TR: Capitol Peak (9 May 2010)

[mtnbikerskierchick]

Friday was a beautiful day. As I strolled down Elk Avenue, I ran into friend after friend. Everyone was out and about enjoying the sunshine. I passed by a group of friends hanging out on the patio at the Brick and inevitably got sucked in. I stayed there for hours, not realizing what the cosmos had planned for me this weekend. Suddenly, I had this feeling that I needed to check my email. Cell phones these days, of course, make this all too convenient. Jordan's email was the first one I checked, having the intuition that his email was going to relay something big. My gut-feeling proved correct, as he suggested that we attempt a one-day push for Capitol on Sunday.


Photo of Capitol as seen from Pyramid on Sunday, courtesy of cjw

We'd been planning to attempt Capitol for quite some time- jcwhite, Jarrett, Caleb, and I. But, the spring weather wasn't cooperating. A relentlessly stormy spring has allowed little time for corn or a stable spring snowpack. Our window of opportunity seemed to be closing fast, and we knew we had to take advantage of this sunny weekend. So, the four of us, along with Matt, agreed to meet up for our Sunday attempt.

For the initial approach, Jarrett and I were leaning towards hiking in and setting up a base camp. But, Matt, Caleb, and Jordan could not join us for this due to other plans. So, we decided to split up for the initial approach. Around 6:30 pm on Saturday, Jarrett and I headed up the Snowmass Creek trailhead towards Moon Lake. We hiked for a few hours through some frustrating alternations of dry trail and post-holing deep snow before deciding to set up a bivy in a meadow.


Knowing that jcwhite, Jarrett, and Matt would be leaving the trailhead around midnight, we set an alarm for a 1:30 am wake-up. Timing couldn't have been better as they strolled through our camp at 2 am, and we were ready to go.

We were thankful for first light. Looking back at the boys skinning up the basin, with Daly behind.


At the top of One-In-A-Million, Caleb came to terms with his lack of sleep and how tired he was feeling. We were all sad that he decided to turn around, but we understood that his decision was made in the interest of safety. Caleb, don't worry, you'll get this peak on a different day

We skied down the couloir into Pierre Lakes Basin, heading toward the Secret Chute and then switched over from skis to crampons for the boot up the Secret Chute.

Jarrett




I've seen plenty of pictures of the Secret Chute and I can tell you this- it is a lot steeper than it looks in any photo I have ever seen. Combine this with May sunshine melting out the snow, making for shallow rotten snow mixed with rock, and you have a recipe for some difficult climbing. Luckily, Jordan took the lead through the crux and belayed the rest of us to the top. Jarrett at the top of the Secret Chute.


From there, I followed Jarrett's tracks up the ridge for a ways while Jordan continued to belay Matt.



Jarrett stopping for a quick break, with the face of Capitol towering behind him.



But, eventually the ridge gained difficulty.


As I stared at the face of Capitol, I began to doubt myself, wondering if I could actually climb it. I'd spent years preparing myself for this ascent- rock climbing, ice climbing, climbing on exposed terrain, looking at picture after picture memorizing the route. But, when I got there and saw that face looming in front of me.... the mountain seemed to be talking to me, intimidating me, taunting me, bullying me. I wanted to turn around. So, I sat there, contemplating. My mind battled with my butterflies and the mind won. After all, climbing a mountain is as much a mental game as it is a physical one. When jcwhite approached me on the ridge we discussed our plan. We had brought the rope for a reason, and I felt better off using it.

jcwhite, my god-sent belay man!




After the rock-climbing crux, the route requires some traversing over a very exposed ridge to reach the summit. In the interest of saving time, as the sun was baking the snow making for a potentially dangerous ski descent, I agreed to do this without the rope.


Ahh, the summit! Our time was minimal there. I signed the register, then quickly switched over to ski mode.




Skiing was.... exposed. Normally comfortable on my skis, this descent had me gripped.






Matt.


We eventually found ourselves back at the top of the Secret Chute, ready to rappel down it.


The four of us reunited at the bottom. High-fives everywhere. We did it!

Matt heading up our last climb of the day, up One-In-A-Million.


As we reached camp, Jordan and Matt ventured ahead, while Jarrett and I packed our remaining things. Exhausted, delirious, starving, and stumbling, Jarrett and I slowly made our way down the trial. Alternating patches of snow and dirt made skiing difficult, and eventually we found ourselves frustrated once again over the series of snow post-holing snow patches. We arrived back at the car around 10 pm, making it a 20-hour day.

Even now, two days later, I am still trying to comprehend everything that happened. I still feel like skiing Capitol happened in my dreams- like I wasn't really there. But, it really did happen. And I suppose it was appropriate that it happened to be my 50th 14er descent. Fifty is a big number, and deserved a big peak.

