Ski RV's, who's sleeping in parking lots?

[altasnob]

Power banks are way more versatile than a custom built in unit. I have a 2000 Wh/2000W output Bluetti power bank that I use for my RV, camping with scouts, run a compressor for paddle boards wherever I want, etc.

They are versatile. And they are the direction that probably everyone is going. It's kind of like the debate between owning a laptop, or even just a smartphone, as your only personal computer or whether you need a high powered gamer desktop with six monitors. Do you want everything in a tidy little box or do you want all the components separate where you can upgrade each one individually over time. At this point, power banks still appeal to minimalist setups (like a Go Fast Camper setup) where as people building 100k van builds are still using separate components. Maybe we'll start seeing the 100k van build crowd use a removable lithium power bank that they can haul down to the beach to keep the beers cold. Or custom built power banks. Because after all, a power bank is just a battery with an outlet glued to the side.

[Trackhead]

Do you want everything in a tidy little box or do you want all the components separate where you can upgrade each one individually over time.

Tidy box is the appeal for me, don't have wires criss crossing from inverters to chargers to batteries etc. Hard to argue that they save a ton of space in a compartment that could easily be overrun by a traditional setup. And...they are multi-purpose. I could use one all over at our house, shed out back, driveway, whatever.

[altasnob]

Tidy box is the appeal for me, don't have wires criss crossing from inverters to chargers to batteries etc. Hard to argue that they save a ton of space in a compartment that could easily be overrun by a traditional setup. And...they are multi-purpose. I could use one all over at our house, shed out back, driveway, whatever.

Great. Another project. Buy one of those power packs and figure out how to power all your appliances in your camper from it. The gas heater, the lights, the fan, the fridge (the solar charge controller; I know you don't have solar, but you should, even if it is just a portable panel). Power everything by just drooping the power pack in and plugging in a single plug. I am sure this is being done but haven't seen it yet.

[sklar]

Great. Another project. Buy one of those power packs and figure out how to power all your appliances in your camper from it. The gas heater, the lights, the fan, the fridge (the solar charge controller; I know you don't have solar, but you should, even if it is just a portable panel). Power everything by just drooping the power pack in and plugging in a single plug. I am sure this is being done but haven't seen it yet.

In my tiny cabin, I have everything hard-wired back to a fuse box, then just one plug from the fuse box to my Goal Zero.

[Yukonrider]

All this talk of power management makes me want to stop by and say:

If you don't have a real battery monitor it is almost impossible to talk about usage and state of charge. I was very pleased with my Victron unit, they make one that is all Bluetooth now, get that and install it then you can see how various piece affect your state of charge, and adjust accordingly.

[Trackhead]

Great. Another project. Buy one of those power packs and figure out how to power all your appliances in your camper from it. The gas heater, the lights, the fan, the fridge (the solar charge controller; I know you don't have solar, but you should, even if it is just a portable panel). Power everything by just drooping the power pack in and plugging in a single plug. I am sure this is being done but haven't seen it yet.

Done. Plug main wire into 10 amp DC output on power station. That is more than enough amperage for my camper draw. Only time it might be questionable is on diesel heater start up when glow plug is on, but I've watched videos of these heaters doing fine on 10 amp DC output from power stations.

[altasnob]

In my tiny cabin, I have everything hard-wired back to a fuse box, then just one plug from the fuse box to my Goal Zero.

That's exactly what I'm talking about. But then it begs the question, why not just carry around a lithium battery with a little usb/dc outlet glued to the side.

A 91 amp hour Goal Zero costs $1,300. Costco occasionally sells 2 100 amp hour (so 200 amp hour) Lion lithium batteries for $1,400. This shows you how much "upcharge" is baked in to these power packs.

[Lurch]

They are a little more than just usb/dc output glued to the side. You have a built in inverter to get 120V20amp, convertor to get USB and 12v DC, solar charge controller, etc. https://www.bluettipower.com/product...-power-station

[Trackhead]

Build your own vs power bank.

2000w inverter (Renogy) = $306
2000w lipo (166 amp/h) = $500
Renogy Lithium charger = $230
DC to DC charger 20amp = $100

Total = $1136 (likely more for heavy gauge wiring etc)

Cost for comparable watt hour/inverter from Bluetti = $1399 (and comes with all charging ports, warranty, compact)

[beaterdit]

Build your own vs power bank.

