Results 51 to 75 of 100
-
10-22-2010, 02:46 PM #51
Just did my first set of installs with these inserts (I will be doing 4 more installs shortly). Went fine, no issues. Didn't have a drill press, just paid attention. Even used a short cure (4 min, it's what I had on hand) epoxy, working time was fine to do 3-4 inserts at a shot. Very pleased.
PL, what happened to the fastener chart on the website? Am I an idiot for missing this? I know I found it once, and ordered using the McMaster part #s (super cool, thanks for that...), but now I can't find it again."I know you believe you understand what you think I said, but I am not sure you realize that what you heard is not what I meant."- Alan Greenspan
-
10-22-2010, 05:40 PM #52whatever
- Join Date
- Jan 2009
- Posts
- 49
-
10-23-2010, 08:56 AM #53Registered User
- Join Date
- Oct 2008
- Location
- Zur Scharfen Ecke
- Posts
- 348
^^^Done, check out the download page for the reference table. It is still pretty weak but I'm working on it. Would love input from people.
PLI got 99 problems but this pitch aint one
-
10-23-2010, 11:32 AM #54Registered User
- Join Date
- Apr 2004
- Location
- South Lake Tahoe
- Posts
- 3,612
PL, I can't get to the "Instalation" page from your Quiver Killer home page, can you fix that. I don't think any of the other links to any subsidiary pages are working either
-
10-23-2010, 11:35 AM #55Registered User
- Join Date
- Oct 2008
- Location
- Zur Scharfen Ecke
- Posts
- 348
^^^seems to be working fine for me???
I got 99 problems but this pitch aint one
-
10-23-2010, 12:25 PM #56Registered User
- Join Date
- Apr 2004
- Location
- South Lake Tahoe
- Posts
- 3,612
Its working for me now too.
PL, do you have anyone you could recommend to do the install in Tahoe/Reno?
-
10-30-2010, 06:02 PM #57
well the front screws did not work for those comforts that I bought from mcmaster. They came loose while skinning. I dunno what happened, I guess they bottomed out on the insert and yes the head is too big. Guess I will buy from you.
Puder what ever I told you on screw and part #'s for the comforts is most likely wrong, sorry, i suck.
-
10-30-2010, 08:30 PM #58slobmonster
- Join Date
- Oct 2006
- Location
- SF
- Posts
- 350
-
11-07-2010, 05:48 PM #59Registered User
- Join Date
- Apr 2004
- Location
- South Lake Tahoe
- Posts
- 3,612
-
11-07-2010, 06:40 PM #60
-
11-07-2010, 10:50 PM #61Comfort bindings will require:
10 of M5x16 flathead for the toes
8 of M5x8 button head for the heels
Vertical and FT (including FT12) bindings will require:
10 of M5x16 flathead for the toes
8 of M5x12 flathead for the heels
The very front hole on the toe-peices requires a smaller diameter head than the standard M5 flathead. I sell modified flathead screws that fit. You'll need two.
-
11-08-2010, 04:18 PM #62
-
11-10-2010, 01:10 AM #63
^^ that's because there's so many models of Sally bindings. I haven't taken the time to split out the kits by model number, but it'll be less than half that $$ when I do. In the mean time, if you want to PM me your binding model number, then I can figure out what you should order.
-
11-10-2010, 05:46 PM #64
Has anyone come up with the right McMaster part numbers for the M5 screws to be used with Tyrolia bindings?
-
11-11-2010, 07:54 AM #65
OK, I haven't mounted these with inserts but I did happen to be mounting a pair of MOJO15s today normally so I made a few measurements. It looks like you need the following:
Toepiece fronts: M5 X 22 button head (2X) - (91239A242)
Toepiece rears: M5 X 18 button head (2X) - (91239A241)
Heelpiece fronts: M5 X 18 button head (2X) - (91239A241)
Heelpiece rears: M5 X 20 button head (2X) - (92095A214)
On the heelpiece rears, the 20 may be a bit too long so you may have to grind a bit off. You may be able to get by with the 18s on these as well. I tried to get 6 mm of threads extending below the base of the bindings for these bolts.
Double check the part numbers to make sure they match the description.
-
11-11-2010, 09:39 AM #66
^^ you're probably going to be sorry if you use those part numbers - they're black-oxide steel, which WILL rust.
6mm is too much thread for PL's inserts, so go with 2mm less than those numbers and you'll be better off.
-
11-11-2010, 05:28 PM #67
Last edited by Spyderjon; 11-11-2010 at 05:39 PM.
-
11-11-2010, 06:02 PM #68
does anyone have pictures of a ski with inserts for dukes and FT12s?
-
11-14-2010, 12:03 PM #69
Or pics with Dynafit and Rossi axials (the storm trooper 14's)?
-
11-14-2010, 12:30 PM #70
Just print out the paper templates, line them up on a 2x4 and see what kind of tolerances you have.
-
11-16-2010, 02:25 PM #71Registered User
- Join Date
- Feb 2007
- Location
- Colorado
- Posts
- 3,009
What's the official minimum C-C spacing? I'm seeing suggested numbers from 1.25cm to 2cm, and a PX/Dynafit combination gets me at about 1.3-1.4 C-C in the toe. Sufficient? Insufficient?
"High risers are for people with fused ankles, jongs and dudes who are too fat to see their dick or touch their toes.
Prove me wrong."
-I've seen black diamonds!
throughpolarizedeyes.com
-
11-16-2010, 02:33 PM #72slobmonster
- Join Date
- Oct 2006
- Location
- SF
- Posts
- 350
If you're sweating over hole proximity, please take note of the following:
SVST Wood Hole Plugs 100 count
http://www.svst.com/ItemForm.aspx?item=WHP100
Instead of using the plastic/PTEX plugs that you might find, use the wood plugs instead. Fill holes with glue, tap in plugs, wait, chop off with Dremel tool, flatten with a Sureform blade.
I have done this for hundreds of pairs of skis, with no issues. IMO the proximity issue is moot when the wood plugs end up making the ski more structurally sound.
-
11-16-2010, 02:36 PM #73Registered User
- Join Date
- Feb 2007
- Location
- Colorado
- Posts
- 3,009
I'm not worrying about inserts close to plugged holes, I'm worrying about inserts close to other inserts.
Good to know for future hole-plugging applications though."High risers are for people with fused ankles, jongs and dudes who are too fat to see their dick or touch their toes.
Prove me wrong."
-I've seen black diamonds!
throughpolarizedeyes.com
-
11-16-2010, 04:19 PM #74Registered User
- Join Date
- Dec 2009
- Location
- Sun Valley, ID
- Posts
- 2,547
Can you use the same screws for the inserts as for dynadukes?
-
11-20-2010, 09:53 AM #75
Marker Jester
You need the following screws for mounting a pair of Marker Jesters:
Toepiece fronts: M5 X 8 cylinder head (4X)
Toepiece rears: M5 X 18 flat head (4X)
Heelpiece: M5 X 10 flat head (8X)
Bookmarks