Anyone else get some today...?

[Piggity]

Glad you're liking that rusty, $100 seems like a steal if it's in good shape. In winter, places like OB and further south do far better than north county. Seems we haven't really had any blockbuster swells this year, maybe I'm just salty

I surfed with my head up my ass, could not find an open face to save my life.....One of those sessions where you are just awkward and out of sync, despite it being my third session of the weekend.

These 2 sentences are the story of my life. Sometimes I can break it down to a micro situation where 1 wave I surf my very best then the next wave I get pitched into the flats in front of the pack. Decent consistency is almost impossible for me.

[Ottime]

jtran, i suggest going for a paddle especially if it gets windy. Start figuring out how to glide the board, and shift it with your chest. And build up arm strength.

my head is often up my ass. I try to start my session focused and fresh. If that can happen, I do well until I get tired, or make one too many mistakes. Best move I made on Sunday was allowing a big set I ended up inside of wash me into shore, run up the point and paddle out again. If I had tried to fight it, I would have been done for the day, too tired to even get a sloppy wave in. This way I got 4 or 5 more waves and took the last one literally to the beach. Switch. Okay, that last part is a fib.

And Piggity, I agree, no blockbusters. But the last few months have been good for up here. Big enough to keep town going, and an so big that up north (other than spots like Mavs) is a total mess. And the fair weather has been nice to the surf as well. No so much coming this week with the storms. My Tuesday window is looking not as good with the storm moving in fast.

[Piggity]

I prefer 1-2x's OH over the gigantic swells anyway. I respect it but it's not what gets me going. Nice wedging 6-8ft++ A-frame shacks at a nice beach break with a couple friends, beers in a cooler on the beach and glassy conditions all day long.....that's what my ideal surf day would be.

Looks rideable down here all week, hoping to find some glassy conditions but probably not the same nice weather of last week. Was nice while it lasted.

[Ottime]

One to two feet OH or 1-2 times OH?

I used to love double overhead and had to endure the ridicule of my room mate who claimed to prefer triple overhead. I found that at DOH I was very comfortable in the water, having fun and surfing aggressively.

That was 15 years ago, when I worked as a cook and started my job at 3pm. Surfed nearly every day, especially during the winter season. I was not skiing or boarding at all. Just surf. Tried to time each swell for their peak, and headed up the coast when ever local winds allowed.

Now I surf much less often. Now my favorite surf is a foot over head.

As for conditions I've pretty much have always liked cleaned lined up surf. Who doesn't. In Maine I preferred an off shore breeze. It helped with lip development and lining things up. Here, I prefer slack wind and oily glass.

[Ottime]

Oh. Do you mean EC 6-8', WC 6-8', or Hawaiian, or Laird?

[Piggity]

^It varies, some places DOH+ is fun and some places DOH+ can be a night mare - Western Samoa or tahiti for instance. I'm pretty sure I would never want Triple to Quad overhead Tahiti, ever. So places like that are perfect at 6-10' faces, still plenty of adrenaline rush at the heavier spots. Waves pitching square onto fire coral about 18 inches below the surface, fun stuff. On the other hand DOH Blacks Beach is perfect size, much friendlier but still some beatings to be had. I haven't been north of point Conception but I would guess a couple feet overhead at Moss' would be fun stuff.

Surfed nearly every day, especially during the winter season. I was not skiing or boarding at all. Just surf. Tried to time each swell for their peak, and headed up the coast when ever local winds allowed. Now I surf much less often.

Similar story just slight differences and for shorter time frame. Spent a lot of time down in Baja and at Mammy from '99-'05 then after having kids, I still skied and boarded but only a handful of trips a year at Mammoth and the in-laws in CO. Past few years have been injury filled and only logging 10-15 days of skiing, sucks. Surfing has been slower past 2 years but still manage to log a lot of water time


Waves today look fun, marine layer and looking gloomy but wind was slightly offshore earlier and really glassy. Heading out now.

[Ottime]

Have fun. I might get some later. All depends on how fast this storm moves in. Once the SW hits with this guy it will pretty much be all done.

Trying to decide between a tour day Sat., or convincing the mrs. to head up for Friday maybe powder day. She has a grading day scheduled, so she is working from home.