I've said it before, and I'll say it again. I could not have done this if it weren't for my partners, Jordan White, Jarrett Luttrell, and Matt Kamper. I can't think of a better team to ascend this peak with, and I owe each of them so much.. Extra thanks is extended to Jordan, who had the patience to put me on belay up the face, and for his fantastic lead through the Secret Chute (which was more difficult than usual due to a May ascent- the sun-baked rocks simply melt the snow through the crux).

A view of our line, courtesy of goldenboy.


I have only 4 more fourteeners left to ski: Pyramid, Mt. Wilson, El Diente, and Pikes Peak. I can't say whether it's in the cards for me to finish this season, but I'm going to give it a good try. Thanks to everyone cheering me on! I can't begin to tell you how much I appreciate your support!

For more details and about twice as many pics, check out my trip report on my Blog
__________________________________________________ ____________________
Notes: Congrats to Jarrett Luttrell, who now just has one remaining peak before becoming the first person to snowboard them all. Hope you get Long's Peak done soon!

Thanks to Jordan White for contributing so many of the photos above, and also for his excellent write-up on Wildsnow.com.
__________________________________________________ ____________________

[powdork]

awesome tr!

As we reached camp, Jordan and Matt ventured ahead, while Jarrett and I packed our remaining things. Exhausted, delirious, starving, and stumbling, Jarrett and I slowly made our way down the trial.

intentional misspelling?

As I stared at the face of Capitol, I began to doubt myself, wondering if I could actually climb it. I'd spent years preparing myself for this ascent- rock climbing, ice climbing, climbing on exposed terrain, looking at picture after picture memorizing the route. But, when I got there and saw that face looming in front of me.... the mountain seemed to be talking to me, intimidating me, taunting me, bullying me. I wanted to turn around. So, I sat there, contemplating. My mind battled with my butterflies and the mind won.

it always amazes me how i can look at the same thing on different days, and one day i can conquer the fear, and the other i walk home with my tail firmly implanted between my cheeks. a lot of it is frame of mind, a lot of it seems to be visual clarity, and a huge part is the group you're with. Seems like you had all three working for you, which is necessary for the big ones. Congrats on turning 50!

[AKPogue]

Sweeet!!

[Rideski]

Big time B.

[Shadam]

50 down, 4 to go ... Go Girl !!!
However there's always next season.

[Xover]

... haven't "felt" motivated to post in a while; but i am more than honored to post in this soon to be legendary thread

these are the best photos this "lurker" has seen this season by far

congrats on acheiving a long desied goal sweety

[mc_roon]

kick ass!

[IridePow]

Congratulations Brittany!
That's a big one to scratch off your list.

[Huck_Schmuck]

On top of the great achievement, another smashing TR! Thanks! Good luck with the last four. Maybe I can now get you & GB to sign my book ;-)

[Arno]

great TR and a really impressive objective to do on skis!

[squirrelmurphy]

YEEEE-HAAWWWW!

5 fucking stars!

[mtnbikerskierchick]

awesome tr!
intentional misspelling?

Misspelling definitely not intentional, but certainly appropriate

[Agave Afish]

What an awesome climb that is. Big round of applause for a strong team - nice work!

[^^^]

Nice work Brittany and Jarrett! After this big day I'd imagine you are firing on all cylinders and ready to take on remaining four peaks in stride. Keep on that wave of momentum and get 'em done.

[MarkoInTheBoat]

FKNA!!! Absolutely incredible accomplishment Brittany! It must feel great to have Capitol off of your list.
Big ups to Jarrett also, showing the world that us hard booters stomp all others on snowboards.

[mtnbikerskierchick]

Nice work Brittany and Jarrett! After this big day I'd imagine you are firing on all cylinders and ready to take on remaining four peaks in stride. Keep on that wave of momentum and get 'em done.

Tis true. Now, if only the weather would cooperate

[montanaskier]

amazing...

[mtnbiker/boarder]

FKNA that was just awesome reading and viewing .....good luck on your last quest for the 4 14ers left.....very well done ,,,,,

[The SnowShow]

my gawd! Congrats. Capitol is a beast.

[Kya]

Hell yeah Brittany, way to go! I just feel cool knowing you and skiing a few of the 14ers with ya.

Get'r done!

[marshalolson]

so stoked for you. nice job!

[SILENCER]

Unbelievable. EXCELLENT WORK!!!!

[Pinner]

That is SUCH a burly peak. It's all gravy from here out, eh?

Well played.

[mtl_ripper]

WAY TO GET IT DONE!!! Amazing!

[Pow4Brains]

Hawt damn!!!! Looking forward to the party on the top of Pikes.