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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Posts
    1,335

    Ti BB threading woes

    Bought a fancy new Ti hardtail and started building it (will post pics once complete)

    Threaded drive-side XTR BB cup in by hand no problem. Go to install non-drive side and it won't go in (by hand, no tools used yet) beyond about one thread. I've had plenty of experience with external BBs, but never had one so sticky, especially on a super nice expensive frame. So I'm justifiably nervous.

    Next steps after work today are to find a shop that can chase this thing (ordered direct from Lynskey). I had an older Truvative GXP BB sitting around and that threaded in a bit further than the XTR, but not much.

    Any other suggestions or thoughts from the collective? (Marshall, gravitylover etc....)

    Just so this thread isn't devoid of any stoke, couple of self-portraits. 7 Springs 24hour relay race last year and another from a local riding spot.
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    lcc
    Posts
    12,495
    you need to go to a shop that has the real deal campy thread chaser. not the crappy park one. the real campy one. you need to make sure they know how to use it (1/2 turn tighter, back off 1/4 turn, 1/2 turn tighter, back off 1/4 turn) to clear the filings and not damage the thread or overheat the metal or tool, and that they will use copious amounts of cutting solution. ti is super hard, so chasing the threads is a total pain in the ass and hard work, and causes alot of wear on a really expensive tool, so be prepared to pay for the work (or call manufacturer and be prepared to ship it back, have them do it, and ship it to you again).

    trying to cram an aluminum cup in will not work. you will just wreck the alloy. its softer than the bb shell.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Posts
    1,335
    Quote Originally Posted by marshalolson View Post
    you need to go to a shop that has the real deal campy thread chaser. not the crappy park one. the real campy one. you need to make sure they know how to use it (1/2 turn tighter, back off 1/4 turn, 1/2 turn tighter, back off 1/4 turn) to clear the filings and not damage the thread or overheat the metal or tool, and that they will use copious amounts of cutting solution. ti is super hard, so chasing the threads is a total pain in the ass and hard work, and causes alot of wear on a really expensive tool, so be prepared to pay for the work (or call manufacturer and be prepared to ship it back, have them do it, and ship it to you again).

    trying to cram an aluminum cup in will not work. you will just wreck the alloy. its softer than the bb shell.
    Thanks Marshall, good information to know re: Campy vs Park chasing tool. There is at least one shop locally that is very competent, I'll call to make sure they have the Campy tool.

    Still wondering why this is an issue in the first place though. I've sent a "what should i do email" to the company in addition.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    lcc
    Posts
    12,495
    i should say you don't HAVE to use the campy tool, but well... it is a way nicer tool, cuts better, and well... its the sort of thing that separates a sweet shop from a decent shop.

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