Thread: Anyone else get some today...?

Brought the 8'0" and a pair of trunks today to surf 2' perfect little lefts, caught a billion waves and was actually really fun.

Get a log rog. I have both a true log and a 7'6" egg like creature that was left behind at my house. I use the egg a lot, but then again, I don't have a rocket or fish like board. Both my short boards are low volume or very low volume and my step up is very low volume, so I use the egg when it gets small and gutless.

A real log will not bore you. Go find one stashed under a house at places like Drakes Island Beach. Score CL and yard sales for someones classic board. I got my Rick, which turns 50 next year, for $25 from someone who found, stashed in the crawl space, when they bought their beach cottage. The thing is so hard to ride that it is always fun. Almost no rocker, and a huuuudge tail concave makes things interesting. And at 9'3" and about 30#, it takes some muscle to turn. And finesse.

Found the combo set up yesterday for some head high barrels. Go figure, when the other breaks were mostly waist, with maybe some chest high soft peaks. 5@10 from the nw has filled in for this morning, with more super steep (160) 2@14. Gonna go see if I can find some of that. Word is Montara was pretty fun last night.

Fabio finally made the turn north but is barely hanging onto Hurri status. Looks like the past 7 hours he has been on an very good path and is now heading 320 at 7kt. He's losing steam quickly so every hour is key to some fun size waves for slocal throughout the week.

thanx ottime, i'll keep my eye out. i have owned some classic ole logs over the years, but been so long since. i'd like to pay as little as possible as i won't use it very much.

got a nice 2 session day in today. 1st one in southern maine where i found thigh/waist high waves and super clean. not much punch, but plenty of face for the rocket to work with. no one out cept for 3 of us from 7-8am when the waves were best, then it started to get busier as the swell dropped a bit. being surrounded by a crowd of loggers on my 5'9 is never a great time, but some of the best formed waves were the insiders where i sat, so that worked out.

after a coupla hours of that i headed south to nh and trunked it for a short sesh in rye. smaller than maine and kinda closey, but nice to be out there without any rubber.

may head back out this evening depending on the buoy, or just wait for morning.

hot out here, hotter tomorrow.

git some

rog

What is the water temp running back there? I might be in the water in just about a week's time. Southern Maine, with a crowd? Rivermouth? Long Sands? Hell, even the better days on my visit last sumer rarely saw another board the whole length of the beach. Love my homebreak.

i'd say mid 60's. jeffreys ledge buoy is high 60's, but some of the warm surface water must be drifting from the shore with the offshores.

longsands. only 3 of us the 1st hour 7-8am, then 20-25 spread out after that. i guess the wall had60-80 folks out by 630am. yikes. crowds are easy to avoid, even in nh.

woulda gone to rivermouth but tide was mid coming in.

rog

I am loving this current flat spell. Found head high plus peaks at my favorite fall spot yesterday. Sure the wall was a little weaker than ideal, but it was powerful enough for the 6'3" chip and to send you over the falls if you were not on top of things. And today I ferreted out the little southeast in the water and score chest to shoulder high barrels. I bet during this entire swell event since last Friday there have been fewer than a 100 surfers on it. Gotta love when all the forecast outlets are wrong about what this stretch of coast can pull in.

love that story^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

rog

Solspot forecast for today was "poopy" and knee to thigh high dribblers. I surfed overhead thick heavy fast pertain today and was a bit under gunned. So disappointed. Maybe they will be as wrong tomorrow.

Originally Posted by Ottime

I am loving this current flat spell. Found head high plus peaks at my favorite fall spot yesterday. Sure the wall was a little weaker than ideal, but it was powerful enough for the 6'3" chip and to send you over the falls if you were not on top of things. And today I ferreted out the little southeast in the water and score chest to shoulder high barrels. I bet during this entire swell event since last Friday there have been fewer than a 100 surfers on it. Gotta love when all the forecast outlets are wrong about what this stretch of coast can pull in.

