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  1. #1
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    Multi-gauge mounting drill bit question

    I usually mount all my own skis. This year I will skiing on Armada JJ's and ANT's. The factory recommended drill bit is multi-gauge. 3.5/4.1 x 9.5. Does anybody know where I can purchase one of these. I've looked everywhere, and I'd like to use the one if possible. None of the ski shops I've checked have them.

  2. #2
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  3. #3
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    If I can't find a multi gauge I will, but I'd like to use one if at all possible. It's branded as the G1 stepdown system if that helps anybody.

  4. #4
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    one idea is to get a 3.5 and a 4.1 like this, and re-adjust the depth stop on the 4.1.

  5. #5
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    Dude, neither of those skis have metal. Just drill a 3.5. Its easier.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by RolexJr View Post
    The factory recommended drill bit is multi-gauge. 3.5/4.1 x 9.5.
    HUH?

    where are you getting this multigage rec from? Did somebody @ armada say so?

    If it am understanding you correctly, your skis are stamped with the above. I read that to mean use either a 3.5mm OR 4.1mm. No metal in em so go 3.5mm.

  7. #7
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    FTR: Mounting Drill Bits
    * The general rule on drill bit sizes is 3.5mm for non-metal skis and 4.1 for metal. There are exceptions, such as a metal binding plate in a non-metal ski, carbon fiber top sheets, etc
    * By CE regulation, all current skis have the recommended drill size printed on the ski, either in the mounting area, on the adjacent sidewall or on the tail with the ski dimensions.
    * The minimum depth for a screw for a binding mount is 6mm/1/4". Measure the screw less the binding thickness will provide you minimum drill tip length.
    * Make sure this will not exceed the thickness of the ski or snow board.
    * The excess depth of a hole deeper than the length of screw will be filled with the glue.

    SVST Shop quality drills are available in the following sizes:

    • L 3.5mm x 7.5mm
    • L 3.5mm x 9.5mm
    • L 3.5mm x 14mm Nordic
    • L 4.1mm x 7.5mm
    • L 4.1mm x 9.5mm
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

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  8. #8
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    Is there any foam in the core of the ski?

    I find 4.1mm works better than 3.5mm with foam cored skis.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shorty_J View Post
    Is there any foam in the core of the ski?
    Not in those models, no.

  10. #10
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    just get yerself a drill bit and a bottle of wine

    drink the bottle of wine BUT save the cork

    drill down thru the center of the cork

    move the drill in/out in the chuck depending on how deep you wana drill

  11. #11
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    * Make sure this will not exceed the thickness of the ski or snow board.
    Sage advice...

  12. #12
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    Not sure about the multi-gauge, but I usually step down in sizes for skis with metal anyways. I drill them to full depth with a 3.5mm, then go back and drill out the top ~2mm (basically just through the top sheet and metal) with a 4.1mm. I figure that gives the screw a bit more grab through the majority of the hole, and it only adds a minute or so to the process.

    So, back on topic, you can effectively drill the ski with multiple gauges without a special bit, if you so desire. If the skis are all wood, I'd just drill them 3.5mm and not worry about it.

  13. #13
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    do those stepped bits take care of the volcano that you get around the base of a screw which can prevent a binding ?

    I usually take a 3/8 ths bit and put a little chamfer by hand into the top skin

  14. #14
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    Buy both bits. With the 4.1 mm bit, make some plastic washers/spacers that you can pop onto it, leaving about 2 mm exposed.

    Drill the pattern with the 3.5 mm bit, tap the junk out, drill again with your shortened 4.1 mm bit.

    Basically, you have just used a stepped bit.

    If you tap the holes JUST THROUGH THE TOPSHEET (metal or otherwise), and trim off the little hangnail that's left, you should not see volcanos.

  15. #15
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    Check out this binding mount thread on these issues and note:

    Since the iM82 has metal layers, tapping is required (this prevents the screws from separating the metal layers from the laminate construction when going in). I have actually taken to tapping all skis --metal layer or not -- because I think it makes for a cleaner mount, but it's really only needed for skis with metal layers. Anyhow, here's what my tap looks like.



    Line up the tap straight over each hole, and start twisting it in. I like to give 1-2 twists, then a quick reverse, then another 1-2 twists, then a reverse, and so on, until the tap just touches the bottom of the hole. In case you're wondering, the reverse twists help clear debris out of the tap so it cuts cleaner -- an old machinist's trick.



    When done tapping, you'll likely be left with a burr or raised edge around the hole opening. I like to trim this off with a sharp chisel. If you used a true binding bit when drilling holes, it probably created a slight countersink that offsets the burr.







    Once again, shake or vaccum out the holes. You want them perfectly clean at this point. Now it's time to screw in the bindings. Back off all the binding screws so that they barely poke through the bottoms of the bindings -- just enough to help locate the holes.

    Quote Originally Posted by slobmonster View Post
    Buy both bits. With the 4.1 mm bit, make some plastic washers/spacers that you can pop onto it, leaving about 2 mm exposed.

    Drill the pattern with the 3.5 mm bit, tap the junk out, drill again with your shortened 4.1 mm bit.

    Basically, you have just used a stepped bit.

    If you tap the holes JUST THROUGH THE TOPSHEET (metal or otherwise), and trim off the little hangnail that's left, you should not see volcanos.
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

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  16. #16
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    Thank you TGR for all the great threads, so jongs like me can mount their first pair of skis. No spinners, drill press made it a piece a cake. Glad I made a paper template last season when I took my Griffons off a pair of skis that I sold in Gear Swap. Triple measured everything and is prefect. Now to go to Happy Hour with the $50 I saved.
    Quote Originally Posted by leroy jenkins View Post
    I think you'd have an easier time understanding people if you remembered that 80% of them are fucking morons.
    That is why I like dogs, more than most people.

  17. #17
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    Kurk at Gull Ski in Missoula showed me the step down drill bit that armada supplied them the other day. Armada says it helps screw retention by 20-25 percent. He said Armada was having some binding pullout problems in the past. He also said he could order me one. I've had no problems with my JJs. Just remounted them the other day with a 3.5 bit. But I'm thinking I may have him mount my TSTs and get the new bit for the future

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by racesla View Post
    Kurk at Gull Ski in Missoula showed me the step down drill bit that armada supplied them the other day. Armada says it helps screw retention by 20-25 percent. He said Armada was having some binding pullout problems in the past. He also said he could order me one. I've had no problems with my JJs. Just remounted them the other day with a 3.5 bit. But I'm thinking I may have him mount my TSTs and get the new bit for the future
    Can you post an image and specs of the drill bit?
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

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  19. #19
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    does the / not just mean either/or?
    My Pipe Cleaners say 4.1 on them, but there is clearly no metal in them. Either/or should work, but for non-metal 3.5 is better.
    Or so I understand.
    In fact, when I remounted them, I'm pretty sure I just used a 3.5 and didn't tap (no metal).

    Whoops, just saw the post about the stepdown bit.
    Just go 3.5, it's fine.
    No longer stuck.

    Quote Originally Posted by stuckathuntermtn View Post
    Just an uneducated guess.

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