Anyone else get some today...?

[Ottime]

No suit either. Maybe a shorty.

Is Devarioix (sp) the same as Campus Point? I surfed there a bunch years ago when I eased south. Walking distance from a buddies house. He was a student and so were his neighbors so it may have been Campus Point. Anyway, crowds were not that bad.

Swell should be pumping so I'd consider checkin Rincon. Things sound pretty consistent right now up here

Yesterday morning had an hour of pure bliss while the tike was in school. Swell was running 5-7@18-20. Slight cross off, but that did not matter. High tide keep the slab working perfectly. Easy(ish) entry and solid walls and some barrels off the peaks section. So much fun. Can't imagine SB won't be super fun come Wed.

[Ottime]

CDIP 157, Point Sur is running 11@14 280^ right now. Maybe Wed will be too late for the bulk of it with all the west in it. Should be filling in nicely down there right about now.

[Tectonically_Neglected]

Last week: Bretagne road trip.
3.5m @ 18sec!!!!
Talk about massive. Actually so massive that most beach breaks couldn't handle the swell, and were closing out. Still found enough to surf in cross- to offshore winds and (very) overhead conditions. Had the time of my life and did my best surfing ever (which says a lot about how (not) good I surf). Never been so stoked surfing: long rides, really started carving and turning and one or two near cover ups.

Effing stoked out of my ears!

[Ottime]

Damn. That is a huge difference in period for ya. Huge. DOes it make you want to become a frenchman?

[whitekingsalmon]

I got some board shorts for the winter.

[Rodneyyee]

I got some board shorts for the winter.

Really? Do you wear them around Bishop with the other losers? I bet you ride a motocross bicycle around town slinging your meth with an old Ted Nugent T shirt telling everybody about your imaginary friends in far flung ( googled ) locations!!!!!. How sad are you that old men on Mammoth Forum called you out and now you're done?

[jtran10]

Fun waves last night

[Tectonically_Neglected]

@Ott:
Hell yeah! I'll take the hairy women for granted ;-)

Seriously though, the difference in amount of push was incredible as were the length of rides. Just seeing those massive walls of water rolling in was mind bogling to me, let alone surfing them!
To be honest though, for most beaches it was a bit too much and we saw relatively many lines closing out, especially the first day when the swell period was largest.

That all said: about a year ago, I never imagined that I would surf anything much bigger than 'overhead'. Now I see that size isn't everything; it's also how fast/ hollow the wave breaks. The location we eventually ended up was muchos relaxt with crumbling 'gentle giants'. Ended up being all fun and hardly any stress, though it does leave me wondering how I would handle a more hollow wave (was looking for the cover ups just not getting them completely).

[supermodel159]

Going up to Santa Barbara tomorrow AM for the Phish shows at the SB Bowl Tues and Wed. nights. Bringing the board, wetsuit and boots, and hoping to at least get out Wednesday AM. Looks like there will be a bit of swell at that time too.

The only places I know of in SB are Rincon and Campus Point, both of which seem annoying for a non-local. I dug C Street in Ventura this summer when I surfed there, but I'm sure there's something closer to town that would be fun. Anyone care to PM me some beta on SB spots that would be fun to check out? It would be appreciated!

EDIT: Just read the water is still 70 in SB and Ventura. Wow. No boots.

You should have PM'd me....

Where did you end up?

The water in SB is crazy warm, I have not worn a suit in months.

[Ottime]

@Ott:
Hell yeah! I'll take the hairy women for granted ;-)

Seriously though, the difference in amount of push was incredible as were the length of rides. Just seeing those massive walls of water rolling in was mind bogling to me, let alone surfing them!
To be honest though, for most beaches it was a bit too much and we saw relatively many lines closing out, especially the first day when the swell period was largest.

That all said: about a year ago, I never imagined that I would surf anything much bigger than 'overhead'. Now I see that size isn't everything; it's also how fast/ hollow the wave breaks. The location we eventually ended up was muchos relaxt with crumbling 'gentle giants'. Ended up being all fun and hardly any stress, though it does leave me wondering how I would handle a more hollow wave (was looking for the cover ups just not getting them completely).

Getting after it is so much fun.

Generally speaking, as the period increases beaches tend to close out more. Of course there are exceptions (Blacks, OB, Escondido...) but also generally speaking, most breaks that work well at 7sec will not work very well at 17sec, and vice versa.

I agree with the push difference. Seems like things changes dramatically every few seconds of period. A few things to consider about longer period waves. A larger portion of the energy travels underwater in deep water, and that energy translates to push and lift as the wave moves into shallower water.

On a sand bottom, the change in depth is gradual, so the wave wants to throw very quickly all together unless the swell is either coming in at a very drastic angle, or better yet, there is a little bit of wind swell crossing it up and creating peaks.

