Thread: Anyone else get some today...?

Caught a boat at 0700 to manznillo. Sets were head plus, and we stayed out for three hours. Long enough for this gringo to get fried, despite liberal sunscreen apps. I'm happy to hear my Cali brethren are getting their's, too! TR to follow, and this should be one hell of a winter.

SC had a little more south swell this past week. A good chance it is the last of the decent sized souths for the season. Nothing like the huge one we had, but still some decent size. The fog was thin, so I walked with my son and new toy down to the lane.

Things were still pretty thick along west cliff on the way there.


But once at the lane, the fog was already starting to break.


This guy was the best one to shot. He was consistent. I also like how the wave/ his wake looks like a third arm.


3 surfers. 3 different waves to approach the wave.


Things are pretty small right now, but it looks like we have some NW brewing. I bet even SD gets a dose of winter by next Friday.

My kid got some today on his new board. $75 craigslist score. He was stoked. Big drop from his 8' foamer but he got up pretty quick.

Great shots Ottime. Love the cutback photo.

Nice pic BR, he looks stoked! Hopefully he doesn't give me stink eye in 10 years when he is dominating the peak

yesterdays thigh high went waist/head today with light onshores. hit same point as yesterdays log session, but with the shorty. just me at 1st, then joined by just one other for the duration. tomorrow should be wonderful as winds go offshore overnight with a 5ft@9/10 second period. long enough period for some power, but short enough to preserve the peaky bowl-e-ness.

stoked for tomorrow is an understatement.

nice pics and kid stoke above!

rog

Some small NW has started to filter in up here, prepping us for later this week when the real stuff should show for a moment.

Lots of folks out this afternoon fighting for a few small ones.


Kelp and foam in between sets.


Small, but crisp lips to hit.


My favorite shot from my five minute session.

OT, props to you and your new camera. This thread improved vastly with your purchase. Love that last pic.

Looks fun. I need surf

I'll check out Rockview tomorrow - hopefully it's overhead. Not gonna make it to the lane, although I did get over there last Friday. Tiny but at least I could see how it breaks. And the lighthouse museum, so cool.

The pleasure point guy is out, traded up for a maui native. And he says he can ski. Tatoos. Excited to see him surf tomorrow.

Originally Posted by BS720

OT, props to you and your new camera. This thread improved vastly with your purchase. Love that last pic.

Second that.

Check out the 90hr+ on the models, nice Npac system and then a little blob south of baja.

http://www.stormsurfing.com/cgi/disp...?a=npac_height

That little blob might just send some moisture into the state.

Tried to get out to shoot at the lane this morning. Bug conspired to abort the mission with diaper changes, bottle feeds and a general need to be cuddled. Still, I got a few shots off. Bad angle and light. And way too wide of a lens.

The slot seemed to have the best waves. I missed a number of good shots, with thick lips. But it was really the only down the line surfing going on.


Middle Peak had some large peaks. Definitely over head.


The left looked very nice, but was mostly untouched. This guy dropped into one deep.


But the outside really remained unridden. This was a typical set. Untouched.


The peanut gallery was huge. As were many of the lenses I saw.


Got out this evening, up the coast. Far from perfect. Far from great even. But it was several feet over head and just two of us out. And plenty of paddling. Surf should be on over the next few days.

nice shots chad!

waves look quite user friendly. overhead? c'mon!

rog

Nice pics!!!!! Fun day down in San Diego this morning, with some chest to head high waves coming through pretty consistently at Delmar. Was a very fun morning. Took my buddies to breakfast afterwards and we were all very happy with the waves. Felt like Fall this morning

More manageable today. Bigger crowds. Not so bad around 9:30. By 10:30 it was thick. The boyz were schooling the new arrival slugs. Heckles and full antics at the slot. A shot to give you a taste of the day. This guy killed every wave. Usually in front of some one.



Waves ranging from chest to slightly overhead. Lots of folks on the water. 50 surfers. A few SUP around the corner. Sail boats, row boats, power boats, kayaks.

