Thread: 9 Speed Road Bike Chains

So is there a big difference in say a Shimano CN-HG73 105 vs CN-HG93 XT chain? Any difference in mountain bike chain vs road bike?

What about SRam stuff- just as good as Shimano?

If you have all Shimano components- using some other brand chain cause any problems?

The price difference can be substantial depending on the web site. Local bike shop only has the higher end Shimano and would have to order something in entry level.

The difference between 73 and 93 is weight, and its not very significant. And no, 9 speed is 9 speed, so an "XT" chain will be fine. Personally I've had better luck with Shimano chains then SRAM. Some people say otherwise, but I have used Shimano chains, cassettes, front deraileurs, and chainrings for a long time and never had any issues. Though SRAM shifters and rear deraileurs are the shit.

Hope that helps.

I have 25 rental road bikes w/ shimano 10 speed drivetrains and use only sram chains w/ no problems. Love the quick link, run very smooth. Just change them at 2500-3000 miles. Same for 9. Sram on all our mountain rentals. Screw Shimano and their chain pins!

Originally Posted by Crampedon

Screw Shimano and their chain pins!

I second that. It's the difference between the best possible connecting system and the absolute worst, unless you like buying expensive, special one use only pins. Who thought that was a good idea?

Does SRAM still require the chain tools while out there or for the initial installation? I usually do not carry one on the ride- figure if nobody else has one and a chain breaks, then I'll use my cell phone or get a ride back somehow. So far I have not had a chain break in the middle of a ride. Can you just carry a spare of the SRam quick link?

I usually do not care about weight very much. What SRam would be good for a basic road bike running Shimano 105 rear and triple up front?

I love connex chains, and especially the connex quicklink which is a hell of a lot easier to use than the SRAM one. Road bike, cross bike, mountain, commuter all have connex chains.

Originally Posted by RShea

Can you just carry a spare of the SRam quick link?

Yes. They're sold separately for around $3, and they also come with each complete chain.

I've used SRAM chains since they were Sachs-Sedis; they have long been my preference over Shimano. I like to remove chains when they get really gummy/ gritty, and soak them in degreaser -- it's a lot easier doing that with the quick link SRAM chains than breaking the Shimano link.

(I'm also with the school of thought that says degrease any new chain right out of the box, despite the chain manufacturers' recommendations against doing this. I don't like the heavy grease the chains come packed in, which just seems to collect dirt and never let go. I'd rather start with a completely clean bare chain, and use my own lube of choice.)

Meh, I keep enough of those spare pins around. I've changed enough Shimano chains that it takes me about the same time to replace the pin as it does to use a quick link. I've always had better luck with Shimano chains lasting longer and not breaking.

Originally Posted by El Chupacabra

Yes. They're sold separately for around $3, and they also come with each complete chain.

I've used SRAM chains since they were Sachs-Sedis; they have long been my preference over Shimano. I like to remove chains when they get really gummy/ gritty, and soak them in degreaser -- it's a lot easier doing that with the quick link SRAM chains than breaking the Shimano link.

(I'm also with the school of thought that says degrease any new chain right out of the box, despite the chain manufacturers' recommendations against doing this. I don't like the heavy grease the chains come packed in, which just seems to collect dirt and never let go. I'd rather start with a completely clean bare chain, and use my own lube of choice.)

I remember having Sachs-Sedis chains before, had a cool gold chain for a number of years on my old 6 speed road bike. Never knew that they are now SRam or that SRam purchased them or merged, whatever happened to become SRam.

Anyone a fan of paraffin waxing a chain as a lube option? Removing and placing in a pan of paraffin and foregoing the standard petroleum lubes out there?

Originally Posted by CantDog

I love connex chains, and especially the connex quicklink which is a hell of a lot easier to use than the SRAM one. Road bike, cross bike, mountain, commuter all have connex chains.

Have not seen many of these in any catalogs- maybe just have never noticed the brand though. I see they are Wippermann Connex

Any fans of KMC, YBN or just stay with the better known names?

Wipperman Connex yep. I definitely clean my chain more now that it takes 5 seconds to get the chain apart and toss in some carb cleaner.

I've used KMC and have had no problems. Performance bikes has a rebranded KMC chain that is usually really cheap. I usually throw one on in the winter since I burn through chains so quickly.

Honestly, I think that they all shift pretty damn fine if everything is adjusted properly. Its when there are other problems that chain issues get magnified. Since it's a wear part, and I'm more likely to replace it than wear it into the ground, I'll go with cheaper ones like KMCs or some of the Wippermans.

Oh, you can put the wipperman connex link on other brand of chains, which I highly recommend. Love that quicklink.

I run Dura Ace chains on my XTR equipped mountain bike and it seems to work well based on other's suggestions. Not too pricey either.
Considering drivetrain components are the quickest wearing parts on your bike, go with quality for shifting performance and longevity along with regular chain cleaning.
Chains are cheap relative to derailleurs and chainring sets.
Pay now or later.

the ultegra chains are cheaper and just don't have the fancy nickle coating that DA has. No functional difference, unless being shiny is better.

Originally Posted by CantDog

the ultegra chains are cheaper and just don't have the fancy nickle coating that DA has. No functional difference, unless being shiny is better.

Any difference in rust resistance properties (nickel does not rust very easy)? The chain on the bike now (just it up used) is rusting and no amount of lube is stopping it. Not sure if it was left in a wet garage or what the story is.

I used a kmc 9 spd chain and I thot it wore pretty good & was on par with the sram chains

My kid was able to break 2 of those sram Quick links freer8iding & racing so I used to rivet his chains together and save the quick link for emergency ,his chains never failed when they were riveted

I have never had problems ... but I seen it happen

if you manage to not take the pin all the way out, Shimano chains are fine, but that is a stupid system and that quick link Sram has makes maintenance stupid easy. You still need a chain tool to get the length right.
Don't higher end chains wear better?

