Thread: Anyone else get some today...?

This week looks fun down there. Enjoy, and post up some stoke! I am out of the water for the next three months!

Originally Posted by BS720

I am out of the water for the next three months!

ouch, hope things work out

Delaminated patellar tendon. At least it's not September! Time to get boards ordered for this winter. Thanks, man.

Figures. Heading to Troncones Mexico for 5 days on Friday and bruise/cracked a rib this morning. Pretty nice morning out. Nothing big, just banged my board on the rib and its definitely sore. Damn...

May consider a 2mm jacket, just for protection. Couldn't hurt(if you will).

It's a trend. My back spasmed yesterday morning as I put my son in his high chair. Been tight ever since. Doubt I'll be able to get in the water this week.

Comish, at least you are headed to Troncones. Surf there is meh, unless you get a solid south for the bay just north, or real broken up peaks for the beach break. relax and enjoy the beach life. Kick back a few, and grab seafood.

Gotta say, I quite enjoyed Troncones last fall. Uncrowded, Saladita is like a left Malibu and what isn't to like about that. Troncones Point isn't anything amazing, but I would still take it over an average beach break... At least its not 40 of your best friends as in Costa Rica at any good point/reef break.

Originally Posted by comish

Gotta say, I quite enjoyed Troncones last fall. Uncrowded, Saladita is like a left Malibu and what isn't to like about that. Troncones Point isn't anything amazing, but I would still take it over an average beach break... At least its not 40 of your best friends as in Costa Rica at any good point/reef break.

I have seen some shots of Troncones, and it looks pretty damn fun. I'm not sure how consistent it is, but a shoulder high reverse Malibu without a million people out sounds incredible.

There are some good shots of both Saladita and Troncones point on wannasurf. It makes me want to surf both of those spots, although I would not plan a trip there without more info on how consistently they break. One thing I will say about Costa Rica is that the Jaco/Playa Hermosa area is super consistent. You pretty much know you will get shoulder high beachbreaks, and it will probably be almost head high.

Originally Posted by comish

At least its not 40 of your best friends as in Costa Rica at any good point/reef break.

ah, waking up too late i see. CR breaks, even the great ones are just you more than likely so long as you surf from 1st light till 645am or 7am at the latest. then the hordes hit it till 10 or so, then more for you from 11-1. at least thats' how it's worked for me on both the caribbean and pacific coasts.

new hampshire on the other hand is downright scary uncrowded most days of the year if you do it right. this morning was just another example of country club small yet perfectly formed perfection. supposed to last a good week or so. been a pretty good year at the right tide/spot.

some 80 degree water would be nice to have again tho

rog

Damn guys, hope the achilles and back heal up quick. I'm usually bummed about a delammed board never mind an achilles.

So I'm officially not a surfer anymore. I'm not logging enough water time so I have to give up my surf badge. That said, how dumb would it be if I cleaned up my surf wax scraper and doubled it as a ski wax scraper? I lost my scraper and this seems like the next logical substitute before sliding on snow this weekend.

Heh, when I put my foot through my Firewire's rail, my first thought was, FUCK, this is going to be expensive. When I realized I couldn't walk, I realized the tab just went up substantially.

nuther fine day cowhampshire surf. waist/chest/shoulder glassy fun all alone this am from 7-9 at a very well formed beach break.

winds on it now, but should kick back round for more morning fun. looks to be fun stuff through till friday next week. perfect weather too.

heal well^^^^^^

rog

the small fun swell continues.......

busy morning so decided to wait till later and let the weekend "crowds" paddle their arms off. about noon or so the swell started to bump up and period lengthen a bit. what was 2.6 @ 8 became 4.3 @ 10 by 4pm and stayed in that range all afternoon. checked some spots. wind was a bit on it causing a slight bit o sickness, but then i drove by rye rocks and what do ya know? no one out on a sunny saturday afternoon with shoulder high sets and a shallow boiling rock reef all for me. no one else would join. love that. conditions were MUCH cleaner than the beaches.

amazing how easy it is to score empty waves in the most obvious places while hundreds of cars with boards drive by constantly. "hmmm, only one guy out, must not be very good."

more tomorrow......

rog

AM/PM sessions today. Summer is coming. Trunked it with a vest on this evening. Saw the eclipse for 20 minutes or so before the marine layer came back and covered it up.

Last week has been fun. No huge swell but consistent waist/chest high surf for several days with some better waves occasionally. My buddy bought a 7'8 1972 G&S single fin off craigslist on Friday for $100 as a summer board and I spent some time on it this morning. Pretty fun riding something old and totally different.

