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  1. #751
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    西 雅 圖
    Posts
    5,359
    Quote Originally Posted by skian1 View Post
    Plum "J'Envoie Du Gros" and Guides have shipped to dealers in NA.
    You the man, skian! Skis are ready and waiting.

  2. #752
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    AR/SLC
    Posts
    734
    [Reassembling big DIN screw

    Be very careful if removing the big DIN spring completely if disassembling the heel piece. The big DIN screw that threads into the plastic is stripped easily. Plum factory says be careful if doing this, start off by hand until you're sure it's threaded correctly then finish with a screwdriver.]
    For those of you that have replaced the heel unit on to another "stem". Do you have to pull the DIN screw all the way out? Or can you leave it just started in the threads? I bought new base plates & heel supports. I need to switch my heels over to the new base & stem. Thx.
    "... when I turn, I just hope it hits me in the face."--Shroder Baker/Under the Influence

  3. #753
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    59
    I am thinking to get the wide lifter plate add ons for guides and not use the heel piece and just use the toe piece to get a better ramp angle. This would seem to be the same as the yak in terms of ramp angle which is the main benefiting am looking for. Would the collective see any potential problems with this?

    I believe the widening plates put the mounting at 55mm which is within the mounting plate so that isn't a concern.

  4. #754
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    South Lake Tahoe
    Posts
    3,612
    I use blue thread locker on the two (per binding) forward pressure screws on my plums. Do I need to reapply the thread locker each time I adjust the foward pressure for a new BSL? Or can I get by apply the thread locker only once every3-4 times?

  5. #755
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Chamonix
    Posts
    1,012
    Quote Originally Posted by ARpowhound View Post
    For those of you that have replaced the heel unit on to another "stem". Do you have to pull the DIN screw all the way out? Or can you leave it just started in the threads?
    No, you can back it out almost all the way then pull it off the posts. Removing it completely isn't a problem, just be carefull when you screw it back in.

    Quote Originally Posted by Leisg View Post
    I am thinking to get the wide lifter plate add ons for guides and not use the heel piece and just use the toe piece to get a better ramp angle. This would seem to be the same as the yak in terms of ramp angle which is the main benefiting am looking for. Would the collective see any potential problems with this?
    I use Sollyfit toe plates to achieve this. Jondrums mentioned recently he'll sell just the toes for this purpose.

  6. #756
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Amherst, Mass.
    Posts
    4,684
    Quote Originally Posted by Leisg View Post
    I am thinking to get the wide lifter plate add ons for guides and not use the heel piece and just use the toe piece to get a better ramp angle. This would seem to be the same as the yak in terms of ramp angle which is the main benefiting am looking for. Would the collective see any potential problems with this?
    Why bother with all that if your [only?] goal is to reduce delta?
    I cut custom shims in 1/4" LDPE from SmallParts.com -- weight per pair was 1.2 oz, plus the weight differential of longer screws at less than half an ounce per pair.
    Mo' skimo here: NE Rando Race Series

  7. #757
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Chamonix
    Posts
    1,012
    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan S. View Post
    Why bother with all that if your [only?] goal is to reduce delta?
    True. On my setup I wanted to both reduce ramp and give a wider screw footprint into the ski. Jondums' plates are the prefect solution.

  8. #758
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    SF
    Posts
    350
    Quote Originally Posted by ARpowhound View Post
    For those of you that have replaced the heel unit on to another "stem". Do you have to pull the DIN screw all the way out? Or can you leave it just started in the threads? I bought new base plates & heel supports. I need to switch my heels over to the new base & stem. Thx.
    Regarding Dynafits:

    No, you have to remove it completely, plus the spring set, and then pull out the plastic thimble enough to allow the heel unit to be pulled off.

    Starting the large "DIN" screw is easy if you do the following: crouch down so the assembly is at eye level, insert the big screw thing making sure it's aligned correctly (visually), and turn COUNTER CLOCKWISE till the threads align. Then screw in as per normal. I've done this hundreds of times and not stripped the plastic.

  9. #759
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    here and there
    Posts
    18,583
    Slobmonster

    Would you mind posting a procedure for this?

    I have all the parts but have not gotten around to it as I did not want to mess up the clamps.

    I also have the upgraded toe levers to install. That seems straight forward, need the proper sized punch to drive out the pin?
    watch out for snakes

  10. #760
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Summit Park UT
    Posts
    1,096
    anyone heard any updates about Plum brakes? I've emailed them asking twice, but no response.

  11. #761
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    SF
    Posts
    350
    Quote Originally Posted by scottyb View Post
    Slobmonster

    Would you mind posting a procedure for this?
    Re Dynafit heel unit, all you need to know is here: http://www.wildsnow.com/articles/dyn...e-install.html

    It's not that complicated.

