Thread: reattaching bindings to existing holes

Sorry if this has been covered before, searched but could not find. I unmounted my 138's to send them back to DPS and now I need to put the dukes back on. I figure this is NOT rocket science but is there anything I should know in terms of how tight to screw them back in, or which screws to attach first? I figured Id go in diagonal pairs of screws not tightening them all the way until they're all set at the very least and making sure they are all centered, but is there anything else I should watch out for other than that? Make sure to line the screws up in the existing threads, use some sort of screw wax/glue, or something?


Thanks.

Wood glue in holes...screw in by hand with Posi #3...not phillips. Just tighten until the screw seems fully seated and snug..don't really get into em too much. I sand the topsheets a bit before remounting to get rid of that little lip around the holes. Diagonal is correct.

Scrape any goop off the screws first too.

And DPS wants you to use epoxy, not wood glue...

Scotchbrite also picks up any slack.

Originally Posted by corn dog

Scrape any goop off the screws first too.

also any glue residue that may remain in the holes, but be careful not to damage any of the threading of the whole in the process

really, epoxy? what if I wanna remove them again later?

Originally Posted by buckethead

also any glue residue that may remain in the holes, but be careful not to damage any of the threading of the whole in the process

what do I use to do that?

Funny i have this exact same issue. Have to reattach some Dukes to my 183 Bros, Splat, given the core of that ski, what do you recommend to apply to screws before reattaching?

to loosen epoxy 1st make sure you are using a pozi driver bit not a phillips so you don't strip the screw head ,hit the screw heads with a soldering iron and the heat will break the bond

I havent tried this but in hard to reach places or if you don't have the soldering iron some folks also use a drill bit CHUCKED BACKWARDS on the screw head ,the heat generated by the drill shank doesnt hurt the screw head but will break the bond .

whatever glue residue left in the old screw hole will just become part of the new screwthreads/epoxy

A lot of times you can break the epoxy bond by hand if you remove the bindings later.
If not, heat does the trick. A soldering iron works, as does a heat gun or even just a hairdryer.
Don't worry about cleaning out the screw holes.

Originally Posted by volklpowdermaniac

Funny i have this exact same issue. Have to reattach some Dukes to my 183 Bros, Splat, given the core of that ski, what do you recommend to apply to screws before reattaching?

Ain't nuthin wrong with epoxy. I see a lot of wood glues gone wet from surface seepage and that will lead to rotten wood and ripouts. Go glass. It doesn't permanently attach the screw to the wood, like many seem to think, and leaves nice threads to go back into, while waterproofing the hole.

Originally Posted by splat

Ain't nuthin wrong with epoxy. I see a lot of wood glues gone wet from surface seepage and that will lead to rotten wood and ripouts. Go glass. It doesn't permanently attach the screw to the wood, like many seem to think, and leaves nice threads to go back into, while waterproofing the hole.

Thank you sir.

I like using Gorilla glue expands around the screw to create a waterproof bond. Then just hand tight with a pozi drive and don't go crazy.