL

You could do everything you currently want with a 10" mill bastard file, a wire brush, a steel scraper, a thrift shop iron, a stiff nylon brush, and a table. You should be able to find most everything for around $25, doing most of the shopping at Home Depot.

If going that route, is there major downside to using a handled steel scraper (the kind that looks like a putty knife) vs. one of the one piece metal scrapers like Swix sells?

I only opened this cause I was positive that Irul was gonna take the "New to Waxing" title in a totally direction. So disappointing.

a hot scrape cleans the base pores. Iron the wax in as normal, then scrape it off.
A cold wax leaves more wax in the base pores. Iron the wax on as normal, then let it cool. Set the ski aside and iron on the next one. Come back to the first and it is a lot more difficult to scrape all the wax off.

do both: hot scrape, then a cold scrape. for the fresh wax feeling to last a lot longer.

(also everything else with the brushes) I only do my edges once per year, and don't bother on powder skis. Waxing is maybe 4 times per year.

Originally Posted by MarcusBrody

If going that route, is there major downside to using a handled steel scraper (the kind that looks like a putty knife) vs. one of the one piece metal scrapers like Swix sells?

A scraper with a handle is designed for applying spackle to sheetrock; it's hard to keep it square and sharp. The rectangular ones that Swix (you can also get a Stanley one for less money at the hardware store) sells are thicker and squared off at the edge; you sharpen them (often) by holding them at a right angle to your file and dragging them along it. I also tend to bend my scraper a tiny bit when using it to level/clean bases; the non-handled ones bend more uniformly.

In addition to wax, a steel scraper can be used to remove high spots in the base, etc. - an acrylic scraper is just for wax.

don't melt/drip the wax on...rub it on, otherwise known as crayoning it on. i wish someone had told me this years ago. it uses about a third of the wax and it also makes it easier/faster to iron.

Originally Posted by booner

don't melt/drip the wax on...rub it on, otherwise known as crayoning it on. i wish someone had told me this years ago. it uses about a third of the wax and it also makes it easier/faster to iron.

Or at least, don't zigzag it on; a simple quick, straight line down both sides of the ski is about right for most wide skis. Crayoning on also works, but you typically need to "touch up" spots by quickly applying the wax block to the base of the iron and then hitting the thin spot.

And, after you get this down, you can try a Brazilian

Thanks alot guys, very helpful. Ive heard alot of negative things about using a normal iron, so all that stuff isnt really true?
Also i have wax scrapers for surf boards, should that suffice? And could i just find a brass brush at home depot or canadian tire for cheaper than a swix one?

Lastly, should i also buy a really warm wax (yellow) for cleaning waxes? I hear you should.

A $4.00 iron from the thrift store will melt the wax just fine, but it will also overheat the wax just fine. A purpose-built wax iron is usually limited to about 145 degrees C. If the thrift store iron has steam holes in it, it will still melt the wax just fine, it will just drip more on your table when you leave it sitting there. Just be careful.

Are you talking about hot scraping? I would use something cheaper than a temp specific wax like Swix CH10 if you really think you need to hot scrape, it's just a medium for pulling crap out of the pores in your base, but isn't really necessary all that often. Usually hitting the base with cleaner (Citrasolv or Goo-Gone works fine) is enough, plus scraping and a couple passes with the Scotchbrite before you re-wax.

Sorry, I don't know what a wax scraper for a surfboard looks like. Brass brush from the hardware store is fine for cleaning your file and probably fine for structuring your base as long as it's clean (ie. don't use the same one for both jobs).

Oh i almost forgot, can someone recommend a wax for me? I ski anywhere from -5 to -25 celcius and its mostly on old granular ma made snow. We dont get that much fresh up here in ottawa, when we do its pretty packed down in a day or two.

and yea i was talking about a hot wax, but ok ill just pick up some goo gone.

Originally Posted by Canuker

Oh i almost forgot, can someone recommend a wax for me? I ski anywhere from -5 to -25 celcius and its mostly on old granular ma made snow. We dont get that much fresh up here in ottawa, when we do its pretty packed down in a day or two.

and yea i was talking about a hot wax, but ok ill just pick up some goo gone.

The SWIX HF4 would do fine for that range (-32 to -10 C) it's a little more expensive than the others but will cover a pretty big range.

If you're on a budget, high fluoro waxes are more than "a little more expensive" - plus the advantages are more pronounced in warmer, wetter snow.

Swix CH4 or CH6 (non fluoro) would be fine. You can make them more resistant to harsh granular snow by rubbing on a little molybdenum wax under the regular wax or using a "base burn" powder with the regular wax, but if you're just starting out I probably wouldn't bother.

Here's the link to Tognar's Swix range. As you can see, wax gets expensive in a hurry when you start buying fluoro. The 40 gram bar of HF for $69 is about the size of a Twix bar.

http://www.tognar.com/swix_wax_waxes...d.html#SWX-HF4

I pick a wax based on the expected conditions (which for Whistler these days is 0C to -5C) but I try and wax every 5ish days. I use an old iron made of actual iron so the heat is even.

you don't need fluoro if you're not racing, especially if you're on a budget. a good Standard wax will serve you just fine. slidewright.com does some bulk deals. Check the ski shops at the end of the season etc.

There's plenty to learn about waxing if you want to get nutty about it, but just melt some cheap universal non-fluoro wax on with a thrift store iron set to a low temp and you'll be fine.

You can get all geeky about waxing later.

don't forget a respirator

http://sports.espn.go.com/action/fre...ory?id=6042035

Buy bulk wax, it's way cheaper in the long run. I use the warm and cold wax from these guys. Cheap, seems to work well and comes in big blocks. I would not recommend swix temp specific stuff unless you are racing, too expensive.

I primarily use the warm weather stuff to hot scrape (clean) my bases and the cold weather stuff as my daily driver wax. YMMV depending on climate.

Crayon on, uses way less wax and still provides adequate coverage.

Use base cleaner to clean tools and when you need to remove all wax to make major base repairs. Other wise never use that shit, it dries your base out and is expensive. Hot scrape to do all cleaning.

I currently use a real waxing iron, but used thrift store irons for many years. Just make sure you don't smoke the wax, run it just hot enough to melt the wax.

Depending on where you live, edges may be more important than wax/structure. If you live in the East, this will be the case. Get a guide and some stones, use files sparingly. Really just to cut bevel and the occasional recut. Stones (diamond, ceramic, etc) should do the majority of your edge work. Your skis will last longer this way. This is one area not to skimp on.

Scotchbrite pads from the grocery store are great for structure.

Slidewright- maggot owned shop (I'm surprised Terry hasn't chimed in yet), good selection, great to deal with, fair prices. Look on there for tools and tips.

Learn some of the theory behind waxing, structuring and edge work before jumping in- it helps to understand why you are doing something.

Good tunes, good beer, good ventilation- all important to a good tune job.

Good luck!

Edit: Wax doesn't bond well to cold skis, get them to room temperature first

Originally Posted by Canuker

Oh i almost forgot, can someone recommend a wax for me? I ski anywhere from -5 to -25 celcius and its mostly on old granular ma made snow. We dont get that much fresh up here in ottawa, when we do its pretty packed down in a day or two.

and yea i was talking about a hot wax, but ok ill just pick up some goo gone.

Fortune is all ice anyways.. hardly need wax!

Originally Posted by mikemcee

I only opened this cause I was positive that Irul was gonna take the "New to Waxing" title in a totally direction. So disappointing.

I am waitting for Rontele to give a TR