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01-25-2011, 01:19 PM #1
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What 12v battery to buy for Camper
I need to get a new battery for my 4 Wheel Camper. My last one was a Absorbed glass mat battery, which I concluded was the best one for a camper when I bought it 3 or four years ago.
What is the best type of battery to get for my camper now, given current technology? The battery charges off my engine when the engine is running, and powers mostly lights and importantly the furnace fan in the camper.
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01-25-2011, 03:07 PM #2
I asked this same question to Optima for my FWC.
Here is their response:
I went with 31m and am very pleased. It's sealed and lives inside the camper. Charges with an 85w panel on the roof.Depending on your size restrictions I would recommend our largest battery, the BlueTop D31M. A D31M has a 75 amp hour rating and will provide the longest runtime for your application. A step below this would be the BlueTop D27M (66 AH) and a step lower than this would be the BlueTop D34M (55 AH). Below is a link to our BlueTop product line:
http://www.optimabatteries.com/optim...etop/specs.php
Thank you,
Adam
Optima Customer Service
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01-25-2011, 03:37 PM #3
Just checking in to say yo to my fellow FWC owners. My flooded deep cycle battery has been going strong in my FWC Hawk for 5 years, so I have no clue re the best current (pun intended) technology. I have a Honda EU1000i generator to recharge in the field so I seldom allow the cabin battery go below 50% charge. Yeah, the furnance fan is the big current suck in cold weather.
Last edited by Big Steve; 01-25-2011 at 03:51 PM.
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01-25-2011, 03:43 PM #4
2 Trojan 6v T105's in series = 210 amps. Deep cycle that lasts. Add a solar panel for clean green power.
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01-25-2011, 05:02 PM #5
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03-06-2011, 10:01 AM #6
Tell me more about using two 6 volt batteries. I keep hearing this suggestion as the way to go. What is the logic behind this? Cheaper? Longer charge? More amps?
I'm in the process of restoring a gutted travel trailer. When I say gutted, it's more like completely demolished. Took it down to the trailer frame and rebuilt all of the walls in the same dimensions so that I could re-use the existing windows, siding and roof.
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03-06-2011, 10:49 AM #7
DEEP CYCLE, a good quality lead acid battery will last the longest of any when maintained properly. For a vehicle gelcells are probably better choice but no where near the life expectancy. +1 on the PV cell charging to which a wind generator can be added.
You are the mission Bob.
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03-06-2011, 11:53 AM #8
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03-06-2011, 12:25 PM #9
Great link. Thanks.
I'm looking to keep power very simple. I was planning on attaching AAA powered LED lights in strategic locations, but I'm starting to think this will be a better long term solution.
What do I need to get setup? The majority of my trips will be four days or less and I don't spend much time in the trailer. It seems like a logical process would be to pull the batteries from the trailer to charge when I am home or somewhere with hookups. I'll focus on re-charging alternatives a little farther down the road.
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03-06-2011, 03:44 PM #10
This site explains it pretty good. I dont have any experience with rv's but I use similar set up at my cabin with solar panels. When not using batteries for awhile like over winter months I put them on a trickle charger at home.
http://www.marxrv.com/12volt/12volt.htm
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03-06-2011, 04:28 PM #11
Get one with a good (long) warranty, I use a dihard gold as my camper battery in the VW, so far so good, just running lights furnace fan and what ever else I plug into it. If it dies, or begins to calve just return it and pick up another on with a 18 month + warranty.
I don't work and I don't save, desperate women pay my way.












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