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  1. #51
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Middlebury, VT
    Posts
    1,992
    Just did my first set of installs with these inserts (I will be doing 4 more installs shortly). Went fine, no issues. Didn't have a drill press, just paid attention. Even used a short cure (4 min, it's what I had on hand) epoxy, working time was fine to do 3-4 inserts at a shot. Very pleased.

    PL, what happened to the fastener chart on the website? Am I an idiot for missing this? I know I found it once, and ordered using the McMaster part #s (super cool, thanks for that...), but now I can't find it again.
    "I know you believe you understand what you think I said, but I am not sure you realize that what you heard is not what I meant."- Alan Greenspan

  2. #52
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    49
    Quote Originally Posted by weasel1 View Post
    PL, what happened to the fastener chart on the website? Am I an idiot for missing this? I know I found it once, and ordered using the McMaster part #s (super cool, thanks for that...), but now I can't find it again.
    Ditto ...

  3. #53
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Zur Scharfen Ecke
    Posts
    348
    ^^^Done, check out the download page for the reference table. It is still pretty weak but I'm working on it. Would love input from people.

    PL
    I got 99 problems but this pitch aint one

  4. #54
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    South Lake Tahoe
    Posts
    3,612
    PL, I can't get to the "Instalation" page from your Quiver Killer home page, can you fix that. I don't think any of the other links to any subsidiary pages are working either

  5. #55
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Zur Scharfen Ecke
    Posts
    348
    ^^^seems to be working fine for me???
    I got 99 problems but this pitch aint one

  6. #56
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    South Lake Tahoe
    Posts
    3,612
    Its working for me now too.

    PL, do you have anyone you could recommend to do the install in Tahoe/Reno?

  7. #57
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Mexitana
    Posts
    2,474
    Quote Originally Posted by jondrums View Post
    ^^ If it works go for it!
    I'd suggest button heads because they have a wider head and the same allen wrench as the flatheads.

    I've found it nearly impossible to install the very front toe piece screw unless the head is smaller diameter. I guess your mileage will vary.
    well the front screws did not work for those comforts that I bought from mcmaster. They came loose while skinning. I dunno what happened, I guess they bottomed out on the insert and yes the head is too big. Guess I will buy from you.

    Puder what ever I told you on screw and part #'s for the comforts is most likely wrong, sorry, i suck.

  8. #58
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    SF
    Posts
    350
    Quote Originally Posted by harpo-the-skier View Post
    PL, do you have anyone you could recommend to do the install in Tahoe/Reno?
    I've installed several sets out of the shop I work for in Berkeley. In case you ever get down to the Bay Area...

  9. #59
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    South Lake Tahoe
    Posts
    3,612
    Quote Originally Posted by lobstahmeatwad View Post
    well the front screws did not work for those comforts that I bought from mcmaster. They came loose while skinning. I dunno what happened, I guess they bottomed out on the insert and yes the head is too big. Guess I will buy from you.

    Puder what ever I told you on screw and part #'s for the comforts is most likely wrong, sorry, i suck.
    Does anyone have up to date info on what screws will work for Puder Luder inserts and Dynafit Vertical ST and Vertical FT12 bindings?

  10. #60
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    North Vancouver
    Posts
    1,244
    Quote Originally Posted by harpo-the-skier View Post
    Does anyone have up to date info on what screws will work for Puder Luder inserts and Dynafit Vertical ST and Vertical FT12 bindings?
    See post #16 in this thread:
    [ame="https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/showthread.php?t=192502"]Dynafit Screw length? - Teton Gravity Research Forums[/ame]

  11. #61
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    sfbay
    Posts
    2,179
    Comfort bindings will require:
    10 of M5x16 flathead for the toes
    8 of M5x8 button head for the heels

    Vertical and FT (including FT12) bindings will require:
    10 of M5x16 flathead for the toes
    8 of M5x12 flathead for the heels
    You can get these screws from McMaster Carr if you're willing to order them in vast quantities. I also sell individuals on my site below.

    The very front hole on the toe-peices requires a smaller diameter head than the standard M5 flathead. I sell modified flathead screws that fit. You'll need two.

  12. #62
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Dystopia
    Posts
    21,053
    Quote Originally Posted by jondrums View Post
    You can get these screws from McMaster Carr if you're willing to order them in vast quantities. I also sell individuals on my site below.