Well count your blessings, as I haven't surfed in weeks due to weak ass conditions. Granted, I can't be on it at any moment, but the days I have open during the week have sucked ass forever. Seriously, why live close to the ocean if you can't get some surf in. O, that is right, because my wife won't move to the mountains.
Rant over

And my wife is kinda pushing for us to move to the mountains but I'm afraid I'll miss the ocean....I'm constantly torn between the two

Originally Posted by Piggity

And my wife is kinda pushing for us to move to the mountains but I'm afraid I'll miss the ocean....I'm constantly torn between the two

well i'm single with all of the time in the world and now choose ocean living over mountain living 110%. once there's snow in the mountains, it's there, and pretty much always good and fresh if you tour even if it hasn't snowed in days/weeks. to score waves often and the best, you gotta be within minutes at any time, and have to be able to drop anything/everything. i mean shit, i caught the one waist high pulse in the last 2-3 weeks and it only lasted one hour, but i was on it cuz i was a few minutes away. if i lived up in the mountains i'd be fucked. living an hour an a half from george, i can score excellent uncrowded bc skiing even if it never snows on my days off all winter pretty much. don't be torn piggity. stay at the beach and run to the hills for the snow that lays/stays there. the ocean is so much more dynamic on so many levels.

rog

I agree with rog here on the point that if want to surf, you need to be near the beach. I'm lucky and within 5 minutes of a number of good breaks. The snow is 4 hours away, but I tend to get plenty of good snow each season. I know that I miss a lot, not living in the mountains (like the before/after work thing), but I would miss a whole lot more surf if I was even 20 minutes up into the local hills. Maybe it is that a good surf session can be had in an hour and a half, but a good tour takes most of the day. Or the surf is just that more fickle.

Originally Posted by liv2ski

Well count your blessings

I do daily. Right now, things are good, and I am lucky enough to have a go at it almost daily. In the fall, it will be a bit harder, but I try to get out every time I have a window and make the most of it. Recently, I have had a lot of short board days, but I can utilize my egg when things are not as well shaped, and take out my log when it is micro. I've been on the water 17 of the last 18 days. I returned from a trip 19 days ago, and travel again on Friday. For sure I will be in the water tomorrow morning.

17 out of 18, good game. wish i could say the same. i'd be a much more tolerable human being if the ocean was cooperating. maybe august

fickle, yes fickle. love and hate that word just the same. one of the gaggillion things i love about new hammy coastal living is that we can have a noreaster blow through town and pummeldump george with a foot or 2 o new, skin up to high east facing in the early am while the wind is still east and dropping. score beautiful deep pow in the gullies and fields before the wind switches and scary slabs start to form, put in about 6k of climbing before noon, get outta there and head to the beach while the wind goes offshore and surf from 2pm till dark. nice to be able to easily score ski/surf days from november-june.

another nice thing for going coastal is that more often than not, we can keep our cycling fitness all winter as well. no waves or just crap conditions? sub par conditions in the mountains? how bout some bone dry frozen ground grippy singletrack to rip around on.

livin

hope to see you soon mang^^^^^^^^^even if just for a beer!

rog

Originally Posted by Piggity

And my wife is kinda pushing for us to move to the mountains but I'm afraid I'll miss the ocean....I'm constantly torn between the two

You guys are right. Were I live would be pretty much most peoples dream location. Besides, if all goes well, in about 10-12 years we won't be working full time anymore and can live where ever we want in the USA, Canada or Europe. So lots of variety and locations will be had and seen, but I would bet anything we end up back where we are at, as oldsters probably like the beach more than the cold. I will be one of those guys out at Old Mans every morning

I would agree with the above sentiments on the ocean/mountain dilemma. I lived in the mountains for 5 years between college and grad school, and while I loved it, I'm glad I left. I would rather live close to the beach, as you really don't get to surf much otherwise. I am 5.5 hours from Mammoth, without traffic, and 1.5 hours from Mt. Baldy. In a good year, I get about 30 days at Mammoth and 10 at Baldy. I would rather do that, and get to surf all summer, than move to the mountains. There is also much more economic opportunity here.