I don't think the nickle stops rust, just makes it prettier...Wipperman or KMC makes an SS chain if thats really a problem. Keeping it lubed and wet(ha) will probably serve ya better and be cheaper.

On the euro cross circuit a ton of the top guys like Sven Nys ran ultegra chains because they'd replace them every weekend anyway, and the only difference was the shiny shit. I think Katie Compton used to do the same, although I don't know who her equipment sponsor is anymore.

Originally Posted by RShea

Anyone a fan of paraffin waxing a chain as a lube option? Removing and placing in a pan of paraffin and foregoing the standard petroleum lubes out there?

Waxing is a lot of work, but I think some roadies still do that.

My favorite chain lube: Dupont Teflon Multi-Use Lube, available in a big spray can at Lowe's, around $6. It's reportedly the same stuff as Finish Line's Dry Lube, but in a cheap bulk package. Dries very fast on the chain, doesn't leave any greasy black marks.

It does wear off quickly, so you'll have to lube every 3-4 rides. It's also not a good choice for wet climates (washes off), but I live in a desert, so OK for me. I don't even wipe the chain after lubing -- just spray, let it dry. I like it because it's dry and doesn't attract dust; Reno/ Tahoe riding in the summer means a LOT of dust/silt.

Favorite Chain Lube: Dumonde Tech Lite, smells like gorgonzola and keeps chains happy.

Ultegra chains have been great for me, and a HUDGE upgrade over 105 chains. I usually degrease new chains too. I started using Rock Star lubes this year - they seem to keep things a lot cleaner tan some of the "wax" type lubes I had been using.

Best lube = Chain-L.

http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_d...=1260123208744

I been using this stuff works good ,good in the wet ,it had a good bike mag review and the main reason ...at interbike they gave us a full sized sample bottle

ALSO sram gave anybody who came to their seminar a free chain so I try to buy sram

shimano chains seem to usually be more expensive , I think higher end chains of any brand are all pretty good quality ,but riiders either seem to be a shimano guy or a sram guy

I think you want to watch out for what comes stock on a bike ,way back I bought my kid an entry level Kona ,it had a really low end chain (sram pc41) which wore & stretched real quick ... killed the rear cluster at the same time

I wipe most of the grease off a new chain but I squirt that stuff above or triflow on new chains and it cleans off the grease

I try to lube every ride

I don't like DuraAce chains because of those special pins they come with ... they're pretty finicky and generally a bitch to work with in the field when shit breaks on you on the side of the road. They don't use a standard straight pin like other chains. I wouldn't say it's a major hassle, as you don't need to worry so much about a $30 part on your bike and any 9sp chain will work just fine.

Definitely a good idea to add a SRAM powerlink.

Regarding lube etc ... wipe your chain DRY after you clean and lube with whatever you are using ... it's just like ski wax, you want the wax that's in your base not on your base. Same thing with lube - you want the stuff that's in your chain and not on your chain. The stuff that's on your chain traps road dust and grime and turns into sludge that will wear down your chain and cassette.

Rshea, what kind of weather and road conditions are you riding in?


edit: speaking of chain stretch, get yourself a little Park Tool chain wear checker and just spot check every time you do a cleaning. Takes 2 seconds and saves you from premature cassette wear. Depending on how rough you are on your chains, some people recommend changing chain and cassette together but I don't follow that school of thought. I also weigh next to nothing and don't ride in the rain while tailgating cars and pick up as much gunk into my drivetrain as possible ... YMMV

The last few years I have only had a single road bike. Put in 2 or 3 days of riding per week, depending on weather, work etc. Somewhere in the 1100 to 1200 + miles from late spring, after ski season/snow melts into fall and the miles fall off quickly between the reduced daylight and weather. Usually will not leave for a ride if it is pouring rain out, but have had times when I am out on a ride and get caught in rain. Also from time to time an organized ride like a charity tour I'll do in the rain. Mostly paved roads, not much on dirt miles. I usually will clean a chain on the bike with the WD40 type spray- turning the wheel and wiping it until it is pretty much not dripping all black and mostly clear. Then I re-lube it- in the past I have bounced around some from using PB Blaster Dry lube- a teflon spray, Finish Line, to the Pedros syn-lube or sometimes TriFlow.

Next year I will probably use the old classic 7 speed road bike on early season miles and the pull out the new to me Specialized Allez that I mentioned I purchased used recently that the previous owner let the chain rust and I am thinking about replacing at some point over the winter.

Originally Posted by RShea

...Then I re-lube it- in the past I have bounced around some from using PB Blaster Dry lube- a teflon spray, Finish Line, to the Pedros syn-lube or sometimes TriFlow.

I'm not a fan of WD-40 but if you're relubing you should be okay. You sound like you're not out in nasty weather a lot so I bet all of the above are fine ... most of the liquid lubes you describe above will clean your chain as well. I like drips better than spray, so that you can get the lube down in-between the bushings instead of on the outside of the plates (where it's not doing any good). Like I said, the most important thing is to just make sure to wipe completely dry when you're done relubing. One good way is to run your cranks for a good 15 seconds to get the links moving and the lube redistributed then let it sit overnight and wipe fully in the morning. As it sits overnight, the excess lube will flow out of your chainlinks and pull out any last bit of particles with it (so goes the theory).

I used to be bad about keeping my drivetrain dry, but once I figured out how to keep the drivetrain clean and dry, my chains and cassettes started lasting many many more miles.