Anyone else get some today...?

[robnow]

Spent the past week exploring the Oregon coastline. Some super fun waves with some decent conditions. Saw the potential of the point. Seemed pretty mind-blowing, otherwise just a collection of exposed and sheltered beach breaks for the most part. Beautiful scenery. A long way south from my normal surf spots on Vancouver island and felt nearly identical in many ways.

We had it firing one Sept. long weekend but none of my group would come out with me from the Cove…so I went solo. Only 4 or 5 guys out but sure enough, one of them was harassing me. At one point as I was going down the line and he was paddling back out he turned around and tried to drop in on me but I just set up for a nice slash and a little bucket in his face Ignored him for the rest. Really great wave, glad I went out.

How about Owen Wright's 20 yesterday…WOW. So freakin' casual and an obvious score.

[Atrain505]

^Classic drop in story! That 20 by Wright was badass. Standing tall through foam balls. Watching on the phone on the ferry coming back from Tofino surf. Fun weekend! About as clean and and big as summer time cox bay can be yesterday morning.

Ott nice pics!

[Ottime]

ya, thanks.

I've been looking into Tofino and it looks pretty damn nice out there. Would not mind finding myself up that way at some time. How long is the drive from Tofino to Whistler in the snow season?

Not quite completely flat down here. 1.4@14 outta the south and 5@9 outta the nnw, with plenty of wind on it west of town. Basically offering up pristine knee to waist high long board waves on the Point. So much fun out there on the old log. It always amazes how that thing can zip down the line once set in a proper trim. Early morning session will see if I can get some more punch and size up north at dawn. First time in a while that there has not been some chest high or bigger ground swell in the water. It is good news for my garden.

[whitekingsalmon]

Head high n offshore at ala moana..... Iife is good.

[Atrain505]

ya, thanks.
I've been looking into Tofino and it looks pretty damn nice out there. Would not mind finding myself up that way at some time. How long is the drive from Tofino to Whistler in the snow season?

Tofino to Whistler is a haul. 2 and a half hours to the ferry. 1 hour 40 minute ferry. 1 hour 20 minute drive to whistler. Mt. Washington on the island is much closer but they have had horrible seasons the last few years. Some pretty intense mountains right around Tofino. My guess is someone there tours around and explores, but haven't heard of any.

I was on the south island a couple years ago after pinning it from revelstoke and on my way to pemberton in between shoots to catch a great swell so I left my sled in the back of the truck as it was just easier that way and had some guys talking about how they have sleds and use them on the south island to ski during winters. They were confused because there was no snow that winter. Essentially ski and surf is hard here because of the island, but there are options on the island, they just aren't consistent or particularly high quality compared to the Whistler area.

[whitekingsalmon]

Yawwwww .... Overhead offshore warm water sweetness... Life is sooo good.

[whitekingsalmon]

South facing beaches going off today on Oahu.

[skideeppow]

Surfing in CO. Missing the ocean, but we make due up here.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yc6xcamWyis

[Xover]

Surfing in CO. Missing the ocean, but we make due up here.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yc6xcamWyis

looks like June 19 of next year is going to be pretty good Matty Ross

[skideeppow]

looks like June 19 of next year is going to be pretty good Matty Ross

why is that? your birthday?

[Ski to Be]

PW7 Looks like a great time in Mexico. Nice pics and blog Otttime. I bookmarked it

[whitekingsalmon]

Yawn. Anyone getting some of that hugeeee swell in indo?????.. Been sweet here last week on south shore Oahu.. Head high to double overhead at times n firing at bowls......2 months here n in 2 days I will be on another island but that's for work...Kodiak bound.

[~mikey b]

Hellz yeah P_Mc!

[Ottime]

McP for the win.

Just got back from across the pond to catch the tail end of the series of SW we had here at home. Heard some good story, and some of our favorite places where going off. I got one day out at the hole, and while mostly in just the 6 foot range, I picked off a 8 and 10 footer of dreamy drainers. Felt nice to get home. Back to weak windswell now. Maybe some tropi on the way for the weekend and early next week before I head out toward rogville for some fried scallops and buttercrunch donuts.

[jtran10]

Last week was super fun down here, but in the past 5 ish days - nada. We'll see what this tropical swell does around here, probably not a whole lot but who knows.

ott - I'll be up your way thanksgiving week. GF and I doing a trip up the coast for 9 days. Not a surf trip, but I'm gonna bring a board I think. SD > Big Sur > Carmel > Pt Reyes > Napa > Humboldt > SF > Carmel > Big Sur > SD. We have friends to stay with in Carmel, but I do want to spend some time in SC and check it out. Hopefully get a session in with you, or at least a beer.

[BS720]

^^Ahem!

[jtran10]

Beers AND surf bs?

[BS720]

Of course!!

[Piggity]

waves

[PowerWhore7]

Fucking claiming Ortley Beach

[Ottime]

This thread is full of stoke right now. Jtran, I might be in town. Might not. Plans are still up in the air. Would love to show you around if we can get some surf. It can get pretty big up here around that time of the year. It seemed like for years the season opener was falling during that week.

Pigs, you getting some? That would be good news.

PW7, scoring the east. Was that this past Sunday? I was at Seaside, RI, which is tucked behind Block and it was a pumping waist plus. Never seen it so solid at that beach before.


Had a fun day long boarding mid tide Wells last week. Had a lot of fun scoring sucking semi tubes at Ts today. Perfect sized crowd. Two on the beach looking out to sea. Had it to myself for two hours. Stomach to shoulder high and throwing. So much fun to be home.

[HotTate]

Here's some GoPro footage from Cardiff this morning.
Little swell seems to be hanging on!
(I posted this on a separate thread as well, but I'm a click whore)

[PowerWhore7]

PW7, scoring the east. Was that this past Sunday? I was at Seaside, RI, which is tucked behind Block and it was a pumping waist plus. Never seen it so solid at that beach before.

That was yesterday, I surfed dawn patrol at the Casino Pier and then two more sessions throughout the day at 2nd & 3rd ave in Ortley Beach. Mostly shoulder to head high with a very occasional overhead wave, but super clean, offshore and barreling ALL DAY

Best dirty Jerz I have seen in a long time. Looks really good today too, just a notch smaller.

[whitekingsalmon]

Back in Hawaii in kahala after one month of crazy dangerous work on a seiner... Life is so good.

[Ottime]

Sounds a bit smaller up in Maine yesterday. Are you still headed that way?

So nice to score fun waves at home. Even better to get home when it is firing. Enjoy.