Originally Posted by icelanticskier

nice shots chad!

waves look quite user friendly. overhead? c'mon!

rog

Actually, looks can be deceiving. There was a lot of current, and Middles is a pop up peak - hard to judge where it will go. That is why so many of the outside ones slipped by. Some days are more user friendly than others. And on big days, the left lands you into the heart of the washing machine.

Quality shots man.

Caught a few fun tree footers with occasional four sneaking in. Surfed the beaches and then paddled to the inside reef at 15th. Where the reef meets the sandbar there was a very fun 3-4ft wedge that was tasty. Last wave in was the best corner I've found in weeks. Maybe sesh #2 coming up

If this forecast holds true then SD will have waves mid to late next week, please let there be some big NW windswell at the same time.

Originally Posted by liv2ski

Nice pics!!!!! Felt like Fall this morning

I'll 2nd that. Water and air temps are definitely chilly. Surfed at dawn this morning and just got back from a mellow pm session with the kid. He's too damn skinny to last long in the cold water and was done after 30 minutes. Probably hit scripps early tomorrow am. Hope it continues for a few days.

Originally Posted by BirdRock

just got back from a mellow pm session with the kid.

I always tried to get my girls to surf with me. Started them out on bogie boards when they were small and the older girl actually took some surf lessons, but I could never get any of my girls (wife too) into surfing or skiing. Hopefully, years down the road I will get a few grand kids I can get into dirt bikes, surfing and skiing with the G dad, as my girls were too girly for fun stuff.

I finally got some today. Up the coast. Super glassy. A foot overhead, or so. Crisp, clean. And just a few out. Yes.

OOF, but I still like it. Working on getting it crisp next time.


More pics from the past swell on my blog. yup. wavestoke.blogspot.com

Originally Posted by liv2ski

I always tried to get my girls to surf with me. Started them out on bogie boards when they were small and the older girl actually took some surf lessons, but I could never get any of my girls (wife too) into surfing or skiing. Hopefully, years down the road I will get a few grand kids I can get into dirt bikes, surfing and skiing with the G dad, as my girls were too girly for fun stuff.

I'm blessed with a boy (8) who idolizes me. If I shit in my hand and ate it he'd probably want to do the same. Easy to get him to fish,surf, ski, play soccer, etc. He just does what I do. Hopefully he doesn't pick up any of the bad traits.

Red tide has invaded la jolla. Ugly coffee colored water all weekend. Surf was small today but still fun with no crowd out at 6am.

Late season New Zealand swell? Seas up to 48ft are forecasted, next 24-36hrs will be very telling. Rocktober is one of my favorite months for surf

http://www.stormsurfing.com/cgi/disp...?a=spac_height

man do small days have their advantages.

3 sessions totalling 5 hours with 3 hours just in trunks and a ball cap at the rocks today.

the log made the knee/thigh/occasional waist high waves feel damn near perfect. just me and 3 friends out for the afternoon trunk sesh which had the best waves.

as much as i loved the o-head waves of tuesday, the zero crowds and perfect lefts in trunks were a very welcome reprieve today.

feels like summer, without the crowds, a beautiful thing. more logging tomorrow morning if winds behave.

rog

Originally Posted by Piggity POW

Late season New Zealand swell? Seas up to 48ft are forecasted, next 24-36hrs will be very telling. Rocktober is one of my favorite months for surf

http://www.stormsurfing.com/cgi/disp...?a=spac_height

looks like a lot of that fetch is pointed pretty east. truth in the next 36 hours being telling. we have another round of nw on tap for mid week. the nice thing about up here, as long as the winds stay mellow, there are plenty of places that turn a 8@11, 7@12, 6@13, 5@14 into very very fun waves. Hell, we will even see spots get good when it is as small as 6@10, although I ten to think of 7@11 being the cut off for decent NW waves north of town.

Still, won't mind seeing another good sized south.

yeah, bulk of the energy is moving east at it's peak so less than ideal but should still put a few waves out. Probably inconsistent with island shadowing and the less than ideal track. Still nice to see some energy in both hemis.

It sounds like you guys have a ton of spots to choose from depending on the size, direction and period. Looking forward to some of your photos this upcoming season