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Thread: TR: Sickle Couloir, Horstman Peak, Sawtooths (ID)

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    TR: Sickle Couloir, Horstman Peak, Sawtooths (ID)

    Pretty belated, but I was just going through some pics and it reminded me of how cool this line is- despite skiing it in less than all-time conditions.

    Approximate date: May 26, 2009



    The Sickle from Fish Hook Creek approach

    There are a lot of epics in the Sawtooths, but for whatever reason the Sickle has always stuck out in my mind a bit. Maybe it’s because you can see it from Stanley, or maybe because it’s such an awesome sliver- either way, it’s a good one for the Idaho hit list.
    Drew (not Alto, but a Drew with similar reckless ambition) and I set out one day in late May to see if we couldn’t find some descent snow still remaining in the upper reaches of the ‘tooths.

    Top of the couloir from the snow line

    Referred to as the most aesthetic peak in the Sawtooths, Horstman Peak rises to 10,470’ and is defined by the Sickle Couloir. Usually conquered in two days in the winter, the couloir provides a rather lengthy day in the spring due to the approach. Highlights of the five-mile walk into the basin included me collapsing a snow bridge and falling into a creek up to my waist, countless post-holes in isothermic snow, and Drew loosing his balance and testing his self-arresting skills.



    At the base of the couloir things looked promising: it seemed that the snow in the shade was still frozen and there was what looked like a previous boot pack. Once we got inside the couloir, however, things were not so reassuring. What we perceived to be an old boot pack was nothing more than a debris trails from a large rocks that had rolled down the couloir- this was both frustrating and unnerving. To make matters worse, snow had frozen, but only the top couple of inches. Thus, while you could kick-in with your boot, the moment you transferred weight you’d immediately post-hole.


    Base of the couloir, can you see the "bootpack"

    We pushed on despite the marginal conditions. Midway up the couloir things went from bad to worse. The snow had frozen much deeper and, while it would now support weight, it was virtually impenetrable- even with an ice axe.. Scrambling up the 45 plus-degree top section, the light was just beginning to heat up the snow on the top twenty feet of the couloir- we’d at least have one good turn.


    Halfway up, where it starts getting really sketchy

    The Sickle Couloir is walled in for about 1,000’, varying between 45 and 55 degrees. Given that sections of it were so frozen they were impermeable with an ice axe, I’ll admit that we were a bit puckered as we dropped in.


    From the top, looking down

    Dropping in, I admit I was pretty puckered. The majority of the couloir was steep, narrow, had few safety zones, and was made up of coral. Needless to say, if you fell, you were going for a ride, probably pin-balling to the apron. We made the call to ski with ice axes in hand for self-arresting reasons.


    The first, and only good turn.

    The first turn, which had been baking in the sun for about an hour, was buttery. The next twenty turns, however, were nothing short of terrifying. The combination of steep, runneled, and boilerplate snow through a walled-in couloir tested our survival skiing skills. We eventually made it to the apron that had been heating up in the sun for quite some time now, and made some more natural turns to the base of the snowfield.

    As I said, the Sickle is one of many epics in the Sawtooths, particularly if the conditions are right…or so I hear, as I’ve never come close to hitting it right.
    Last edited by griffmastar; 11-06-2009 at 05:28 PM.

  2. #2
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    RTR is offline Shumanitutonka Ob' Wachi
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    I really want to see this... can you fix the pictures?
    Click here to increase your vocabulary.

  3. #3
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    Yes. Please fix the pictures.
    "The idea wasnt for me, that I would be the only one that would ever do this. My idea was that everybody should be doing this. At the time nobody was, but this was something thats too much fun to pass up." -Briggs
    Quote Originally Posted by LeeLau View Post
    Wear your climbing harness. Attach a big anodized locker to your belay loop so its in prime position to hit your nuts. Double russian Ti icescrews on your side loops positioned for maximal anal rape when you sit down. Then everyone will know your radness
    More stoke, less shit.

