Thread: Anyone else get some today...?

Heheh. Usually, that sign is little more blurry than that

after surfing like crap in good waves yesterday, today i surfed like i like to in the junkiest crap imaginable. funneh how that works sometimes. choppy waist+ but the rocks had just 2 guys out and the ledge was lining and cleaning up the junk enough for even the placebo epoxy rocket to not get tossed around.

wind goes offshore for the morning with swell still present. looking forward to not having to work till noon.

rog

Not much on tap for Orange County until late in the week. Swell watch is saying the Trestles area will have something Friday and Saturday, as in something in the chest high range, which is exciting to me after this last weekend. I might be able to leave the office a bit early on Friday, and get an afternoon session.

I was hoping to surf Saturday morning in newport, but it looks like even getting mediocre surf will require a Trestles drive.

I hope to get into the water on Thursday, as a little SW swell is forecasted then and Friday. I have been really lame over the last 3 months and haven't surfed much for one reason or another. With the wife off for the summer and business super slow, I ordered a new 2mm short sleeve full suit for the early am session. Now I just need a little surf to get me moving.

the groundswell continues, but with an uptick and more favorable winds. what was choppy waist + yesterday became perfect walled up offshore cleanliness. due to a bunch o south in the wind i drove a few miles south over the mass/nh border where the beaches face more north. nh beaches had a lil texture going on, can't have that. waist/chest/shoulder hollow dump you on yer ass if you missed the drop, surf. this particular break snaps boards even when the waves are just head high. felt just like a spot i surfed on the caribbean coast this winter. pick a corner, any corner. any hesitation or even an extra blink of an eye and you were too far behind. the ones made tho were fucking rocket fast. good reading day fer sure.

swell should pick up a lil bit more for the evening session. stoked for that. morning looks good too with even better winds for all beaches.

git sum!

rog

L2S, my water time was been minimal past few months too. No real reason for it either, just lack of motivation. Let's surf if you head up to N. County.

Despite my lack of water time recently, I did manage to paddle out on Saturday and catch a few fun ones. Waist high on average with 1 set that came through about nipple high. Caught a few fun turns, felt the sunshine fill my soul and super mellow vibe in the lineup. Overall a pretty fun day considering the meager surf.

Went down to Old Mans in SC today, basically to play with the dog but I had my fingers crossed that there might be a wave or two. Looks like some surf for this weekend though...

Didn’t quite work out for me but the mutt had a blast.







A little afternoon radiation to keep me healthy...

“everywhere I look something reminds me of her"

Been having fun with the windswell the past few weeks. Found out on of my summer spots gets quite fun with an 8@10 and a little SW combo. We have the 8@10 this morning and just a tad of background south. Feeding the boy, waking mom, and then checking it out. Now i just need a proper board

I'd kill for some 8@10 right now

the nh fun continues....

after the dredging sandspitting fun in mass yesterday morning followed by a mellow waist high forever long ride night session in southern maine after work last night, my 2 sessions this am were just as good if not better. rye beach was small but perfectly formed thigh high rocket-able surf followed by an all of a sudden super fun late morning session at the wall. waist high sets with power. some perfect a-frames. at work now constructing a plan to get out early for session #3 tonight.

soooooo good. waves for dayz.

rog

I blew my first funemployment check on this...


...and a month of funemployment checks is spancering a trip to here:




Meanwhile, it's onshore 2-3 foot closeouts

nice use of it!^^^^^^^^

back to walden pond for nh. size really dropped yesterday afternoon so i did other things. looks like some activity for mid late next week. gonna be landlocked in northern vermont the next 3 days. will be tolerable knowing i won't be missing any wave action.

looking forward to seeing/reading some cali stoke!

hot as ballz here

rog

Nice purchase(s), what dimensions on the board? I have a small wave board but put a thumbtail on it and it's really versatile, doesn't slide out in overhead hollow conditions. I used to only have round pins/thumbs on my big wave boards but my point of view is changing

5'11 x 18 3/4 x 2 1/4 Semi Pro 12. My old ones are 6'2" Tangent / Rookie and I needed something looser but still kept it together in the solid juice.

I needed something looser but still kept it together in the solid juice.

That's how I'd describe my board. I dropped from a 6'2" to a 5'10"x19.25x2.4 and threw that round tail on it, exceeded my expectations. Maybe it's just the angle of the photo but looks like there's a decent amount of rocker on that board

More Superstar Punani less Icelanticskier

nice don. looks like you are on the governors surf team. we bought a house with my funemployment and all my boards are ancient. then the mrs. explained that i won't be able to surf as much once i go back for work, so i should just dip into the safety funds and replace my daily driver. so, did you get that stick for $450, or did you use more than one check? at that price, i could forego the epoxy last forever model.

seeing i designed my current board something like a decade ago, i need a schooling. And like supu and piggity, i need something loose and fun in the small stuff, but can still dig and grab when it hits head high and hollow... suggestions?