^^Nice. Pretty early for the trunking to start. Last year was a shitshow. Soon as I heal up and a southie rolls in, I'm heading down the coast.

nuther coupla waist/chest/shoulder days here nh makes 5 out of 5 with the best yet to come, especially wednesday when we could see head/o head drops and continued favorable winds.

funny that today, a monday was the busiest at the rocks even compared to the weekend. 5 or 6 of us today, busy.

the 5'9 rocket continues to impress. switched the stock fins to k 2.1's. amazing the difference. loosened the board up yet added a ton o drive.

not a bad spring so far........

rog

Originally Posted by icelanticskier

the small fun swell continues.......

busy morning so decided to wait till later and let the weekend "crowds" paddle their arms off. about noon or so the swell started to bump up and period lengthen a bit. what was 2.6 @ 8 became 4.3 @ 10 by 4pm and stayed in that range all afternoon. checked some spots. wind was a bit on it causing a slight bit o sickness, but then i drove by rye rocks and what do ya know? no one out on a sunny saturday afternoon with shoulder high sets and a shallow boiling rock reef all for me. no one else would join. love that. conditions were MUCH cleaner than the beaches.

amazing how easy it is to score empty waves in the most obvious places while hundreds of cars with boards drive by constantly. "hmmm, only one guy out, must not be very good."

more tomorrow......

rog

This entire post is spot on NE. I especially like seeing the period bumping up to 10s. That actually can break pretty nicely up there. Around here, you might find a wedge on a sand bottom that might do something at 8/10s, but not really.

This week is all wind and no waves. Still, had fun on a few on the egg yesterday for my hour break from cleaning the new house. Not a bad week for minimal surf with so much work on the list.

Originally Posted by Ottime

This entire post is spot on NE. I especially like seeing the period bumping up to 10s. That actually can break pretty nicely up there. Around here, you might find a wedge on a sand bottom that might do something at 8/10s, but not really.

This week is all wind and no waves. Still, had fun on a few on the egg yesterday for my hour break from cleaning the new house. Not a bad week for minimal surf with so much work on the list.

ya man, as fickle as it can be, there aren't too many days that i can't surf my rocket. haven't touched a long board in almost 10 years cept for a coupla times on borrowed last year. we have a few spots that work so well on a 6-8 second period, most work on 8-10, and of course the reefs and points work beyond that. when we get it.

this morning was classic rocks. low tide and folding over the ledge. glassy. the mid sized ones that broke over "wave count" were walling up so nicely all of the way through to the inside. make the drop, deep bottom turn, hit the lip hard while waving to da boyz, repeat, then a big wrap around to set you up for the ripper zipper inside section. a full on love all of my tail rocker pump fest. too much fun!

let me know when yer coming out this way for a visit. maybe we'll catch a few.

back out in the a.m. for 7 out of the last 8 days o fun. so long as the buoys hold.

rog

May has been a fun one down in Orange County. It has been pretty consistent, and the last few weekends have really been good. I always like this time of year, as it stays light enough for me to get in an after office session or two a week, as well as getting weekends. We have had at least chest high surf pretty steadily all month, and the water is starting to warm up.

The only problem with my surfing in May, is that I suck more than usual, since most of my winter/spring weekends are devoted to skiing and it's hard to get after work winter sessions. My first few weekends back I am even more awkward than usual, but I am starting to feel a bit more at ease.

While the conditions have been more fun than epic, it is still nice to count on surf whenever you can get a session in.

I have spent more time in the water in every other coastal county in CA OTHER than OC. I don't know why, but the second I head south, it goes flat or blows out. My luck. I have only surfed Cuntington Beach, and I never get that without wind. I may try midweek this fall sometime.

Originally Posted by BS720

I have spent more time in the water in every other coastal county in CA OTHER than OC. I don't know why, but the second I head south, it goes flat or blows out. My luck. I have only surfed Cuntington Beach, and I never get that without wind. I may try midweek this fall sometime.

During the fall is when you might get those off-shores and combo swells. Other than that, with HB you either hit it early, or deal with some wind on it. HB is super consistent, if you want to get wet you almost always can, but it is still mediocre most of the time. That being said, you can surf it almost every afternoon if you want to, it just probably won't be very good.

Newport has wind issues too, but I find that if I leave the office, grab my board, head to the beach and suit up, it usually cleans up in the evening. It still might be a bit bumpy, but you can get it pretty fun most evenings in the summer.

If there is enough swell, and newps/hb are blown out, I head down to the Trestles area, which deals with wind a whole lot better. I don't surf lowers, but middles/uppers/barbedwies/cottons are all great spots, and they handle wind much better than hb. Salt Creek handles wind pretty well too, but I always find it absurdly crowded, so if I'm going to head down I tend to go to Trestles.

If you get slumington on one of those combo swell/offshore fall days......

only have surfed salt creek once. did not seem crowded at all. maybe eight guys surfing the peak, and a bunch of groms on the inside.

been out on the rick the past two days. she turns 50 next year. great way to get some waves on the small, weak days.

Originally Posted by Ottime

only have surfed salt creek once. did not seem crowded at all. maybe eight guys surfing the peak, and a bunch of groms on the inside.

been out on the rick the past two days. she turns 50 next year. great way to get some waves on the small, weak days.

You are lucky to get Salt Creek like that. If you go during the week, it is not so bad, but on the weekends it gets pretty slammed. During the summer they blackball some of it, which limits the number of peaks available. I prefer Newport, Huntington and Trestles, just because there are so many more peaks in those stretches.

Lowers takes the cake for socal crowds. I love the wave, but I don't surf it because of the crowds.

I am a long way from the ocean but have been getting some every day on the Colorado.


And a down river run

Was out at turtles yesterday. Waves were good, weather was better. Water temp was like 65 and the air was 65. Second day trunkin' it this year. Waters gunna be warm this summer.

sent from the future using my mind powers