Anyone else get some today...?

**dfinn** · 04-22-2015, 01:06 PM

Mostly flat with some waist to chest high this morning at the point @ san O. Wouldn't really say I "got some" but I was out there. Around through sat, beers on me if anyone is around.

**Ottime** · 04-22-2015, 11:25 PM

Fun an lumpy spring time swell out there today. Long, slow, warp pets running just a touch overhead today. Starting to get my arms back. Hope this run of pseudo swell continues.

**strawjack** · 04-24-2015, 07:23 AM

Ott, what suit are you wearing this time of year?

**Ottime** · 04-24-2015, 04:28 PM

I have a 2yr old rip curl e-bomb 4/3. It would be super warm if still new, but it has lots leaks. And boots.

Been a little cooler recently with upwelling, but it was a super warm winter. Never bothered pulling out the hooded Patagucci R3.

In short, basic middle of line 4/3 almost year round. Something slightly beefier for really cold winter days, especially when on the guns and you might be sitting for a whole.

3/2s are fine for the town in summer in typical years.

**strawjack** · 04-24-2015, 04:34 PM

Right on, thanks

**whitekingsalmon** · 04-29-2015, 09:43 PM

Huge swell coming to pavones..... But I just left and now in hawaiiiiiiiiiiii

**Ottime** · 04-29-2015, 10:43 PM

And still no one cares. Yet you still post. Got any pics you can load from teh Interwebz bro?

**whitekingsalmon** · 04-29-2015, 11:00 PM

I'm not your bro....... Kook

**Ottime** · 04-30-2015, 09:25 AM

Really? Aw, shucks. Guess I win then.

**Ottime** · 05-02-2015, 08:45 AM

Anything showing down south yet?

**PowerWhore7** · 05-02-2015, 08:54 AM

There has been some fun peaky surf the last couple days but nothing special yet...I am loading up the rig and heading south to la playa for this swell. Will post up what I find when I get back

**Ottime** · 05-02-2015, 11:08 AM

Yeah, been plenty of sizable Windswell up this way this past week from 6-12'@8-12s. I'm looking for the souths that are headed this way

**Ottime** · 05-04-2015, 08:59 AM

South is showin solid up here. Too bad there is still some 4-5'@10-11s from the NW out there. The 4@25 south yesterday is just what greydog wants but not so much the wind swell coming across it. Town and the points I imagine were pretty damn nice even with the SW eddy. But even the crappy spot no one surfs had 15 cars at it. Ended up at a shore pounds beach break. A lot was just closed out, but when the cross up worked properly my three best barrels of the year were scored. Holy fucking pits. Speaking of which, anyone happen to crack out Fullers yesterday?

**strawjack** · 05-04-2015, 09:43 AM

Just got back last night. My son brought his board and we stopped at quite a few known breaks on the way up the coast. SB area was pretty flat, but moving on up to Pismo there was some decent chest/head coming thru. Over at Morrow it was pretty heavy, easily dbl overhead for EC standards. Saw a couple guys ripping the shit out of it. Spent the night in big sur, but didn't look at any breaks. Got to SC and he hit the Hook which was pretty small, but fun. The next morning he went for his first ever session at Steamers and had a blast. Some head high sets came thru and it was forecasted to build thru the day. There was a young girl out there just tearing it up and I later found out her name is Eden Edwards from this guy taking pics http://www.santacruzwaves.com/galler.../#!prettyPhoto . She was pissed as some dude dropped in on her...no bueno! My son was in awe of her. The photog posted up one pic of him also. He did not surf well (his words) as I think he was a little intimidated.
We went back out in the evening and there were significantly bigger sets coming in and the guy in the red suit was by far the best surfer I've ever seen and we think it was Nat Young. I snapped one shitty phone pic

on his last ride, but it was really cool to see a guy of his caliber just free surfing.

**Ottime** · 05-04-2015, 01:35 PM

Shit. Didn't know you were in town. Let me know next time and I'll take your son out to some lesser known breaks. Plenty of uncrowded surf to be had. It was empty up the coast Saturday afternoon. I surfed solo on a bowly left hand reef.

**Ottime** · 05-04-2015, 01:57 PM

And Nat is always fun to watch. Pretty nice guy as well.

**strawjack** · 05-04-2015, 03:13 PM

Originally Posted by Ottime

Shit. Didn't know you were in town. Let me know next time and I'll take your son out to some lesser known breaks. Plenty of uncrowded surf to be had. It was empty up the coast Saturday afternoon. I surfed solo on a bowly left hand reef.

And Nat is always fun to watch. Pretty nice guy as well.

Yeah, I actually thought about it, but I didn't want to bug you. We were on weird schedule with college visits and just family vaca stuff too.

I he ends up going to school there I will definitely touch base next time I'm there. Thanks man! ...and that Cowells break looks oh so nice for a kook like me!

**whitekingsalmon** · 05-04-2015, 04:11 PM

Brother says pavones is double to triple overhead.... Friend that lives on a ranch at jalama in Cali says its pumping double overhead..., here in Hawaii head high....

**Piggity** · 05-04-2015, 06:00 PM

Meanwhile in Puerto

**Ottime** · 05-05-2015, 07:39 AM

And I thought the beach break I hit up on Sunday had a puerto like feel. But I guess not so much.

Strawjack, Cowells was all time about a month ago with solid sand running from the hotel to the statue. Still in good shape, but the sand bar is a bit depleted. I've had a few sessions out there when it did not feel worth it to go grovel on a short board, and I plan to get my son out there this summer. Such a killer longboard wave out there right now. But it is totally dependent on having a good sand bar built up. Will have to see what this swell does to it.

Winds came up yesterday driving everyone back into town. Bummer to see such a nice swell get run over by local wind chop and short period ribs.

**robnow** · 05-05-2015, 08:44 AM

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Got a little skunked the last couple weeks at Macaronis, both swell and weather. Still such a fun and user friendly wave, easily my favorite anywhere.

Any body know Macas and any recommendations for something somewhat similar (I know nothing compares) MUCH closer to North America. I've been recommended Nic and specifically stating at Hacienda Iguana to surf Playa Colorado.

Pretty much relegated to the fact this trip that I will forever be a kook, such a slow learning curve. That's the beauty with Macaronis though is the high wave count and thinking about what you want to work on each wave, but I need to hire a coach

Might detour to Santa Cruz in a couple weeks for a bike roadtrip but will bring a board, 3/2 should be fine this time of year? Would be great to hook up with some of you guys.

And Atrain, we definitely need to spend more time in the water buddy!!!

**Ottime** · 05-05-2015, 01:05 PM

4/3 is more reliable. don't even own a 3/2. Just use my old beater suit if it ever warms up. This can be the coldest time of year with the upwelling. As in low 50s. Add fog and/or wind... Look me up as you get closer to your trip. Will be mostly a weekend warrior the first few weeks of June. If got a foamy, an egg and a log if it is small when your around

**PowerWhore7** · 05-06-2015, 08:14 AM

Fun was had in Mexico this week

SURF!!!!

**supermodel159** · 05-06-2015, 09:56 AM

Pretty insane few days of swell on that south. Big south + spring winds...not the best combo, but the size of the swell cleaned a lot of the chop up on the sets. Now, if this would have hit in mid/late summer, it could have been all time.

A full day of 4.5 @ 25 seconds...rouge waves everywhere.