I have sometimes thought about living in a place like Seattle or Denver, if I found the right work opportunity, but I would still be a weekender, so I don't think I would get too many more ski days than I do now. The advantage to those cities would be the ski convenience, but if you are willing to drive you can get lots of great skiing from socal. And when Baldy gets a good year I can pretty much get at least one day a weekend on the weekends I don't go to Mammoth, and some of those weekends I ski both days. Baldy really makes it nice to be a socal skier, although I wish the snow was a bit more consistent.

I don't surf much in the winter, as I am cubicle bound and devote my weekends to skiing, but it is nice to have the option.

I was able to get plenty more ski days in Seattle - night skiing, touring after work, etc. Shit ton more fun weekday exercise than the gym. Later in the season if you can get out of work by 4 you can even get a 2-3k vert tour in before dark. Downside is the 2-3hr drive to surf which makes it all but useless.

Living closer to the beach definitely brought more pick-up sessions than even a 10-20 minute drive from the beach.

shrug, first world problems.


I'd second the log advice. they are fun for summer.

nice combo of south swells yesterday at a norcal cove:

2012-07-19 08.49.19 by wvhartje, on Flickr

nice wall on that left, looks really fun.


The responses above pretty much echo my hesitation. I already feel too far from the beach living 1.5 miles away. Unfortunately we are priced out of anything closer (for buying) and I found myself surfing a lot less this past year for some reason. Probably a combo of injuries, lack of motivation, work, 2 kids, etc.... I am intrigued about living in Tahoe for a season though, I need more space and less people. I guess my only option would be for day or weekend trips for surf, ouch. House is officially on the market and we can't do anything until it sells, but all this is being talked about on a daily in my house

Piggity, Beacons on Saturday at 8am. Look for the blue Volvo wagon with SURF SD plates. Pray for surf and maybe I will see you there.

Originally Posted by Hugh Conway

I was able to get plenty more ski days in Seattle - night skiing, touring after work, etc. Shit ton more fun weekday exercise than the gym. Later in the season if you can get out of work by 4 you can even get a 2-3k vert tour in before dark. Downside is the 2-3hr drive to surf which makes it all but useless.

Living closer to the beach definitely brought more pick-up sessions than even a 10-20 minute drive from the beach.

shrug, first world problems.


I'd second the log advice. they are fun for summer.

I can see that with Seattle. I guess that would be the benefit of there or Colorado, you can get those type of tours in. If you are talking about full resort days, you could probably log a few more living close, but people in California can live in the cities and get days in, if they are willing to drive.

I actually have some friends who live in LA and get far more ski days than I do. I go to Mammoth 5 out of every 8 weekends, and I get 1-2 days at Baldy the weekends I stay home. They go to Mammoth 9 or every 10 weekends, and take extended ski vacations in the winter. They are late 40's, and don't have kids, so they don't have anything to tie them down. They are both attorneys, and work 9 days every 2 weeks, so every other weekend is 3 days. They probably log 70 days a year, at least. So it can be done, if you want it badly enough.

I don't think I would surf if I lived in Seattle, so when it comes down to it I would prefer living on the California coast and driving to get my ski days each year, versus living in Seattle and basically stopping surfing. Like you said, living 5 minutes away from surf gets you some of those random evening cleanups, stuff you don't get if you live even an hour away.

HC, did you surf at all in Seattle, or did you just enjoy the skiing?

PedPro,

Nice pic. I'm just about ready to end the week, and that photo really makes me want to run home and grab my board.

skiing: "should have been here yesterday..."

surfing: "should have been here an hour ago..."

L2S, we'll be getting our house ready for another showing this morning but if I can break away then I'll head up. I'll be riding a green striped 8'0" TDK

^^^^Good luck with the showing. Looks smaller than yesterday, so will be on the 8'10" (my longest board) wetsuit has short sleeves and long legs. I will catch you on a better swell. Enjoy your weekend.

Paddled out around 8:30am. Didn't see you in the lineup, but think I saw you get out of the water around 9:30 or so, is your board a tri-fin? I was in trunks with no rashy.

Caught a couple fun little NW wind swell peaks. Saw this guy destroying knee-waist high waves. He was doing full on round houses on knee high waves and he had enough speed to absolutely destroy the lip on the rebound, very few people I've ever seen could compare to how easy he made it look