Thread: Anyone else get some today...?

Mmmmmmmm. Combo.

For me, I live for those first solid NW swells of the season in October. I am over the inconsistent South Swells. Come on Gulf of Alaska, bring it.

Well, according to stormsurf, you guys should expect devastatingly hudge surf in a few days. I would head up into the mountain if this is not a typo.

Previously, a cutoff low developed Monday PM (9/19) on the eastern edge of the CA swell window with 45 kt southwest winds over a tiny area in the Central Pacific. By Tuesday AM winds were near 55 kts but it had quickly turned flowing due east. 34 ft seas were modeled at 34 ft Tuesday AM at 38S 130W covering only a tiny area. In the evening seas to build to 36 ft at 37S 125W over a tiny area all aimed to the east. 38 ft seas forecast at 37S 119W Wed AM (9/21) before fading and moving out of even the Southern CA swell window. Some degree of tiny south angled sideband swell is possible for Southern CA by Tues AM (9/27) with luck 91.6 ft @ 16-17 secs - 189 degrees)

That should break at about 160 foot at you deep water spots. Cortez?

When is the next good swell coming to Santa Cruz? I want one more looksee before I leave on Oct 9th.

Well this morning we have a moderate swell. 10@14. Another decent south is brewing today and should arrive before the 9th. Nothing big on the charts for the nw, but things can change quickly. You'll need to come back for Turkey Day. That is usually the season opener for big swells. Although I remember a 20'@20sec October swell about a decade ago. By afternoon the Point was empty. No one out. Couldn't get out as triple overhead waves peeled perpendicular to the point. New Brighton had like 300 people on it.

20' @ 20 sec

Mav's was 12-15' and clean today. Nobody out, due to some fuckhead getting buzzed by a grey suburban last night. Best way to surf Mavericks=post shark scare.

Originally Posted by Piggity POW

20' @ 20 sec

It was back in the days of waking up and turning on the weather band to get the bouy reports. Monterey Bay was still something like 5@10 at 5AM. I thought I heard it wrong, or it was a mis-speak when Pt. Arena was showing 22@25. A few hours later we popped up to 20@20. We got out early and were on the Point when the swell started to kick up. Got one of my biggest waves ever, and certainly my biggest ever on the Point that day. Went in for lunch, returned and there was just no way out. We ended up surfing the right at Bombora in the afternoon.

Originally Posted by BS720

Mav's was 12-15' and clean today. Nobody out, due to some fuckhead getting buzzed by a grey suburban last night. Best way to surf Mavericks=post shark scare.

Surprised to hear that. Surfed Scotts at Sunset and it was 8 foot faces. A few bigger ones, but not much. Just what I'd expect for a 10@12. Would have thought Mavs was showing in the 10-12 range. And to be honest, most of the Mav chargers I know are not really afraid of sharks. It is just part of the appeal.

BTW, those 8 foot faces were really fun and a bit thicker than I would have expected for the short period.

The Lane looked real good around 2PM. Gotta love these fall-lite swells. Just enough size to be fun, but not as demanding as a real swell.

^^Yeah, I was surprised and stoked to see it empty. Sloat was pretty big yesterday morning. Definitely past the 12' mark. Last night it had toned down a bit. Looking forward to some 20 @ 20, so I can just watch!

Originally Posted by BS720

Sloat was pretty big yesterday morning

That was some fun shit, especially on a little 6'6 step up

8 September, Rhode Island:




2 September, Oregon:

Originally Posted by Superstar Punani

That was some fun shit, especially on a little 6'6 step up

Looks like it was cleaner up there. The lane was super crisp and lined up. North it was chunky, shifty and surprisingly thick for the 12 second period it was showing at sunset. A lot smaller tonight, but still some fun head high things to play around on. Super clean. September has been fun.

Originally Posted by Superstar Punani

That was some fun shit, especially on a little 6'6 step up

Shit, sad to say, I am uncertain my old ass would have been able to paddle out through that. Give me a reef break with a channel all day long.

What time was this? Looks like noon, I'm guessing? There was a little channel at Noriega that helped a bit. I love the twofer days!

Originally Posted by liv2ski

Shit, sad to say, I am uncertain my old ass would have been able to paddle out through that. Give me a reef break with a channel all day long.

