Thread: Anyone else get some today...?

ya, all bout volume. gotta be able to get that rail underwater, always. too much volume and yer just skating. i'm 6' 170lb and ride 29L, my rocket. works great for me, even in the gutless clean knee/thigh bumps that were coming in this morning at the wall.

hopefully more bumps for the morning. weekend into next week looks interesting. loving these 4-6 days surf weeks, in june

rog

So 33L sounds about right then. Just ordered 4 CI deck pads for about $12 each, including shipping and tax. Send a PM if anyone needs one

Don't forget rocker. Lost made me a rocket in 6-4. I've surfed boards a foot shorter, but due to the huge tail rocker, it wasn't a board I could get into anything under head high.

Originally Posted by BS720

Don't forget rocker. Lost made me a rocket in 6-4. I've surfed boards a foot shorter, but due to the huge tail rocker, it wasn't a board I could get into anything under head high.

hmmm. maybe my 5'9 has less tail rocker, but i find the increased tail rocker to really help the boards ability to complete full rail carves in tighter spaces. plus with the flatter entry rocker and high chest area volume, getting the board into the tiny seems easy. the tail kick with flat entry rocker also gives you one helluva gas pedal combo to beat closey sections too.

your custom may have more than the norm?

33L does sound perfect piggity. if it feels right, all future boards can be the same volume. or very close to it.

early up, early to the beach. rocket time!!!

rog

This fucking guy got some for sure! @ 50sec is the action...

Just had a surprisingly fun session in Newport. Waist high+, so not too big, but pretty good shape. Surfed from 61 to 65, until black ball forced us past 68. The peaks between 68 and 71 were a bit better, and despite black ball it was not all that crowded. The water is mid-60's, so I was comfortable in a spring. What really made it good was that the wind held off, I expected a lot more crumble. There are some good sand bars above 61, so now all we need is a S/SW to kick in.

It's always nice to have those days where you surprise yourself. Definitely one of those days where you paddle for every ripple, and sometimes get rewarded. I will go back there tomorrow.

Did anyone paddle out in San Clemente? Or Salt Creek? I'm wondering if it is worth it to drive down.

It might not be pumping, but sometimes it is pleasantly surprising how much fun a waist high+ wave can be if everything is right.

Sunshine. Warm water. Hot girls in bikinis. Surprisingly fun little surf, when there is not supposed to be any. Sometimes I love Orange County.

Originally Posted by Long duc dong

Did anyone paddle out in San Clemente? Or Salt Creek?

I just got back from Salt Creek & it was pretty much how you described Newport. Nothing big, but peaky waist high (some rogue chest high) super fun surf...beware though - it was SUPER crowded. At one point I just grabbed my flippers and spent the rest of the afternoon deep inside closeout barrels. Good luck

Originally Posted by Long duc dong

Sunshine. Warm water. Hot girls in bikinis. Surprisingly fun little surf, when there is not supposed to be any. Sometimes I love Orange County.

Oh yeah ^this^

Is the water really 58-61 today in newp/huntington?

It was nice yesterday afternoon, and I had hoped for a post-euro surf that was similar to yesterday's serendipitous fun. If it is that cold, well that makes me less fired up to surf waist high waves.

hot air (90), cold water (mid 50's) made the africa hot temps tolerable this afternoon. had a nice lil uptick in the swell, the same afternoon uptick that has occurred the last 6 days in a row. small but fun waist high and super clean till the cold front came through at 645pm dropping temps by 20 degrees and immediately wind fucking the entire coastline with brisk northerlies. glad to have gotten some fun ones before the switch. winds should behave overnight allowing for some fun in the am. waves every day

my new better wave, or "step up" board has been picked out. 1" longer, 1/4" narrower, with a bit less volume than my small wave 5'9 rocket . thing is gonna be unreal. sidecut, finally sidecut. i'm not buying into the small wave board 1-4ft marketing. thing is gonna tear ass in anything i'd paddle into round here.

http://www.haydenshapes.com/page_var178

rog

Guess I am much to picky, as I haven't seen any rideable surf in about 10 days

^sorta fun windswell yesterday at D street, 2-3'. little weak but peaky. Nothing great but NW windswell in July is odd

Originally Posted by liv2ski

Guess I am much to picky, as I haven't seen any rideable surf in about 10 days

In OC? I have been having a blast on the 9’ log at Trails in San Clemente in the morning and then hitting Salt Creek/Strands area in the afternoon for some peaky beach break short board stuff. Nothing epic or even good for that matter but SUPER fun and tons of ASS everywhere.

Originally Posted by icelanticskier

i'm not buying into the small wave board 1-4ft marketing. thing is gonna tear ass in anything i'd paddle into round here.


rog

It might just be a ne vs wc thing. First thing I noticed when I moved out here, was how much more power the typical waves have. I have several boards in my quiver that I would sell instantly if I was ever to move back to main. My daily driver, small wave and step up boards would be useless, except for one or two epic type days. I would need more volume in each of them to work an any regular day.

I'm back from upstate ny, and watching the wind swell start to build back up and looking forward to some solid south by Friday. Here is hoping to calm mornings up the coast.

'm not buying into the small wave board 1-4ft marketing.

That's the odd part, this isn't strictly a 1-4ft board type of thing. People are now riding shorter boards in all surf, especially waves that pitch square. Waves where you need a lot of paddle but can't fit a 8'6" gun into the pocket, on the drop, as it's heaving over you. Too much board length on a critical wave makes it really easy to dig a nose. The shorter board allows you to make adjustments in a small space but still have the paddle power needed to catch the wave.