Anyway, cold and cloudy at the playground.

[Piggity]

The wind picked up as I paddled out and then died as soon as I got out, seriously. Kinda fun considering. You still heading down in April?

[Ottime]

A few random shots from the winter so far. Mostly right at the Lane, but a few from along West Cliff and up the coast. But mainly right at the lighthouse. Just an easy spot to hang with my son and try to get a few. More at the blog

October was pretty sunny and fun to start off the month.


While checking out the sea lions on the wharf, you can still get a good view of the lineup.


A nice looking section to be getting lined up.


Up north has had a few good days. I got this one shot at least.


A few days went overhead, even in town.


Wish I got a crisper shot of this one.

[jtran10]

Had a great LB session this morning. About waist high at Terramar. Some nice, long rights with only 1 other guy out. No lulls in the sets either.

[ate'em]

thanks for the pice ottime, and everyone else too really
just booked a week at san elijo for october, cant come soon enough
miss that big blue, it never gets out of me

[icelanticskier]

surf building here EC. ne winds and chop fest this am. chest plus, but had to get the new board wet. was blown away at how it paddles, glides, and goes from rail to rail with such smooth precision and quickness. the board just feels right in every way. nice to have it feel like that in such terrible conditions.

check it out, bought the 5'10 x 19.25 x 2.38. 27.8 ltr. perfect for my 165lb frame.

should be great from thigh groundswell to as big as i'll paddle out in round here.

http://www.firewiresurfboards.com/su...st_mini-driver

surf gonna get huge with stupid winds. may get good by sunday.

rog

[Piggity]

Nice photos ottime, look like some fun waves.

Little bit of drizzle this morning and it felt like I had a fever when I woke up. Spent some time with my little guy until mid morning. Report says 2-3' buddy calls saying its looks good. Check the cam and realized it was glassy and nugs rolling through.

Stayed glassy until about lunch time. First wave I saw roll in, crappy cell phone photo from 300+ yards down the beach.





Ate'em, October is a good time of year. Sometimes NW/SW combo swells with santa anas, sometimes not though. I think you'll have wifi at san elijo and pipes makes a mean breakfast, camping at it's finest.

[jtran10]

nice pic piggity. Empty lineup too! Midday weekday, lucky.

Had 3 sessions the last couple days. Wed. Am and PM, Thursday PM. Wed AM waves were all crossed up, ended up calling it earlier than I had to. Had been out 4 of 5 days at that point and arms were just too tired. Then, since I'm an addict, forgot I was tired and went out again with the "new" Rusty after work. Really figuring out how to paddle that thing more efficiently. Still need to work on my duck diving..I was kicking the board down wtih my knee, not my foot. Whoops. Caught my first 3 waves on the shortboard wed. PM, all kinda walled but was up enough to get the feeling of the super turny fast board. I like.

Took Thurs AM off and went out again after work yesterday. Took the LB thinking it'd be a nice mellow tons-of-waves type session, but I didn't realize the NW had filled in so much. Sets were 6-7 feet in front of the water station in Cbad. For whatever reason that spot seems to pull in NW energy a lot better than Tamarack or Terramar..always a bit bigger than those 2 places with any N in the swell.

Ended up only getting 2 waves in the time I was out. Was sitting too far inside looking for the more frequent 4 footers, then a bomb would roll through and make me paddle to keep my position for several minutes. Then, I'd be outside waiting for sets and get anxious again and paddle at a smaller wave, then be inside when the big sets came through, etc etc. Ended up being in the right place and caught a huge set wave, probably my biggest wave so far..1-2 feet overhead. Closed out real quickly but the drop was quite the rush.

Will be in Newport this weekend, probably getting out to surf Sunday AM

[Ottime]

Hanging on the easy side this AM with my boy. Forgot the camera. The Hook is maybe head high. 30 guys on it. 20 at Sharks. 5 at the next point, that is not even breaking. Seriously? First peak looks like it has ten or so and the point proper is not too crowded.

That looks like a nice lineup Pigs. I'm gonna be in your neck of the woods again April 14-19. Let's ski andr surf. Any snow in those hills yet?