On a reef, there is shallow water next to very deep water. And the swell draws up on the reef, there can be a very strong bowling effect, where the peak is steep, round and throwing, while very near by the swell is in deep water and too flat to catch. The trick is to track down that peak as it is starting to be effected by the reef, and the lift/push allows you to paddle in, and the waves almost feels slow, because the transition is smooth and the waves catches you. Obviously positioning and timing is key, but if done right the take off is way simpler than tracking down and paddling into shifty, weak beach break.

Now, actually getting barreled in these conditions is still a challenge, even in very good waves. All that push and lift provides tremendous speed down the line that must be slowed and controlled. And that can be hard. And even once you slow and get inside, you then need to make sure you have the speed to get out.

Sounds like you were on a point break, which is a whole different beast. The wrap tends to make the waves softer, but lined up for longer sections. Points can be powerful and hollow, but those points tend to have more reef pass characteristics (with a quick shift from deep to shallow). I actually find points a bit more challenging because they don't typically have a distinct, concentrated peak, but the take off can shift through a zone. Also, and partly because of this, the take off is flatter, which tend to be easy to make, still require more paddle power to catch, because they don't really catch you. Unless you are using the lip/foam to push you in. Still, at size, they require you to get up and going and making sections as they peel. They can require you to chase down the line.

Of course every single break is different. Some reefs are mushy, some points are short, some breaches break from 2-20 feet or seconds, some never work at all, and there are coves, river mouths, passes, fjords, bores, ledges, cobbles, boulders, continuous, gapped, groins, piers and combinations of all of there. One of the things I like about surfing is getting to know when to go one place, and when to choose another.

Had to make a call last night, and was stoked on my choice. Mid to low tide dropping, 5.5'@11s was perfect. Fun, shoulder high bowls. It is a ledgy reef, and usually longer periods to be working. I surfed it last week when it was 5-6@20. That day was much bigger and juicier and the tide was fuller. Usually I consider 13s to be about the cut off for this spot. I was not so sure about my call, but drive time and sunset help dictate. That lower tide worked perfectly. So much fun. And one guy out. Just enough to make me not focus on the smell of rotting seal carcass.

[whitekingsalmon]

I like my way....... Just open the curtains and look to see if the surf is up or flat.

[Ottime]

I thought you said you cooked in Bishop. So, is does "the surf is up" mean you are product testing? Don't forte to brush those teeth guy.

[thewon]

Washed UP.

[Atrain505]

One day mission to the island. Backhand clean overhead lefts. Good, good day. I need to live close to surf again. Damn.
Off to Mexico next week. Viva!

[meter-man]

Getting after it is so much fun.

Generally speaking, as the period increases beaches tend to close out more. Of course there are exceptions (Blacks, OB, Escondido...) but also generally speaking, most breaks that work well at 7sec will not work very well at 17sec, and vice versa.

I agree with the push difference. Seems like things changes dramatically every few seconds of period. A few things to consider about longer period waves. A larger portion of the energy travels underwater in deep water, and that energy translates to push and lift as the wave moves into shallower water.

On a sand bottom, the change in depth is gradual, so the wave wants to throw very quickly all together unless the swell is either coming in at a very drastic angle, or better yet, there is a little bit of wind swell crossing it up and creating peaks.

On a reef, there is shallow water next to very deep water. And the swell draws up on the reef, there can be a very strong bowling effect, where the peak is steep, round and throwing, while very near by the swell is in deep water and too flat to catch. The trick is to track down that peak as it is starting to be effected by the reef, and the lift/push allows you to paddle in, and the waves almost feels slow, because the transition is smooth and the waves catches you. Obviously positioning and timing is key, but if done right the take off is way simpler than tracking down and paddling into shifty, weak beach break.

Now, actually getting barreled in these conditions is still a challenge, even in very good waves. All that push and lift provides tremendous speed down the line that must be slowed and controlled. And that can be hard. And even once you slow and get inside, you then need to make sure you have the speed to get out.

Sounds like you were on a point break, which is a whole different beast. The wrap tends to make the waves softer, but lined up for longer sections. Points can be powerful and hollow, but those points tend to have more reef pass characteristics (with a quick shift from deep to shallow). I actually find points a bit more challenging because they don't typically have a distinct, concentrated peak, but the take off can shift through a zone. Also, and partly because of this, the take off is flatter, which tend to be easy to make, still require more paddle power to catch, because they don't really catch you. Unless you are using the lip/foam to push you in. Still, at size, they require you to get up and going and making sections as they peel. They can require you to chase down the line.

Of course every single break is different. Some reefs are mushy, some points are short, some breaches break from 2-20 feet or seconds, some never work at all, and there are coves, river mouths, passes, fjords, bores, ledges, cobbles, boulders, continuous, gapped, groins, piers and combinations of all of there. One of the things I like about surfing is getting to know when to go one place, and when to choose another.