2000w inverter (Renogy) = $306
2000w lipo (166 amp/h) = $500
Renogy Lithium charger = $230
DC to DC charger 20amp = $100

Total = $1136 (likely more for heavy gauge wiring etc)

Cost for comparable watt hour/inverter from Bluetti = $1399 (and comes with all charging ports, warranty, compact)

I was dreading the electrical setup for my new Van as I know next to nothing about this stuff. Current Van is pretty spartan and no aux electrical system, or heater. It's been great for what it is but didn't really feel like making a big investment into a $4K outdated RWD Van nearing 300K miles. The standalone units have always been appealing for this reason. When you put it like that though, it's a no-brainer. Sold!

Just got a VIN and build date for my new '23 Transit AWD, much excite! Now I can really start committing to the planning and equipment.

[Trackhead]

Just got a VIN and build date for my new '23 Transit AWD, much excite! Now I can really start committing to the planning and equipment.

My buddy is on that waiting list as well.

Yeah, I'm sure there are other nuances to the debate between power station vs. component build, would be interested in hearing other sides to the story.

[beaterdit]

My buddy is on that waiting list as well.

Yeah, I'm sure there are other nuances to the debate between power station vs. component build, would be interested in hearing other sides to the story.

Only thing I can't find is if it has a built in heater for cold temps. Van will have a heater but still, I'd like to be able to leave that off and be able to maintain the battery via shore power and/or solar while the van sits in the driveway, or just generally as needed. edit: Another plus; you can just bring the thing inside if you're home and not using it.

I'm interested in hearing other's experiences with all options too. Realistically though, the time I would spend learning and doing it all myself, and then the cost of getting backup when I fuck it up, or just straight-up paying someone else to do it all. It all adds up.

[Trackhead]

Also the power stations have the rad display with all relevant monitoring data, that's extra $$ to add to cost of self built system.

The problem of cold temps is the same with both self built and power station. Unless you get something like Battleborn with built in heating.

[beaterdit]

Looks like the next model up has significantly increased operating temp range, down to -4F, and it’s expandable. Might have a built in heater or something. I’ll have to message them when I get s chance. $200 more isn’t a big deal.

[altasnob]

Here's a van build that is using a power station for power. Granted, a $6k power station but looks like a great setup:

https://www.dwnshifters.com/blog/202...-in-your-build

Make sure the power station has a good warranty because unlike the diy separate component system, if something breaks will have to replace the whole thing.

[altasnob]

rad display with all relevant monitoring data

rad displays seems obsolete at this point. Most fancy components, like Victron stuff, has bluetooth and app on your phone so your fancy display for all your components is just your phone.

[Trackhead]

rad displays seems obsolete at this point. Most fancy components, like Victron stuff, has bluetooth and app on your phone so your fancy display for all your components is just your phone.

True, but you still need a battery monitor to get a display on your phone, which is still extra $$.

[Trackhead]

Weekend in camper and skiing. Parked at a rural hot springs. Ski, soak, sleep, repeat.




Camper clothes line. Diesel heater does a great job drying out wet swimsuits.

[Snow Dog]

That's something that's never addressed - where to hang wet stuff. A friend put a rod in the bathroom/shower which was perfect to hang wet gear. It had ducting from the furnace too.

[evdog]

Only thing I can't find is if it has a built in heater for cold temps. Van will have a heater but still, I'd like to be able to leave that off and be able to maintain the battery via shore power and/or solar while the van sits in the driveway, or just generally as needed. edit: Another plus; you can just bring the thing inside if you're home and not using it.

I'm interested in hearing other's experiences with all options too. Realistically though, the time I would spend learning and doing it all myself, and then the cost of getting backup when I fuck it up, or just straight-up paying someone else to do it all. It all adds up.

I went with a component build for my truck. Something like a Goal zero or Bluetti may have been simpler in theory, but if I recall the models that were available at the time lacked certain plug types which would have limited what solar panels I could use. And with my Super pacific camper I couldn't add any additional height to the truck or it wouldn't fit in the garage. So thin flex panels were my only option, which meant a component build would work best. At the time it was also about $1000 per 100Ah for a power station. The lights and a number of other things I would be connecting were all on 12v DC power which are easy to connect to a component system. It just seemed like it would go together better for a vehicle build. I also didn't have much use for a power station away from the truck, so no advantage there.