[Piggity]

Thanks guys, nothing epic but a nice surprise session. To be honest, i saw more good waves than I caught, still fun but just one of those off rhythm days. Sick as a dawg today, caught the flu and got me some cold sweats since last night.

Little bit of snow this year but seems a long time in-between systems allows it to melt out. Plus some cold storms so lot of it probably blew off the mountain. Some snow this weekend, hopefully March turns things around and it will be prime for April. Probably not but optimism prevails.

[ate'em]

great pic piggity-
i was out last oct in san elijo, it was cranking when i first showed up the last of september, then off and on but mostly small-ish.
anyway it goes, its good to get wet.
with a donut in hand from vg's, it is truly camping at its finest.

[Ottime]

Some snow this weekend, hopefully March turns things around and it will be prime for April. Probably not but optimism prevails.

If the snow does not pan out, I can always travel south for a day of waves. Would love to get back to Tahquitz with a snowpack that goes to the parking lot tho.

[Piggity]

snowpack to the parking lot, now that's what i'm talking about. Too bad we'll probably have to save that for another year

[icelanticskier]

oceans been quite active for the last few weeks with most days well ohead. problem with this swell is that the winds were not very cooperative, at all. got out last wednesday to get the new board wet in shit, but not miserable conditions. then i waited 6 days till monday night to check out the other york famous wave as the winds were south and the place was quite a scene. busy with cars lined up, doods watching, doods surfing, and the fickle heavy wave thumping. caught a few, but stayed away from the crowds as it was kind of a shit show. at least it was clean. yay.

things finally cleaned up over night and this morning was chest/head, clean and pretty much just me out cept for a coupla guys that paddled out as i was getting out. the new mini driver is so much fun! quick and flickable. working a half day today so i can get a 2nd 2 hour session in this evening

tomorrow looks fun as well...

rog

[jtran10]

too bad we get the summer weather with no swell this week

Went out with the 6 3 to practice yesterday anyhow. Got a bit better duck diving, a lot better paddling into waves, but nothing I caught opened enough to really do anything besides feel the board under my feet. Hoping to get a session tonight if there's any waves at all (haven't check cams today and was too foggy this morning to see beyond the beach). Loving spring forward.

[icelanticskier]

keep at it jtran!

tonight was titties. left work after a torturous 12-4pm shift to pull in the driveway to find my that my gal had left work early to catch a surf with me. clean chest/shoulder w/ head sets and clean. much better lined up than this am. got some fun ones fer sure on the new 5'10 mini driver. lovin the firewire feel.

stoked for morning!!! ogt here i come!

rog

[Ottime]

You sure leave work early a lot.

Funny that Shorts is busy these days. I've only been around a bit when the black ball is not in effect, but the 5 or so times I surfed there I was solo or just with a buddy. Everyone knew there was a wave there, but it was rarely surfed. Maine sounds like it is getting crowded.

[icelanticskier]

You sure leave work early a lot.

my job is VERY flexible and it's a slow time of year for me from mid jan till mid april. i get 6 weeks paid time off that i can take as single hours as i want, so yes i leave work early A LOT. lots of double session days

Funny that Shorts is busy these days. I've only been around a bit when the black ball is not in effect, but the 5 or so times I surfed there I was solo or just with a buddy. Everyone knew there was a wave there, but it was rarely surfed. Maine sounds like it is getting crowded.

still nothing like nh. the ogt rivermouth this morning was the best i've EVER surfed it. solid head with 2' ohead sets breaking just off the point with light wsw winds and only a half dozen of us out all morning. holy fuck was it good. and so easy, way easier than weird sandbar longsands has been. forgot what's it's like to effortlessly slide into a wave and just have the thing perfectly stand up the whole way.

was super nice to get the new board in perfectly formed powerful surf. the board is insane. sticks like glue.

tomorrow morning should be good for a coupla hours more of fun chest high sets there. gonna set up the mini as a quad for tomorrow to see how she handles. may be selling the 5'8" sprocket soon. may have found my new one board quiver.

rog

[Ottime]

my job is VERY flexible and it's a slow time of year for me from mid jan till mid april.

rog

Sounds seasonal? Male prostitute for the Ogunquit summer crowd? Good pay and reasonable hours, eh?

And that river mouth can get soooo good. Especially off season when there are not 500 beckies in the line up