  4. #4
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    The Sickle is definitely cooler than red X's.
    Quote Originally Posted by Benny Profane View Post
    Well, I'm not allowed to delete this post, but, I can say, go fuck yourselves, everybody!

  5. #5
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    fail. I can't see the bootpack

  6. #6
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    There, that should help

  7. #7
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    Pucker factor for sure.

    Great to see TR's from lesser know ranges.
    "The idea wasnt for me, that I would be the only one that would ever do this. My idea was that everybody should be doing this. At the time nobody was, but this was something thats too much fun to pass up." -Briggs
    Quote Originally Posted by LeeLau View Post
    Wear your climbing harness. Attach a big anodized locker to your belay loop so its in prime position to hit your nuts. Double russian Ti icescrews on your side loops positioned for maximal anal rape when you sit down. Then everyone will know your radness
    More stoke, less shit.

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    I got a drunk phone call from Griffin a few weeks ago. He was in Innsbruck where it was 6am, and in a state of drunken frustration he called me just to speak English for a few minutes. Before Austria he'd been in Chile for almost two months, so he'd been not understanding anybody for what must have felt like an eternity. Pretty funny.

    Nice work on that coolie dood, and can't wait to see what else you've got up your sleeve in Idaho.

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    that's SUPER GNAR... you're kinda crazy!

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    Great TR, looks like a lot of fun. Was there not any hope of hanging out and waiting for things to soften?

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    Quote Originally Posted by alto View Post
    I got a drunk phone call from Griffin a few weeks ago. He was in Innsbruck where it was 6am, and in a state of drunken frustration he called me just to speak English for a few minutes. Before Austria he'd been in Chile for almost two months, so he'd been not understanding anybody for what must have felt like an eternity. Pretty funny.
    Yeah, and thanks to that phone call I missed getting a second Kabab

    Quote Originally Posted by Ireallyliketoski View Post
    Great TR, looks like a lot of fun. Was there not any hope of hanging out and waiting for things to soften?
    We could have hung out for sure, but Drew had to get back to town for some events so we just had to deal. I also messed up the timing a bit, I thought sun would be on it by noon, I don't think it was fully lit until around two, or possibly later.

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    looks sketch!


    down side only.

  13. #13
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    Sick TR.

    That line in those conditions looked unfun.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ernest_Hemingway View Post
    I realize there is not much hope for a bullfighting forum. I understand that most of you would prefer to discuss the ingredients of jacket fabrics than the ingredients of a brave man. I know nothing of the former. But the latter is made of courage, and skill, and grace in the presence of the possibility of death. If someone could make a jacket of those three things it would no doubt be the most popular and prized item in all of your closets.

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    Nice Trip Report. It looks like its more fun in the winter though.


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    ^^^^^

    you got a tr to go along with that photo?? headed that direction in ten days....

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    Quote Originally Posted by BRUTAH View Post
    ^^^^^

    you got a tr to go along with that photo?? headed that direction in ten days....
    I have a trip report in my head. I just haven't had time to put one together.

  17. #17
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    sick picture ski-faster

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    Yeah, I'm just jealous no one text pictures me from the climb...
    Quote Originally Posted by Benny Profane View Post
    Well, I'm not allowed to delete this post, but, I can say, go fuck yourselves, everybody!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Conundrum View Post
    Yeah, I'm just jealous no one text pictures me from the climb...

    It's only because I figured you would be like ahh I do that before breakfast. Check your email.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by ski_faster View Post
    It looks like its more fun in the winter though.
    Strong work, Joe... Did you do this with your SMG buddies?

    ^^^Just got my answer.

    Oh, and happy birthday, you old fart.
    Click here to increase your vocabulary.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by ski_faster View Post
    It's only because I figured you would be like ahh I do that before breakfast. Check your email.
    I've aged. I eat breakfast at noon now.
    Quote Originally Posted by Benny Profane View Post
    Well, I'm not allowed to delete this post, but, I can say, go fuck yourselves, everybody!

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