  12. #762
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Eburg
    Posts
    13,243
    "All you need to know re heel unit" should also include this link: http://www.wildsnow.com/articles/dyn...breakdown.html

    +1 @ slob re avoiding cross-threading the lateral din cup screw.

  13. #763
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    here and there
    Posts
    18,583
    Mucho Thanko!
    watch out for snakes

  14. #764
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    59
    Quote Originally Posted by wilcox510 View Post
    anyone heard any updates about Plum brakes? I've emailed them asking twice, but no response.
    When I asked in August this was the response I got

    "I can only tell you that no brake available before Xmas.
    width are less than 85, 85-100, 100-115."

  15. #765
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    here and there
    Posts
    18,583
    Thanks guys, the base replacement was easy.

    I do have to ask about the toe lever replacement. The new toe levers come with 2 each small screws, 4 total.
    Last edited by scottyb; 12-01-2012 at 11:30 AM.
    watch out for snakes

  16. #766
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    here and there
    Posts
    18,583
    Went to Tractor Supply and bought a $10 pin punch kit, tapped out pin enough to remove the toe lever and replaced with the new one no problem. Tapped pin back in and used the punch to "peen" around the pin hole to close the hole edge back up.

    Mixed a bubble pack of epoxy to coat all of the pin holes on the toe lever and the wing pins just to have some added pin retention.

    Guess the 4 screws are extra base hold fasteners for the boot fine adjustment.

    Even figured out how to use the leashes that come with the Plums.
    watch out for snakes

  17. #767
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    South Lake Tahoe
    Posts
    3,612
    Slobmonster, are your new toe levers the black ones? What is the upgrade/how are they different from the old ones? I missed that in this thread.

  18. #768
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    here and there
    Posts
    18,583
    I will chime in.

    My new toe levers have a wider black lever and the fulcrum part is not machined out like the original. Looks much stronger as some folks had the old toe levers crack.

    Another tip is I used a short peice of 2x4 to "mount" the toe binding onto thus making it much easier to drive the pin out with punch and hammer.
    watch out for snakes

  19. #769
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Rogers Pass
    Posts
    385
    Have any of you guys replaced Plums with Dynafits on the same ski? I'm contemplating taking my Guide's off my current ski and putting them on a new lightweight ski, and putting a pair of FT vertical or radical into the same holes (since mounting pattern is the same). Would this work, or are the positioning of the toe/heel pins different between the two systems with the same mount location?

  20. #770
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Socal
    Posts
    37
    endure: maybe take a look at installing some inserts to make you life easier. Regardless, you can use the same hole pattern for Plums and Dynafit Verticals no problem as long as you realize you need a 5th hole for the Dynafit toe if it hasn't been drilled already. Radicals have a different hole pattern in the toe, same pattern in the heel. You can make a Plum/Radical situation work if you go with 6 inserts for each toe area. I have a set of Plums and Vertical FTs that I move across many skis that all have inserts. Obviously you'll need to check your heel gap and horizontal heel pin to heel tech fitting alignment when you do the move.

  21. #771
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    1,036
    Radicals have different toe holes. I'd either go inserts or maybe plates.

  22. #772
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Rogers Pass
    Posts
    385
    Right on, thanks. Inserts would make sense since the holes are already drilled.. I may get to that at some point! Does the plastic piece that looks like carbon of FT radical/vertical mess this idea up or can you fine-tune its location? I ask because there are ribs every ~1cm on them, so I am wondering if they need to 'click' together or if you can slide the toe/heel portion of the plastic over each other without an issue. If they did need to 'click' together every 1cm, then I am fairly sure that my current mount position would not line up with what the plastic pieces would require, as it would be shear luck if they did.

    bern: vertical FT/ST would work for hole pattern though correct?

  23. #773
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Socal
    Posts
    37
    The carbon-y beauty strip just slides right under the heel piece, continuously, so no problem there. It does absolutely diddly-squat for your rig as far as I can tell. It doesn't attach to the heel unit in any way besides sliding under it. You'll notice its a flimsy piece of plastic as soon as you hold it in your hand. A lot of people just break that thing off at the toe and toss it for maximum style points.

  24. #774
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Rogers Pass
    Posts
    385
    Beauty; appreciate the help! Vertical FT's it is, possibly with some inserts if I have the time. Still love the Guides, but feel they will be better on some Trab's than the Opus

  25. #775
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    South Lake Tahoe
    Posts
    3,612
    Have they fixed the base plate problem on the vert ft? When they first came out the toe base plate was narrower than on other dynas and the toe wings were cracking because of the longer levers. Dyna came out with power? plates? As an after market fix, or you could just use st base plates. I would get the st unless u need 12 din.

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