I have a five fin model of this: http://www.rustysurf.com/website/sur...rmance/slayer/
If I took a trip with only one board, this might be it. Easily the most versatile board I own. Not the best in knee slappers, but anything chest and up.

I talked with the shaper at Rusty yesterday and he answered a few of my questions about their various shapes. Before talking with him, I was set on the slayer as my everyday board but he said it performs better in hollow waves and less so in smaller surf.

He initially suggested the Dozer and then the more we talked he suggested the Slackerr. I'm heading over to the shop on Monday and we're going to measure the volume of my current board and then make sure my next board has the exact volume I need, then finalize the dimensions. Probably 6'0" x 19.25 x 2.4 - give or take

http://www.rustysurf.com/website/sur...ryday/slacker/

A bit bigger than waist high in Newport today. Not great, but some pretty fun little peaks. It was one of those days where you paddle out and it ends up being better than it looks.

The water cooled down a bit. I was glad I wore a 3/2.

^Right on^ It was waist to chest high in San Clemente today (trail 6) but the wind got to it early. I stopped @ Salt Creek for a body surf session in the afternoon south of the point since it looked like a ship sank with only emo teenagers & hipster dufuses aboard from the point to gravels. Super fun, chest high, shore break neck breakers were a plenty with the occasional eye-spy barrel to be had.

Managed to snap a pic of State Park in SC before I headed south.


Dude, where the fuck is everyone going?


I lost a good friend today. Bought in 1987 at Groggs in Seaside Park NJ they have seen their share of action, RIP my old friend...

Just got back from the Rusty shop and I'm a huge fan. I met with one of Rusty's shapers, Pedro, and he is by far the coolest guy I've worked with while ordering a board. I think it might have been Josh Kerr that called while I was sitting in his office, regardless it really got me thinking, why would this guy spend almost an hour working with me on board design. I have no idea why but I must say it's the best customer service I've ever seen in an industry where customer service is non-existent. I haven't even ridden the board yet and I can almost certainly say my next board will also come from Rusty, I learned a lot in that 1 hour.

Originally Posted by Ottime

seeing i designed my current board something like a decade ago, i need a schooling. And like supu and piggity, i need something loose and fun in the small stuff, but can still dig and grab when it hits head high and hollow... suggestions?

late to the party on this. big mayhem fan here. check this out http://www.lostenterprises.com/surfb...ls/mini-driver

grabbed a coupla small days here nh yesterday and today. knee/thigh/occ waist high sets. borrowed an 8' board yesterday. rode like an 8' board, yay. rode my 5'9 rocket today and a borrowed 9'. rocket wins every time. tiny waves that were quick and punchy. better than not getting wet.

more to come in the next bunck of days. right tide/right spot.

rog

Originally Posted by Ottime

so, did you get that stick for $450, or did you use more than one check?

And like supu and piggity, i need something loose and fun in the small stuff, but can still dig and grab when it hits head high and hollow... suggestions?

A friend of a friend is friends with a CI rep. Those guys get $400 boards. Friend of a friend orders like 5 boards at a time, test rides all of them, then keeps 2 and sells the other 3 to his bro-brahs at the same price.

As for your all rounder, go with something shorter, wider and thicker. One of my other buds, who's also a skier/surfer rare combo breed, made an observation that board design is going the way of ski design: shorter and wider. Take your usual shortboard, reduce the length by 3-4", increase width by 3/4-1", thickness at least 2 3/8", rounded or thumb tail, sharp rails, concave middle to vee tail and you should be good to go.

The shorter/wider/thicker boards are where it's at, I've been a firm believer for 5+ years in these shapes. More paddle power but because it's shorter you get quick snappy turns like a standard shortboard. Adding more volume in the nose seems to add paddle power but leave it really responsive (Rather than distributing too much additional volume through the entire board and possibly softening the rail near the tail, you'd lose responsiveness)

I learned a lot yesterday. Maybe others are already onto this but I think calculating the volume (in liters) is priority #1 and then you can fit the dimensions of your board within that volume.

I haven't ordered a custom in a few years and I quickly realized how things have changed. The key now is precisely measuring the Volume, which will give you precise measurements of the float you can expect. Until yesterday I was guessing how thick/wide I needed (Based off of previous board dimensions). Sometimes I would add a little here or take a little off there, without knowing how that exactly impacted the volume for float.

He said those small changes can impact the volume more than you think and sometimes you can lose volume when you think you are increasing volume (in cases where you add a little width but take a little thickness off or similar). I'm 5'10" 215lbs and he is suggesting something in the 33L or 34L range. I told him I want a 6'0" Rusty Slackerr and he's now calculating the rest of the dimensions to meet the 33L of float that I need. It makes more sense to measure volume, it seems to be more precise than taking a guess at the float certain dimensions will provide.