Thread: Am I retarded, crazy or fucking hardcore??

Probably a bit of all, but here is a conundrum. Today I surfed a absolutely firing left beach break. Fucking getting barrelled and spit out nearly every wave. Insanely good, perfect glass, light offshore wind, sets were head high and pounding through. Best of all no one was out except three of my buddies. So you may ask, "why only four people out in near perfect conditions?" Well first we got in the water at 7 am, it was freezing cold and it's a fair drive from Santa Cruz. But most of all it has to do, well at least I believe it has to do, with the shark factor. There have been numerous sightings in the very recent past. And I mean at least 5 sightings in the past week. Word was flying around this summer about a huge number of Whites roaming the coast this fall/winter, and so far the sharks are fufilling thier destiny. There has been an absurdly high number of encounters (sightings, attacks, brush-bys, etc..) very very early in the season. (Season is Sept, Oct, Nov,)

This beach, Pomponio, has an creepy vibe, it goes from super super deep to extremely shallow sand bars very quickly. There is a ton of sea-life swimming around, the water is icy cold and the gnarliness of the waves doesn't ease the tensions at all. Plus being out a 7 am, before the sunrises, (which I may add is when most attacks happen, dawn or dusk) Also surfing 4 mile today with some of the old school lokes a couple mentioned surfing Pomponio back in the day, and none of them will go back because of their own previous shark encounters.

Mainly what I ask, would you surf it? Would you surf perfect waves with only your buddies, but with the ever present threat of having a leg bit off. Remember there is absolutely no way to ward off an attack except for staying out of the water. To put in skier terms, would you drop in on a fresh face with absolutely no gauge on avie conditions, but you assume from previous odds/ratios/probabilities that you'll be okay.

I do it every chance I get! Hey, if the man in the grey suit wants to make you part of the food chain so be it. I think your odds of getting creamed on the drive there are better. Although it is sharky there, I like the old story:
" Are there sharks here?"
old fisherman " Taste the water."
"Huh?"
old fisherman " Taste the water. Is it salty?"
"Yes"
old fisherman " Then there's sharks."

Surf Ano Nuevo

i wouldn't

Originally Posted by cj001f

Surf Ano Nuevo

I do surf Ano. I surf there all the time, this place is 20 times more sharky than Ano Nuevo. Sure Ano is a seal rookery and has some of the highest concentrations of whiteys in the world, but the main break at Ano is a super shallow tucked on the beach little wedge. Pomponio is much, much more menacing than Ano. (It's only about 8 miles north of Ano anyways)

It's true I am a lot more likely to get smacked my a mack truck on the drive up, but there is something damn damn scary about nearly helplessly sitting in another predators territory and being almost blind to any kind of attack. Humans have absolutely no warning and no defense mechanism should a white decide to attack you.

Today I didn't go up to Pomponio. It was probably firing but I surfed Waddel, not much better of a spot (1/2 mile from Ano, 2 attacks in ten years and a spotting this week as well) but it gets a lot more traffic than Pomponio and is a lot less of a Shark hangout. Pomponio hasn't had attacks cause people are damn scared of that place. Guy today told me he surfed there once 10 years ago, had an encounter with a white, a will never surf there again.

Originally Posted by Alkasquawlik

Best of all no one was out except three of my buddies.

Put it this way. With 4 guys out your odds are down from 100% to 25% if whitey shows up for a breakfast meal deal.

Surfed 4 mile once, a long long time ago, alone and at dusk wondering how I scored 4-5 foot fun surf all by myself. Turns out the little shits on the beach were taking bets on whether I was gonna get chomped or not, given the shitload of sightings at that time.

I think I'd rather blow my knee up then have a shark remove my leg permanent like.

that is ballsy. definitely don't think the avie comparison is apt though. tasting the water is about all you can to to test for sharks when you get to the beach. if it is firing, get after it. if a slope may be loaded, you can take a few minutes and investigate.

my question: when you are waiting for a wave or resting, etc. do you try to stay lying flat or do you dangle your legs?

Sit up and dangle your legs. Laying down makes you look like a seal more. Most attacks I've heard of the shark will skip the people waiting for sets and nab the inside guy paddling back out.

Out kitesurfing today there was definitely a whitey cruising around. First a decapitated seal on the beach. And second two seals were acting beyond frantic. One was jumping in and out of the water hauling ass around. And the other was half out of the water swimming in circles. Kiting isn't as bad though. Cause your not a sitting duck, you're actually constantly moving. Just don't have a line break a mile out and your okay.

ok so now i just fucking hate you for living in santa cruz.

Damn, I didn't know Pomponio was that sharky. I wish I'd hit it before I read this. I won't rule it out but it has got to be super super good and not so many recent sightings.

I have been wondering if fish finders/sonar would be of any use to at least get an idea if any sharks are in the area. I'd like to know if commercial or recreational fishermen ever ID sharks with fish finders. I found a student project on the internet of a sonar system marketed to beach resorts/cities to look for sharks. Also there are a ton fish finders on the market. There is even a low power/ short range wrist watch fish finder marketed to kayak fishermen, for about $100 (Humminbird). Something like this might be useful for surfing. I'm also interested in using fish finders from a boat to survey shark population, just to get an understanding and out of curiosity.

Claiming "fucking hardcore" is weaksauce, no matter what. Says the 12 beers.

Originally Posted by BakerBoy

Claiming "fucking hardcore" is weaksauce, no matter what. Says the 12 beers.

Claiming your hetero when there is photographic evidence of you with rainbows and unicorns, not to mention published ads with BB "Celebrating Diversity" is weaksauce. We know the truth. You don't need to be bitter.

You'll probably be fine.



________________________________________

October 10, 2004
Surfer Attacked By Shark Off Pt. Reyes


POINT REYES NATIONAL SHORELINE -- An eight-foot great white shark attacked a surfer at Point Reyes National Seashore Sunday, ripping into the man's leg before being driven off, authorities said.

The attack occurred around 9:30 a.m. between Limantour and Drakes beaches, according to park Superintendent Don Neubacher. The victim's legs were hanging over the sides of his surfboard when the 6- to 8-foot shark grabbed one of his lower legs.

After hitting the shark on the head, the victim's leg was freed, and he was able to swim to shore on his own, park service officials said.

Based on the shark's reported behavior, park officials believe it was a great white, Neubacher said.

Around 10:30 a.m., the injured man was airlifted to a local hospital via Sonoma County Henry 1 helicopter. Neubacher said the man's injuries did not appear to be life threatening.

No other shark sightings have been reported since the attack. If there are no additional shark sightings, Limantour and Drakes beaches will be opened around 9:30 a.m. on Friday, Neubacher said.

From 1950 through 1999, an average of 2.1 shark attacks occurred annually along the state coastline, according to the park service. Of the 106 attacks during this period, only 11 were fatal.

The last attack at Point Reyes National Seashore took place at Tomales Point in 1996. Park officials report the abalone diver attacked in that incident survived his injuries.


ktvu.com

OK I change my vote to retarded.

And I've been properly ownerized and put in my place, so I have no further opinion. Then again, I don't care what all those people say about you Alka -- you're alright in my book!

tough call, i fucking hate sharks.they scare the hell out of me.
to be honest, i wouldnt surf it..given the facts youve laid out.
again, you may disagree...is it worth it?