I had zero knowledge of electrical before putting my system together. Youtube came to the rescue. It turned out to be a lot simpler than I expected once you get the basics down. Check out Will Prowse' channel. He is very good at explaining solar/electrical systems and has some sample designs on his website that you can use. Go back to the earlier vids. He has a bunch labelled "Beginners Start Here". A few I watched:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fFHn_xoMsAs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cX4s-bxn4fs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IRRKHYwB3Uo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uobUwjCLfok
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TJBGbufexEM

The system I built was basically this but scaled down to a 100Ah lithium battery and 200W of solar. https://www.mobile-solarpower.com/si...-charging.html

Victron makes the gold standard battery monitor, but if you want to go ghetto like me, this does the same thing for $41

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...0?ie=UTF8&th=1

I have the same battery monitor. No bluetooth/app, but it does everything I need it to.

[SchralphMacchio]

That's something that's never addressed - where to hang wet stuff. A friend put a rod in the bathroom/shower which was perfect to hang wet gear. It had ducting from the furnace too.

That's what we do. Secondary tension rod right in the middle. We use both the main shower curtain rod and the tension rod (2 adults 2 kids of wet snow clothes). Bathroom fan open and exhausting 24/7 (MaxxFan Deluxe is the shit, lowest speed is only 0.1A @ 12VDC). Variable damper on the bathroom heat vent so that I can control heat loss vs drying speed.

[beaterdit]

I went with a component build for my truck. Something like a Goal zero or Bluetti may have been simpler in theory, but if I recall the models that were available at the time lacked certain plug types which would have limited what solar panels I could use. And with my Super pacific camper I couldn't add any additional height to the truck or it wouldn't fit in the garage. So thin flex panels were my only option, which meant a component build would work best. At the time it was also about $1000 per 100Ah for a power station. The lights and a number of other things I would be connecting were all on 12v DC power which are easy to connect to a component system. It just seemed like it would go together better for a vehicle build. I also didn't have much use for a power station away from the truck, so no advantage there.

I had zero knowledge of electrical before putting my system together. Youtube came to the rescue. It turned out to be a lot simpler than I expected once you get the basics down. Check out Will Prowse' channel. He is very good at explaining solar/electrical systems and has some sample designs on his website that you can use. Go back to the earlier vids. He has a bunch labelled "Beginners Start Here". A few I watched:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fFHn_xoMsAs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cX4s-bxn4fs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IRRKHYwB3Uo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uobUwjCLfok
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TJBGbufexEM

The system I built was basically this but scaled down to a 100Ah lithium battery and 200W of solar. https://www.mobile-solarpower.com/si...-charging.html


I have the same battery monitor. No bluetooth/app, but it does everything I need it to.

Thanks for this, great data point. Gonna check out those vids for sure. Three more days on the Bluetti Holiday sale.

[evdog]

Will has some videos on Bluetti and other power stations as well that would be well worth watching since you're considering those. His reviews are not biased by sponsorships since he makes money from people buying stuff using affiliate links, and he buys a lot of the stuff he tests.

[Trackhead]

Bathroom fan open and exhausting 24/7 (MaxxFan Deluxe is the shit, lowest speed is only 0.1A @ 12VDC). Variable damper on the bathroom heat vent so that I can control heat loss vs drying speed.

We bought a six speed reversible fan on Amazon for $130 that works amazing. So quiet on low and same, almost zero power draw.
RV Roof Vent Fan 6-Speed-Reversible https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B66Z77X6..._FGgRaQ8XOF3Ht

[SchralphMacchio]

Right on Trackhead.

It’s very wet here, so the biggest thing for me with the MaxxFan Deluxe is the integrated rain shield that allows us to keep the fan going while it’s raining or snowing, while camping or at home. When we get home from a trip and I hook up to shore power, I immediately run an electric heater inside the cabin and run the fan exhaust on high speed because we have so much wet crap that accumulates in the cabin over a ski or shoulder season camping trip (I also leave our snow covered skis in the under bed storage during the work week, but our bed platform has gas lift springs and I point the heater fan right into the opening) - and I don’t have to worry about whether it’s going to rain while I’m drying out the cabin. Hell, sometimes when it’s dry outside I leave the vent cover open while towing just to help dry out the cabin interior!

On that note, we also have the Froli travel platform under our main mattress, so no worry about wet skis being under a moist mattress. Zero condensation or mold problems there.