Yup. It always seemed funny to me when SC surfers make fun of, give shit to, etc. SF surfers. The city boys paddle circles around us blessed with points to jump off of and channels to paddle out through. Scotts can be pushing 15-20 feet and with the sand, tide and swell just right - a dry hair paddle out. Middles can be just as big, and you meely need to time jumping off the point. You almost forget how to duck dive.

Originally Posted by BS720

What time was this? Looks like noon, I'm guessing? There was a little channel at Noriega that helped a bit. I love the twofer days!

11ish. My drive to work involves going thru the Great Hwy and a surf check of all of OB. So if the surf is looking good or fun, then I end up "working from home" just like on powder days.

So if the surf is looking good or fun, then I end up "working from home" just like on powder days.

That's my work schedule too!

Originally Posted by Superstar Punani

11ish. My drive to work involves going thru the Great Hwy and a surf check of all of OB. So if the surf is looking good or fun, then I end up "working from home" just like on powder days.

It worked out kind of that way for me. Before I was a papa. Just saying.

Now, it is not so bad. Stay home with the boy. Keep him alive and happy. Stock the house. Tidy things up. Manage to have dinner ready to go. Grab a surf when mom gets home.

Not as flexible and some times you get screwed by winds or tides. But developing a daddy exchange so we can all take turns surfing to not miss as many good surfs. Hopefully we are ready for the arrival of fall.

Still trying to figure out how that powder day is going to work out. --Hey Mom, wanna come visit for a few days? I am sure the mrs. would love to spend a few days with my mom while I ski. Got to figure out how to play that one.

^1 kid was still a breeze to get 2 surfs in a day if I wanted, 2 kids has cramped my style a bit. It's worth it though and they will soon be right behind me during paddle outs and skiing down the hill. Maybe they'll be in front of me paddling out and skiing down the hill, we'll see 'bout that though

I only mention that because you will eventually dial in a schedule that will work for you and the fam

Originally Posted by Ottime

Yup. It always seemed funny to me when SC surfers make fun of, give shit to, etc. SF surfers. The city boys paddle circles around us blessed with points to jump off of and channels to paddle out through. Scotts can be pushing 15-20 feet and with the sand, tide and swell just right - a dry hair paddle out. Middles can be just as big, and you meely need to time jumping off the point. You almost forget how to duck dive.

Sure, I will. But you SC surfers have better pack ethic. When it's ginormous at OB, and I'm paddling for my life, usually I make it outside and I'm alone, mid-beach. If it's smaller and crowded, and I'm being back-paddled, usually it's a guy with a hotline wetsuit, an M10 board with twenty stickers on it and a crazy spray. Every time I surf the lane it reminds me that I need to remember how to surf with a crowd. That's a skill, and it's a funky one. Hats to you guys for being so good at it.

Originally Posted by BS720

Mav's was 12-15' and clean today. Nobody out, due to some fuckhead getting buzzed by a grey suburban last night. Best way to surf Mavericks=post shark scare.

Was it stolen or something?

I am a pottymouth. I didn't get a chance to run the VIN. I would imagine it was from AK, and just down here on vacation. The guy described it as "this wide", and had his arms extended.

I figured out how to move among the herd when I first moved here 15 plus years ago. I had no car and the lane was really the only option within walking distance. It is not something I would say that I enjoy. In short, you either need to put blinders on and not give a damn about humanity (be a selfish prick) or, not get any waves. The most recent time I surfed there, I totally snaked someone to get a wave. I was feeling guilty and about to yell "go", when he stopped paddling and hotted at my awesomeness. According to the rules at the slot, it was my wave, because I was the better back paddler.

I much prefer to surf up north, where the code is a bit more gentlemanly. And in the fall, it is a bit bigger, rawer and more powerful to boot. Anyway, one to take away - chokes was pretty fun on Saturday. Glassy, head high ish and just four to five guys in the water.



This spot honestly needs a bit more swell to be really working, but this is not too bad.


It was pretty consistent for four.

Talking about Lineups, I'm kinda sweating the Hawaii trip we just booked. I've done North shore several times during preseason October NW's but this visit is going to be in January. Im also rolling with 1 less intact acl this time, I don't feel prepared