full tilt vs krypton boot info

[Like a Boss]

Tried on a 26.5 FT (1st Chair) today at the shop, which I think will work. Toes felt real snug. Do most people use a toe cap when fitting the liners? A footbed? I have superfeet footbeds from my old boots, should I abandon those or use them in the FTs? I heard that the liners are designed to work without footbeds...

Umlauts and Mtnlion, thanks for the help.

[Beyond]

I'm working on a Dalbello K Cross with same issue; nice in rear, OK in middle, very tight around toes. No one seems to make a 3 piece that fits feet that are wider in front, or that have actual toes. I used my old Superfeet, footbed is recommended for Dalbellos, YMMV. Have the ID Intuition, which did a lot to solve the issue, but also used toe cap, several other bits of foam. May go back and do it again with two caps, actually. Other alternative is to amputate toes, which boots may take care of anyway...

[mntlion]

use footbeds if you have room, use 1 * 3mm toe cap when heating, pad the foot for extra room if needed, heat the whole liner well.

key thing (for ANY boot) is that 5-15mm shell fit.

[Bird Blaster]

I change from a 28 Lange (326bsl) to a 28 FT (318 BSL). THe 29s would've been too big.

However, I had to ditch the superfeet foot beds. I don't have enough volume in the boot (top-bottom) to accommodate them.

[Bird Blaster]

Quick question about FT's

Since this is my first pair of 3-piece boots, I had a question about doing them up. With my old 4 buckles I started by getting my heel in deep, top two buckles, flex a bit, and then do the bottom two, followed by the powerstrap/boosterstrap

With the full tilts it seems that I need to put the powerstrap on first to get the tongue down close enough to the shell before doing the cables. Seems like it takes a bunch of force to get it down enough to put the cables on. Then do the top, middle followed by the bottom. Then re-adjust the powerstrap.

Is this the right sequence? I just want to make sure that I am getting the tongue far enough down and I wasn't sure what the best way to judge that was.

Note: I still have to get the liners molded.

[mntlion]

1) get liners molded
2) as long as the heel is back all the way, that is the goal
3) get some longer cables,
4) remove the cable cover thingy to get more room for the cables.

[Bird Blaster]

Thanks mtnlion

I am going to get them molded this weekend. Ski on them, and go from there.

[Wild4umlauts]

Just my opinion, but if you can get your foot into your shell with an un-molded liner then your shell is most likely too big.

[Katoom]

Hold onto those footbeds! My cork footbeds and the full tilt bootboards/zeppas don't go together that well. As has been discussed here, there's a lot of shape to the bootboards(too much arch and ramp) and when combined with my footbed's arch and slight heel raise I had a hard time with fore-aft balance. The simple solution is to use a belt sander to flatten out the middle 50% of the bootboards. It solves the problem and they're cheap to replace if you mess up. Ultimately I want totally flat bootboards and will soon try cheaply pouring my own with "Oogoo"(corn starch and silicone mix). Wild4umlauts makes awesome cork bootboards but that kind of cork is hard to come by in large quantities.

[Bird Blaster]

Just my opinion, but if you can get your foot into your shell with an un-molded liner then your shell is most likely too big.

My foot fits in the boot fine. I was just asking about the tightening sequence to get the upper tongue down. If I got a shell size bigger, they would be too big.

[Wild4umlauts]

Hold onto those footbeds! My cork footbeds and the full tilt bootboards/zeppas don't go together that well. As has been discussed here, there's a lot of shape to the bootboards(too much arch and ramp) and when combined with my footbed's arch and slight heel raise I had a hard time with fore-aft balance. The simple solution is to use a belt sander to flatten out the middle 50% of the bootboards. It solves the problem and they're cheap to replace if you mess up. Ultimately I want totally flat bootboards and will soon try cheaply pouring my own with "Oogoo"(corn starch and silicone mix). Wild4umlauts makes awesome cork bootboards but that kind of cork is hard to come by in large quantities.

You'd think totally flat would be the way to go, but I found that it messed too much with the boot fit - especially around the instep area. So I've arrived at a compromise shape that has a much less arch, but still has some ramp and curve from the heel going down to the toes. I've talked with the FT guys about the issues with the stock bootboards at last year's SIA and this year's show. They nod in agreement yet I doubt anything will ever happen. You would think coming out with a new bootboard design for the same boots wouldn't be too much of a huge issue, but still nothing from them.

Doing custom bootboards with Superfeet Kork material isn't the easiest thing in the world and the material is hard to come by. I'd love to see someone come up with a better way and a better material to get the job done.

[Beyond]

I change from a 28 Lange (326bsl) to a 28 FT (318 BSL). THe 29s would've been too big.

However, I had to ditch the superfeet foot beds. I don't have enough volume in the boot (top-bottom) to accommodate them.

Hmm. Thought 10 mm BSL change was about standard for 1 size drop, not same. Dalbello BSL for 27.5 is 316, compared to 315 for 27.5 Salomon Falcons. I dropped to 26.5 for my Crosses, 306 BSL.

But had similar issue with Superfeet; my shop guy cut out the ends below the first two toes, back about 2 cm. Works. But I have a low instep.

[Bird Blaster]

Question about heel pocket. Had the boots molded today. Worked great - they are very comfortable.

I worked at making a heel pocket in the store, but it is nothing like my Lange's. I feel like my heels want to lift up, anything to try?

