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  1. #26
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cruzing
    Posts
    11,911
    Been a good run. Eyes shift east. Things look pretty for NE. Our next chance looks like some activity in the north a week out. Will need to see how it progresses.

    Wednesday had some size up here. I had to get out early and it was a bit too low tide, a bit too much water to really work. Still fun getting into some overhead. py iPhone pic, but


    Thursday morning was spot on, but the fog had returned. Nicely lined up with a few going for a 100 yards.


    Found some fun little ones this morning before the wind turned back on. Hoping September pans out as well as the past few months.

  2. #27
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cruzing
    Posts
    11,911
    This one is going to get big.

  3. #28
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Everybody Knows This Is Nowhere
    Posts
    6,587
    Just in time for me to go to Florida.
    Putting the "core" in corporate, one turn at a time.

    Metalmücil 2010 - 2013 "Go Home" album is now a free download

    The Bonin Petrels

  4. #29
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Tokyo
    Posts
    230
    Not only is it gonna be big but it looks like the weather's gonna be just about perfect down here in SD. We're not going to get the direct energy of that storm but it should be really fun. Calling for temps in the 80's and strong offshore winds. From wetsand:

    Wednesday the 3rd is when the NW swell arrives in full force. Most west facing breaks are looking at surf running a couple feet overhead. Standout west facing breaks are looking at DOH surf (or slightly bigger). South facing breaks working the wrap are looking at head high surf.

    Thursday the 4th the NW should back down some, about head high around most west facing breaks and 2-3 overhead at standouts.

    Friday the 5th is looking like a head high day around most all west facing breaks.

    Saturday the 6th looks similar so far.
    God created skis and surfboards to keep the truly gifted from ruling the world.

  5. #30
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    3,265
    I have an actuary exam on Friday morning, so I'm really hoping Friday afternoon and Saturday deliver in OC.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  6. #31
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    nyc
    Posts
    469
    2-4 out on Long Island today. Nice afternoon.

    Might row over to NJ tomw. Sh be 3-5-ish, clean. Wind offshore.

    Bit nippy.

  7. #32
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cruzing
    Posts
    11,911
    Finally got back out. I totally missed Tues/Wed and did not even get to see the water.

    Heard Mitchell's was epic. 3' overhead and roping. With 100 of your best friends.

    Scotts last night was fun a bit over head. until the tide dropped out and it got weird.

    This morning I was expecting to high of a tide. Not much between the sets, but a bit to 3' overhead, thick, ledgey, glassy, hollow and fast was the order of the day. May have been the best session yet for the season. I certainly got one of my top five wave. And two guys out.

    Looks good through tomorrow at least, with more on the way beyond. And it may snow as well.

    Quote Originally Posted by WICS View Post
    2-4 out on Long Island today. Nice afternoon.

    Might row over to NJ tomw. Sh be 3-5-ish, clean. Wind offshore.

    Bit nippy.
    Where on LI? I was a Rockaway (90th) regular a ways back.

  8. #33
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    nyc
    Posts
    469
    National blvd (about 5 streets west of Lincoln), Long Beach

    Didn't make it out today

  9. #34
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Everybody Knows This Is Nowhere
    Posts
    6,587
    It's totally epic in Sarasota right now!























    (I'd paddle out if I had a board)
    Putting the "core" in corporate, one turn at a time.

    Metalmücil 2010 - 2013 "Go Home" album is now a free download

    The Bonin Petrels

  10. #35
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Kodiak, AK
    Posts
    544
    small and clean today here in kansas. finally in the water after mega rainstorm knocks out the entire country
    I've got the key to the highway... I'm gonna leave here runnin', walkin's far too slow

  11. #36
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Brohemia
    Posts
    2,324
    Santa Cruz has definitely been fun. The epic mega huge hype swell wasn't as pleasurable as anticipated, but after it peaked it seemed to only get better. The sidewalk at Natural Bridges provided some nice hidey-holes and lil wind 'n sea was a fun as I can remember in quite some time. No barrelless session the past 4 days equals great times.

  12. #37
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cruzing
    Posts
    11,911
    It has been a good run in SC. Saturday morning up the coast was pretty damn nice.

    I found some very nice waves at the sidewalk a week ago Friday. I had forgotten how much fun that wave can be. Big and weird on the outside, lining up long and deep on the ledge. Hidey-holes indeed.

    Need to talk a work call this morning, and I am glad, because it is chilly out there.

    Looks like we are in the fall pattern. I can't remember my last sub head high session.

  13. #38
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    SFCA
    Posts
    1,354
    Irving to Kelly's was awesome today. Offshore all day, sunny, clean, head high and very easy to get into for OB. There's hope for this season yet!
    "Yo!! Brentley! Ya wanna get faded before work?"

  14. #39
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    7,167

    cowhampshire this morning

    swell overhyped. sometimes best kind.

    looked at the cams this morning and couldn't see squat due to a redonkulously high tide. saw 4 ft at 12 seconds with light offshores tho. good day for the blunt.

    headed over to have a look and many popular spots were empty. guess most other folks rolled back over after looking at the cams, i almost did, glad i didn't.

    showed up at RR and saw just 2 dudes bobbing in the water. looked good as i pulled up as a set was coming through. paddled out with another dood as those 2 other doods were finishing up, leaving just the 2 of us for the next hour plus. we just traded lefts back and forth the whole time and remarked how great it was to have such a popular spot all to ourselves. waves were supposed to be much bigger, but we both agreed that we'd rather have perfect smaller waves and no crowds.

    the tide was so much higher than normal that we were surfing right over an area that is most often a very exposed rocky point littered with boulders. twas fun to ride right across the whole thing with those boulders visible just a couple/few feet below the surface.