Think about having a 9'6" rhino chaser at Chopes, most likely you'll dig the nose as it's pitching square mid drop. Having a 7'2" but thicker and wider board allows you to have the same paddle power (volume) to make those steep drops without digging the nose.

ottime, i hear ya on the power differences. even on my both coasts costa rica trip this winter i was amazed at the difference in power from home. i was riding a 6'2" x 18 3/8 x 2.25 with a buncha rocker and barely even had to paddle for waist high waves there. just turn, sink the tail, pop and go.

piggity, so key to ride boards that fit well into the waves you're riding. for the waves i ride (knee to a few feet ohead), my 5'9 is perfect, altho that new 5'10 will handle the head plus a lot better. lot less tail area.

surfed nh and mass today. after many days in a row of kinda fun, but kinda meh, this morning put a smile on my face. showed up to the wall to thigh/occ waist and dumpy closey. all it needed was a bit more water. with the tide filling in, the surf bumped up to waist with chest sets, power, and clean offshores. played with that for a coupla hours then headed home to cape cod for an afternoon surf at head of the meadow by the ole shipwreck with my uncle. waves were not nearly what i had in nh this morning, but still rideable and nicely shaped bars. place would freak me out with a real swell. i'd be more excited than a lab puppy with a ball at the beach.

64 years old and crazy as ever. he's built up a sweet surf retreat in the pines of wellfleet, so beers were had on the deck and stories shared. the surfboard rack loaded with tons of boards still used today is so cool. checked coast guard on my way back to moms tonight. glassy thigh high. gonna check it early. coast guard looked to have the best break of all the spots i checked today. i gotta say tho, i'm fucking spoiled with the breaks and wave quality in nh. we can take most wind directions as well. all cept for southeast. cape=west, wnw, wsw, and sw. limited.

78 sunny light breeze. perfect cape weather.

till tomorrow.................

rog

Originally Posted by liv2ski

Guess I am much to picky, as I haven't seen any rideable surf in about 10 days

Full disclosure, I surfed Friday afternoon and Saturday, and both of those days I basically went even though it did not look great on Surfline. I just decided I was going to go and surf waist-high slop no matter what. It ended up being more fun than I thought, but I was REALLY jonesing to get wet.

If this was coming at the end of a nice 5 day southwest, with overhead surf every day, I probably would not have paddled out.

Sometimes you just decide to go, and you find stomach high fun peaks. This weekend was like that for me.

Originally Posted by Long duc dong

Sometimes you just decide to go

darn toot'n.

up early and out to coastguard beach this am. clean and breaking well across the hole then bar hole then bar hole then bar beach. nice setup really. had i been the size of a ken doll, it woulda been downright epic. twas knee with occasional patella/low thigh high sets. awesome. sofuckit i went out on the 5'9 and surprisingly, ok maybe not so surprisingly cuz the board is fucking magic, got some fun ones. the longboarders and SUPS were making one turn and going straight down the line where i was able to pump some turns and a mini floater or two. short boards rool had to be spot on perfectly angled with instant pop and pump to make it work. doing a shit ton of mini wave surfing has it's pluses round here. you get a ton o days in, and when it gets good it's ez by comparison. no work.

beautiful morning with seals everywhere per usual. nice small crowd of folks one peak over from me.

always good to get wet. always good to stay in shape.

tomorrow?

howz the west coast today?

rog

Pretty poor. It sucked balls today but I still picked off a few fun ones for my first day back in the water.

But we have swell on the way. First one in a while so the usual spots will be a shit show. But if the winds stay light in the mornings, we will be finding some real waves as soon as tomorrow.

mmmmm, real waves, wouldn't that be somethin. none for me today, gonna get rusty

friday looks to show a bump of some sort maybe.

when are you coming out this way? i can't remember.

enjoy the morning tomorrow, happy 4th y'all!

rog

Finally some god damn “real” surf! Just got back from Salt Creek and it was shoulder to head high and pretty consistent, the shape however could use some work. Sectiony walls were the norm but there were a few corners to be had, overall it was a great day at the beach (even if it was a shitshow). Tomorrow should be super fun, Piggity where you @?

Right here. Didn't surf today but tomorrow morning

Surfed a spot that doesn't really pick up a south and it was still about chest high, caught a few. Think either Black's or LJ reefs for an evening session/dawn patrol tomorrow, those places should be feeling the swell a little better

In the water just after 6am, low tide nugs pushing through about 3-4ft with occasional bigger set. Bagged a bunch of waves and then called it a session after about 3.5 hrs. Noodle arms

Finally, a weekend with some swell.

Surfed newp Friday evening. Worth going, but pretty bumpy. Still, it was nice to see something actually above waist high.

Saturday I made my first Trestles trip of the season. That says something, that June was pretty bad. The water was around 66, and I surfed from 430 to 630 in the Cottons/Barbedwires area. It was pretty fun, with head high sets, although the head high ones were a bit walled. The chest and shoulder high lefts were really fun. I tucked into a pocket slightly south of Cottons, where there weren't too many people. There were some lulls, but I was still able to get a ton of waves. They were soft, so definitely better on a fishy type board, but still really fun, and some of them would wrap pretty well. I actually really like those types of days in that spot, as it is not epic, just really fun, and the crowd is spread out enough that you get your wave count. It's really great to FINALLY get a good Trestles day this summer. Shoulder high Barbedwires can be a whole lot more fun than it sounds.

Newport Sunday morning. Not great, but swell in the water. After a flat June anything sounds good. I don't feel like driving down to Trestles, but I bet it would still be fun.

2nd half of the week should be interesting. Not an ideal path but it's a big storm (surface area) and forecasted to max out around 130mph winds. Bring it Emilia