[mntlion]

not really, tighter middle cable?

smaller boot? depends on what langes you where on (how narrow) and what size, but the FT is 98mm, so med to narrow, NOT a full race fit at 95mm, and usually people are in a smaller BSL in the FT then in a lange.

[Bird Blaster]

The lange's i had were slightly more narrow, but very very similar shell fit between the two.

I will try cranking on the middle buckle a little.

I did have some success with the powerstrap on the liner and a booster on the tongue - lots of extra tie-downs but it felt like a much better heel hold that way.

[mntlion]

also some padding on the tongue, over the "flex point" can help drive the heel back.

still no way to make a FT fit as tight as a race boot.

[Like a Boss]

FT gurus:

Just scored a pair of 26.5 FTs (Wallisch) cheap from a friend who used them twice and needed a 27. I think 26.5 is the proper shell for me (size 10 street shoe), so the question is on the liners. Since he has a bigger foot and the liners have been molded to his foot I'm wondering what to do. The boots feel great right now, and I am using my footbeds and they feel good to go right now. The question is, should I re-mold the liners? Will this even do anything, as I have a lower volume foot? I can't imagine that re-molding will make the liners take up more volume in the boot, which is the ideal. Should I just ski them as is until they get packed out and buy new liners?

Thanks guys.

[Beyond]

Question about heel pocket. Had the boots molded today. Worked great - they are very comfortable.

I worked at making a heel pocket in the store, but it is nothing like my Lange's. I feel like my heels want to lift up, anything to try?

I've had the same issue. I have 7 mm between my heel and the shell, so it's not that the boot's too big. Think that it's just the last; heel bases are relatively wide, forefoot's relatively narrow. Tried a FT, not much difference. Population of Yrp, far as I can tell, must have feet with enormously fat heels and little baby toes, tiny and stubby.

If you want a cabrio design, you'll have to live with it (or until Nordica comes out with its cabrio next season, maybe they'll have a shape for the rest of us.)

But I found that the lateral fit at the ankle, starting a few cm above the heel, is fine. Really quick, and I can lock down the heel, remove that sense of rising, just by one more notch on the middle lever.

[Bird Blaster]

I've had the same issue. I have 7 mm between my heel and the shell, so it's not that the boot's too big. Think that it's just the last; heel bases are relatively wide, forefoot's relatively narrow. Tried a FT, not much difference. Population of Yrp, far as I can tell, must have feet with enormously fat heels and little baby toes, tiny and stubby.

If you want a cabrio design, you'll have to live with it (or until Nordica comes out with its cabrio next season, maybe they'll have a shape for the rest of us.)

But I found that the lateral fit at the ankle, starting a few cm above the heel, is fine. Really quick, and I can lock down the heel, remove that sense of rising, just by one more notch on the middle lever.

Starting to get it dialed in a little bit more with middle buckle and booster strap. Definetaly doesn't have the heel hold of the lange's. I think I am going to keep on them for awhile. Worst case, just go back to the Lange's.

[whyturn]

Hey bird blaster the middle buckle should be first to seat heel then top then toe
Also the one click of adjustment is key especially for heel
But key with powerwrap is don't overtighten
Buckles should be easy to close
I run mine without footbed and really love the depth of heel pocket and the wrap liner

[bendtheski]

Starting to get it dialed in a little bit more with middle buckle and booster strap. Definetaly doesn't have the heel hold of the lange's. I think I am going to keep on them for awhile. Worst case, just go back to the Lange's.

I noticed some minor heel slop in my kryptons at first. I think either I got used to it, or it went away. Tightening the middle buckle should help. My old flexons and the new krypton have two anchor points for the cable under the upper cuff. (unbolt the inside cuff allignment screw for easier access) Not sure if the FT has the same option, but it should.
Don't give up on the FT's just yet. I skied langes for 15 years. Dealt with cold feet, broken shells every two years and packed out liners after 25 days. The FT's would almost have to be an improvement!
Now if they'd just fix those buckles; the main reason I went with the dalbello!

[Wild4umlauts]

How deeply your foot sits in the shell directly affects the heel hold. If your liner is too thick on the bottom or if you have a thick footbed (or both) then your foot rides up higher in the shell. If you put your bare foot into the shell you can see/feel how well your heel/ankle line up with the shell shape at the back of the boot. You should be able to get a sense of just how much "stuff" you can have below your feet on top of the bootboard before you'll begin sacrificing the fit around your heel/ankle and thus lose heel hold down power.

This is the main reason I've gone with really thin footbeds and custom bootboards.

[Like a Boss]

Paging umlauts/mtnlion. Any input on this:

FT gurus:

Just scored a pair of 26.5 FTs (Wallisch) cheap from a friend who used them twice and needed a 27. I think 26.5 is the proper shell for me (size 10 street shoe), so the question is on the liners. Since he has a bigger foot and the liners have been molded to his foot I'm wondering what to do. The boots feel great right now, and I am using my footbeds and they feel good to go right now. The question is, should I re-mold the liners? Will this even do anything, as I have a lower volume foot? I can't imagine that re-molding will make the liners take up more volume in the boot, which is the ideal. Should I just ski them as is until they get packed out and buy new liners?

Thanks guys.

[Bird Blaster]

After skiing them for 3 days, the right heel pocket feels pretty good, actually very good. It is the left that feels like it wants to lift up. Maybe I didn't mold the left heel pocket as well, I think I will try it again.

[mntlion]

Boss: just ski em... heating will just help to speed up what ever is going to happen anyways...

if that shell fits, you shouldn;t have to buy new liners for 100+ days.