    The very front hole on the toe-peices requires a smaller diameter head than the standard M5 flathead. I sell modified flathead screws that fit. You'll need two.
    $14.25 for a set of screws for salomon? that blows.

    not your fault, I know,
    . . .

  13. #63
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    sfbay
    Posts
    2,179
    ^^ that's because there's so many models of Sally bindings. I haven't taken the time to split out the kits by model number, but it'll be less than half that $$ when I do. In the mean time, if you want to PM me your binding model number, then I can figure out what you should order.

  14. #64
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    430
    Has anyone come up with the right McMaster part numbers for the M5 screws to be used with Tyrolia bindings?

  15. #65
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    OW
    Posts
    653
    Quote Originally Posted by Wild4umlauts View Post
    Has anyone come up with the right McMaster part numbers for the M5 screws to be used with Tyrolia bindings?
    OK, I haven't mounted these with inserts but I did happen to be mounting a pair of MOJO15s today normally so I made a few measurements. It looks like you need the following:

    Toepiece fronts: M5 X 22 button head (2X) - (91239A242)
    Toepiece rears: M5 X 18 button head (2X) - (91239A241)

    Heelpiece fronts: M5 X 18 button head (2X) - (91239A241)
    Heelpiece rears: M5 X 20 button head (2X) - (92095A214)

    On the heelpiece rears, the 20 may be a bit too long so you may have to grind a bit off. You may be able to get by with the 18s on these as well. I tried to get 6 mm of threads extending below the base of the bindings for these bolts.

    Double check the part numbers to make sure they match the description.

  16. #66
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    sfbay
    Posts
    2,179
    ^^ you're probably going to be sorry if you use those part numbers - they're black-oxide steel, which WILL rust.

    6mm is too much thread for PL's inserts, so go with 2mm less than those numbers and you'll be better off.

  17. #67
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
    Posts
    1,289
    Quote Originally Posted by jondrums View Post
    ....6mm is too much thread for PL's inserts, so go with 2mm less than those numbers and you'll be better off.
    Are you saying that 4mm thread length below the underside of the binding is sufficient? I've been using 6mm or very close to.
    Last edited by Spyderjon; 11-11-2010 at 04:39 PM.

  18. #68
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    en route
    Posts
    598
    does anyone have pictures of a ski with inserts for dukes and FT12s?

  19. #69
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    522
    Or pics with Dynafit and Rossi axials (the storm trooper 14's)?

  20. #70
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Somewhere else
    Posts
    5,676
    Just print out the paper templates, line them up on a 2x4 and see what kind of tolerances you have.

  21. #71
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    3,004
    What's the official minimum C-C spacing? I'm seeing suggested numbers from 1.25cm to 2cm, and a PX/Dynafit combination gets me at about 1.3-1.4 C-C in the toe. Sufficient? Insufficient?
    "High risers are for people with fused ankles, jongs and dudes who are too fat to see their dick or touch their toes.
    Prove me wrong."
    -I've seen black diamonds!

    throughpolarizedeyes.com

  22. #72
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    SF
    Posts
    350
    If you're sweating over hole proximity, please take note of the following:

    SVST Wood Hole Plugs 100 count
    http://www.svst.com/ItemForm.aspx?item=WHP100

    Instead of using the plastic/PTEX plugs that you might find, use the wood plugs instead. Fill holes with glue, tap in plugs, wait, chop off with Dremel tool, flatten with a Sureform blade.

    I have done this for hundreds of pairs of skis, with no issues. IMO the proximity issue is moot when the wood plugs end up making the ski more structurally sound.

  23. #73
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    3,004
    I'm not worrying about inserts close to plugged holes, I'm worrying about inserts close to other inserts.

    Good to know for future hole-plugging applications though.
    "High risers are for people with fused ankles, jongs and dudes who are too fat to see their dick or touch their toes.
    Prove me wrong."
    -I've seen black diamonds!

    throughpolarizedeyes.com

  24. #74
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Sun Valley, ID
    Posts
    2,527
    Can you use the same screws for the inserts as for dynadukes?

  25. #75
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    bovine university
    Posts
    6

    Marker Jester

    You need the following screws for mounting a pair of Marker Jesters:

    Toepiece fronts: M5 X 8 cylinder head (4X)
    Toepiece rears: M5 X 18 flat head (4X)

    Heelpiece: M5 X 10 flat head (8X)

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