Results 51 to 75 of 106
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10-21-2014, 07:53 PM #51Hugh Conway Guest
steel wool in epoxy won't rust. if it does, it's just fucking inert filler anyways; not much different than it was before. extra shit for the most part doesn't matter for this, but this is everyone jumping over their dick to wave around their ski tech chops.
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10-21-2014, 07:59 PM #52Registered User
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You mix epoxy & FG togetehr outside the ski and cram it in the hole let set over night, which epoxy you used would have no bearing on the process and its not just flexibility its strength of 5 min vs slow set, I still don't understand why anyone would even bother having 5min around as opposed to the slowset if they got time to use slowset ?
my kid told me he sometimes uses 5min to temp glue shit in place when he rebuilds very large industrial motors so I asked WTF but then that gets covered in armature varnish or sft which does make senseLee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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10-21-2014, 08:04 PM #53
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10-21-2014, 08:27 PM #54Registered User
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where did hugh go I was expecting to get my worthless ass schooled on epoxy ... guess I'm not worthy ?
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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10-21-2014, 09:19 PM #55
It'll rust, I've seen it with mine own eyes. Unless you put a topcoat over your woolly plug.
Hughster don't know shit.
5 min because you don't want to wait for it to start setting up. Waiting for slow-set epoxy to start catalyzing is worse than watching paint dry! Once you cram it, you'll be surprised how your full hole, is full no longer ie no voids under your epoxy plug. I'd rather have a voidless hole, especially for what Shafty is proposing, than a flexible plug in the fattest, least flexible part of the ski where your epoxy is ~4mm wide and ~9.5 mm deep jammed full of filler. It doesn't need to be super flexy, your not laying up a skiLast edited by tuco; 10-21-2014 at 09:47 PM.
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10-21-2014, 09:44 PM #56
Did you just question LaHugh?
Hugh-larious!I didn't believe in reincarnation when I was your age either.
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10-21-2014, 09:52 PM #57
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10-22-2014, 10:04 AM #58
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10-22-2014, 07:56 PM #59Hugh Conway Guest
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10-22-2014, 08:33 PM #60Hugh Conway Guest
telemike being a dick? He's never a dick. Neither's tuco. they are both stokefilled high-content posters.
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10-22-2014, 08:42 PM #61
I was just fuckin' with ya big buddy(I was jumpin' over my dick to wave around my ski tech chops) in that there is no 'virtual' about it, that ski essentially has no core. Ahead of their time though, just look some of the rossi skis from the last coupla years.
You're absolutely right hugh, forgot you knewitall. I propose we move this thread to the new sub-forum 'Just ask Hugh'
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10-22-2014, 08:49 PM #62
What's the story for the hexcel skis? I know there are a few in my parent garage, but they were before I existed. Did hexcel actually make them or did another company do the building with hexcel material and name?
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10-22-2014, 08:55 PM #63Hugh Conway Guest
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10-22-2014, 09:20 PM #64
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10-23-2014, 12:59 AM #65
How do so many threads get derailed so often?
Anyhoo, back to the subject at hand - I'm going to have a go with the machinable epoxy and see how she goes."...if you're not doing a double flip cork something, skiing spines in Haines, or doing double flip cork somethings off spines in Haines, you're pretty much just gaping."
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12-25-2016, 04:43 AM #66
Stripped binding hole - best epoxy filler (steelwool, colloidal silica, fiberglass)
Bumping an old thread. Mushy core Rossignol Star 7s gave me a spinner (barely). Almost feel like leaving it alone but the skis are for my dad and I'd feel pretty bad if it blew up on him.
I have some orange hardman epoxy, thinking I'll just go to the hardware store and getting some Fiberglass. Anyone have input on epoxy to 1/2 inch fiberglass strand ratio? Also, how much should I fill the hole?
Am a little tempted to try the mighty putty, but I don't have any laying around so I'd have to buy that too.
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12-25-2016, 07:38 AM #67Registered User
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Way more fibreglass that you'd think. Like 20% epoxy (slow-set stuff), 80% fibreglass (home insulation works well - I'm not sure what people in this thread and others mean about "half inch strands"; I just pull loose sections into the mix). Start 50/50 then just keep adding fibreglass until you get a really thick, sticky putty. Jam it in to fill the hole completely, screw down just snug, leave to sure completely, tighten down fully.
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12-25-2016, 08:58 AM #68Registered User
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Interesting.
Mounted mine last night.
I eased up on the screws before they were set to the point that I am comfortable. they had that feeling- 1 more crank would set them or strip them, and I was thinking strip.
Likely I am going to insert those skis. IF not, my plan- as I do believe those threads are intact, is to remount with epoxy if I like the way they ski.
I was thinking of posting on the star 7 thread to see if anybody else felt the core was kinda soft.
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12-25-2016, 01:44 PM #69Registered User
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Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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12-25-2016, 02:41 PM #70
Recently went through this process on a slightly off mount. Pounded in some wooden plugs from tognar but could use golf tees, wooden chopsticks etc with 72 hour epoxy. Chisel flush after 3 days and redrilled. White knuckle tight screws.
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12-25-2016, 03:41 PM #71Registered User
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If I ever strip a mount this is what I will use with epoxy
Alex plugs
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12-25-2016, 04:00 PM #72Gel-powered Tech bindings
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Oh I know that feeling -- unfortunately!
Fortunately though, one solution I've found has been using this:
http://www.westsystem.com/ss/g-flex-epoxy
... thanks to a suggestion from CTSmith.
Previously, when I got that "feeling" if I had only such screw like that, I would note it with a marker, then hope whatever glue I was using might help it set up overnight.
Which it never did, and of course when I went to helicoil it, then at least one other screw would be soft upon reinstallation, and almost inevitably I'd end up helicoiling all four or five screws.
Now though, quite often when I return to that suspect screw a day or so later, the G/flex has set up well enough that the screw no longer seems suspect.
And despite the apparently enhanced holding power, whenever I eventually remove the binding, the screws come up just fine without heading the heads or anything like that.
(And the threads aren't gunked up at all, or -- even worse -- all rusty from using wood of ski binding glue.)Mo' skimo here: NE Rando Race Series
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12-28-2016, 04:35 PM #73Registered User
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01-02-2017, 04:53 PM #74
Stripped binding hole - best epoxy filler (steelwool, colloidal silica, fiberglass)
Tried the fiberglass epoxy method. On the Rossignol I just had one screw slightly stripped. Added a ton of fiberglass (not a lot of epoxy) 1/2 inch strips cut from fiberglass cloth. Put a little less but still some in the non stripped holes, was able to crank the stripped screw almost all the way while wet.
Also had another pair of skis that had a badly stripped hole. First attempt to repair I don't think I put enough pressure on the screw when screwing in, spun in the hole a lot even with fiberglass. Removed all the screws, refilled with the mix again. This time watched the screw depth, screwed it down almost all the way. Felt like the screw still had no bite, so I was skeptical it'd hold. But next day, went to tighten the spinners on both skis and I could tighten them "white knuckle tight".
Very pleased with results. Most annoying part was stuffing the fiberglass into the holes with matches, kept getting pulled back out. Thanks for the help all
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01-02-2017, 07:25 PM #75Registered User
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Right so what you figured out is that the hole is fucked cuz the screw has spun and so all its gona do is spin some more
BUT if you cram the epoxy & FG in there, do the screw up till it is ABOUT to spin
Let the slow set cure for 24hrs ... you will be able to crank em white knuckleLee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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