    should be fun in the morning with some snow possible.

    anyone else riding lost surfboards out there? love my blunt! only board i own and ride year round.

    end novel

    rog

  15. #40
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    SFCA
    Posts
    1,354
    ^^^I like the shape of the Blunt, but I'll never buy a ...Lost board again. I ordered a Rocket last Spring, and it took them 18 weeks to finish it. When the board arrived, there were minor pressure dings on the bottom. I figure, no big deal, it'll look like that in a month anyway. It kind of spoiled ordering a custom board, though. So, mine was epoxy, and I told him my weight and height (240#, 6'2"). The board was made of eggshells. It developed pinholes on the first session. Never seen this on an epoxy board before, and I've owned plenty. Pressure dents were horrible. It looked like a golf ball in 5 days. Also, he put too much tail rocker in it. For a board that's supposed to be for small-medium surf, the tail rocker made it almost impossible to take off on anything under 6'. For such a hyped company and model, I'm pretty disappointed with them.
    "Yo!! Brentley! Ya wanna get faded before work?"

  16. #41
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    7,167

    YIKES

    Quote Originally Posted by BS720 View Post
    ^^^I like the shape of the Blunt, but I'll never buy a ...Lost board again. I ordered a Rocket last Spring, and it took them 18 weeks to finish it. When the board arrived, there were minor pressure dings on the bottom. I figure, no big deal, it'll look like that in a month anyway. It kind of spoiled ordering a custom board, though. So, mine was epoxy, and I told him my weight and height (240#, 6'2"). The board was made of eggshells. It developed pinholes on the first session. Never seen this on an epoxy board before, and I've owned plenty. Pressure dents were horrible. It looked like a golf ball in 5 days. Also, he put too much tail rocker in it. For a board that's supposed to be for small-medium surf, the tail rocker made it almost impossible to take off on anything under 6'. For such a hyped company and model, I'm pretty disappointed with them.
    wow, sorry to hear of your negative experience with them. i'm on my second lost and love it more than the last.

    be well.

    rog

  17. #42
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cruzing
    Posts
    11,911
    How was OB?

    A bit jumbled down here, but most fun waves I've had this month.

    I kept looking for the right wave to take in today. It took me over an hour, and a collection of six or so waves. None were quite "good enough." Finally, exhausted, I paddled into a nice walled up bigger set. A little slow on my take off, I dropped, lost my fins, was dragged over the falls, held under, and finally bounced off the reef. I decided this one was good enough.

  18. #43
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    risin up to paradise...
    Posts
    352
    Found some nice long period waves in Del Norte. Fun, clean, head high plus. Looks good all week, with the high pressure and dwindling pow, good timing. As friendly as Nor Cal winter surfing could be. Anyone else getting this swell??

  19. #44
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cruzing
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    Looks to be good this AM, but I am still sore from two days of skinning and dropping. Might get out there, or wait until the next swell arrives tonight. A killer week for sure with long periods and easterly winds.

  20. #45
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Deep Playa
    Posts
    4,824
    Quote Originally Posted by Ottime View Post
    Looks to be good this AM, but I am still sore from two days of skinning and dropping. Might get out there, or wait until the next swell arrives tonight. A killer week for sure with long periods and easterly winds.
    xxxxxx has been fucking going off it's fucking tit the past 4 days. Double overhead a-frames.


    Checked a certain spot as well but it was just starting to break. I'm not about to paddle out for a solo session with 30 minute lulls while the men in grey are cruising around

  21. #46
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    SFCA
    Posts
    1,354
    Didn't make it out to the outside of the first pic on Tuesday. Serious fucking juice.
    "Yo!! Brentley! Ya wanna get faded before work?"

  22. #47
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cruzing
    Posts
    11,911
    Quote Originally Posted by Superstar Punani View Post
    I'm not about to paddle out for a solo session with 30 minute lulls while the men in grey are cruising around
    You never called; so I went skiing. Seriously though, the men in grey are rarely interested.

    Based on that pic, I imagine Scotts was roping. If I can get enough work done this morning, I might be able to sneak a session in.

  23. #48
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Deep Playa
    Posts
    4,824
    Quote Originally Posted by BS720 View Post
    Didn't make it out to the outside of the first pic on Tuesday. Serious fucking juice.
    This week was fucking rad. Just big and perfect. I've flown halfway around the world to score the tropical version of those waves and here they are right here except it's cold as fuck.

    The stiff offshores made every late takeoff blind. Nothing like dropping down a 10-12' face by Braille.

    Paddle outs ranged from 10 min to 45 min. Also got some of the longest holddowns I've had in awhile.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ottime
    You never called; so I went skiing. Seriously though, the men in grey are rarely interested.
    Sorry I'll program your cell. I thought you were still in Gnarnia I took the 9'6 rhino chaser out and realized I couldn't duckdive it. 10-12'+ OB is not the ideal place to get a new board wired.

  24. #49
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    93108
    Posts
    2,760
    Quote Originally Posted by Superstar Punani View Post
    Sorry I'll program your cell. I thought you were still in Gnarnia I took the 9'6 rhino chaser out and realized I couldn't duckdive it. 10-12'+ OB is not the ideal place to get a new board wired.
    I could have used that gun this past week in hanalei.

  25. #50
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Burlington, VT
    Posts
    302
    Quote Originally Posted by it solutioners.p View Post
    hey, can anyone share the surrffing rules?
    Surfline's Bill of Lefts and Rights: http://www.surfline.com/surfology/su...borl_index.cfm
    "Some folks look for answers
    Others look for fights
    Some folks up in treetops
    Just look to see the sights"

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