Had to make a call last night, and was stoked on my choice. Mid to low tide dropping, 5.5'@11s was perfect. Fun, shoulder high bowls. It is a ledgy reef, and usually longer periods to be working. I surfed it last week when it was 5-6@20. That day was much bigger and juicier and the tide was fuller. Usually I consider 13s to be about the cut off for this spot. I was not so sure about my call, but drive time and sunset help dictate. That lower tide worked perfectly. So much fun. And one guy out. Just enough to make me not focus on the smell of rotting seal carcass.

Great commentary above, and this quote is spot on. Fun sport, rewards experience so much more than just about any other that I've tried. Or is it a lifestyle?? Still not sure yet...

[Atrain505]

Flying into Puerto Vallarta. Have a car rented. Flights booked. Looks like it is going to be super small south swell at least as far as the forecast is saying, maybe that will change.

Generally my wife and my surf vacations go like this.
Base out of a spot close to a consistent wave where we can dawn patrol every morning. She longboards but is turning into a pretty damn good surfer. Can handle herself in well overhead waves and likes those those waves way more than waist high stuff typically associated with long boarding. I like to switch between short boarding and long boarding depending on the conditions.
Come back, make breakfast, nap and hang out in bed.
Afternoon explore other harder to reach spots.
Come back for sunset, fresh guac and margaritas, and then dinner. Rinse repeat.

Originally was thinking I need to find a spot that can catch some good northwest due to the time of year, but I don't think that is happening. So any suggestions on a spot to base out of? Trying to do some research on San Blas, Punta Mita, Sayulita, Santa Cruz, etc.

[Atrain505]

And I am looking at Ott's Punta Mita thread currently. Just want to expand the region to within a few hours+ of the airport. Not just the close stuff.

[whitekingsalmon]

Pavones

[Ottime]

Dunno much about that zone Atrain, but you may want to find some exposed beach break. Might be hard to find much OH surf this time of year unless we get a late season south. Punta Mita breaks face south. PM me if you need access pointers to the breaks around there.

Today was excellent fun.

[Atrain505]

^yep based on today's research seems I'm gonna be doing some nose riding in board shorts. Which is a-ok! PM sent.

[Lee Murian]

It didn't suck in BCS yesterday

[Ottime]

Love the Quasimodo. Are you down there for the snow pre season again?

Last night was the tits. Not big. Maybe head high, so a little smaller than yesterday morning. Tide was super drawn out, so the lesser size and the 11-12s period was very welcome. Much more and the reef would have just been weird. And maybe scary. Instead it was super bowly, with excellent form and tubes galore on the outside section. I tell ya, this slab is such a fun place to have near home.

Been riding on the Solus Futures fin recently. I was really enjoying them at the point breaks, where creating speed by quickly shifting from rail to rail is required. The first time I tried them at the ledge, on a small, but disorganized day, I was not a fan. The ledge gives you so much speed, you really don't need to generate much. And I thought the Solus lacked the hold I needed. Well, I've had them in the board the last three days I surfed the ledge, with limited time to surf, I never changed them out. Holy shit, in clean, juicy waves up to a few OH, these fins are so much fun. They would be easy to over power, but when on top of them they are so loose. Backside bottom turns would bring me right up into the face, so easy to get vertical, then the top turns were so fucking tight and fast, without every having to ever fully extend the back leg. Last night it was fun to take off deep in the bowl, turning right into the wave, quick tight carve off the top, drop back in, and keep the head from getting tagged as you sat deep in the tube. Every one seemed to stay open. Too bad the inside never really set up. That place sucks at low tide. Everyone knows it is a mid tide to high tide wave. Only one other kook out with me.

I give the Solus a stamp of approval. They will not be for everyone. You do need to lay off a bit on the power, and they are super pivot-y, but they make smaller, or softer waves, a ton more fun. My board feels like the rail is about 4' shorter suddenly. To give contrast, my usual fin is a Rusty (Larger, similiar flex, more hold, requires drive). I also own a Stretch 5 fin set in composite. Don't really like them, but I think it might be the material. My 6'6" is coming with a pair of AE, as my shaper thinks I would like those.


Whatever. Kind of thinking a board tech talk thread is in order. JUst so I can type more...

[whitekingsalmon]

Major yawn.

[Ottime]

you read all that? damn, your life must be empty.

[Tectonically_Neglected]

Yesterday: brilliant 'gorillas in the mist' autumn surf session!

Pics (different location and thus not me) give and impression of the conditions: clean, fast, hollow breach break walhalla!
Very happy that I could throw around some stuff in my agenda and surf a few hours. Rocking the mini Simmons!



Link to pics
Pics by SurfEd.