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  1. #126
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    11
    If checking full tilts for size... and hoping i didn't miss too much in this thread... can I pretty much look at anything to get a good idea of size and width fit... or where would be the major difference points between the lines? (pro/all mountain same fit, then freeride/freestyle different fit... or what). These are looking intriguing for my 30ish low volume, low-firm arch feet.

  2. #127
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Wasatch
    Posts
    7,227
    I have B width and higher instep. I got Seth off BC.com and ordered an 8 toungue from Kittridge in mammoth.
    The active bootboard is a plus. Liner is the best (powerwrap) for my skinny calves.
    310 is 27.5
    And I like em.............
    I need to go to Utah.
    Utah?
    Yeah, Utah. It's wedged in between Wyoming and Nevada. You've seen pictures of it, right?

    So after 15 years we finally made it to Utah.....


    Thanks BCSAR and POWMOW Ski Patrol for rescues

    8, 17, 13, 18, 16, 18, 20, 19, 16, 24, 32, 35

    2021/2022 (13/15)

  3. #128
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Banff
    Posts
    22,192
    all FT's fit the same.

    rubber vs hard bootboards
    metal vs plastic buckles
    tongue flex.
    liner thickness.


  4. #129
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    1,069
    what size liner would you recommend for the size 25.5 krypton? Mine are 2 years old and I am not sure what size liner to get, low volume Intuition or regular?
    Quote Originally Posted by leroy jenkins View Post
    Do you have one of those gay ass stickers on your car? If so, I'll bet money youre an uptight passive aggressive fucktard that hates anyone different than them, yet loves to pay lip service to 'tolerance'.

    People with coexist stickers are ALMOST as bad as tele skiers, although there is some overlap.

  5. #130
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Banff
    Posts
    22,192
    call and ask intution.

    odds are an 8. reg.


  6. #131
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    28
    Here's my experience with the two boots.
    Background: I’m 6’4” 190 lbs. w/narrow low vol feet and skinny lower legs/ankles. Have never been completely satisfied with the fit of any boot.

    Bought some Krypton Pro’s in 2008 with the cheap-0 liner. Had to heavily pad the ankles for any real control. Preferred the soft silver tongue without any of the shell stiffening tabs out back or forward lean tabs.
    In most conditions the boot was pretty damn sweet but in deep and heavy snow I’d have to really crank the middle buckle to keep feet and ankles secure. With the middle buckle under a lot of tension, the boots stiffness seemed to go through the roof. Weird. So, I would often have to compromise and back it off.

    Eventually, I bought some aftermarket intuition power-wraps and got them baked by a local shop. New cork footbeds too. The liners felt great except that they didn’t come close to keeping my ankles in place. Grudgingly I padded up the intuitions too. Around this time it became apparent that one of the Krypton shells had an inch long crack right under the lower cable in the middle of the boot. Boots still work fine but it seems like things could be better for me so I start looking at full tilts.

    Got a nice deal on some new Konflicts. At first look they do indeed look cheap and toy-like compared to the Kryptons. With the extra ankle pads taken off, the size 10 power-wraps baked for the bsl 326 Kryptons fit right into the 318 full tilts. My power-wraps seems a bit more burly than the green FT version so those will sit on the shelf. Tried the FT’s out at the bird yesterday and have seen the light. Sooo much less ankle and legs slop with these. Took about half a run to feel completely at home. It never seemed necessary to crank the cables down very hard. They ski very similar to the Kryptons with possibly a bit smoother flex. I’m sure they give something up to the Kryptons but so far, not to me. Oh yeah, around the house, the full tilt boot board angle seemed way steep, like on high heels as some have said. On the snow it was a non issue.

    I’m instantly sold on the full tilts. Hopefully they hold up ok. I was surprised that the kryptons didn’t. There are so many rippers on Kryptons out here and only a few on FT’s. Could just be that there are fewer super skinny dudes like myself. Like most everyone says, this particular choice just comes down to what fits you best. If you’ve got way skinny lower extremities, you really should consider the FT’s. Wish I had been skiing Flexons the past few decades.

    One final note: REI’s return policy is awesome. They gave me a full refund on the well used Kryptons. I could have tried for a warranty replacement because of the cracked shell but Dalbello is out of them anyway. In the end, the Dalbello to FT switch cost me $50.

  7. #132
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Banff
    Posts
    22,192
    Katoom: sounds like the lower volume and size smaller in the FT's is what worked for you. (not sure that the FT itself is the answer, but glad it is all working)


  8. #133
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    156
    I switched from a fulltilt konflict to a a krypton pro. The konflict bit into my ankles too much and the boot fitter said they could really fix it.

    I went from a size 29 full tilt to a 29 krypton pro....but the krypton pro is around 10mm longer bsl..do you think that will matter much in terms of fit? I tried downsizing to a 28.5 krypton pro but it was just too tight.
    Last edited by jaredstrauss; 03-25-2010 at 09:06 AM.

  9. #134
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Banff
    Posts
    22,192
    how is the shell fit in both of them?

    the FT might have been to tight in the ankle, but why can't the boot fitter just make it bigger?
    10mm longer BSL = 10mm bigger shell fit PLUS a bigger volume boot might = problems.

    I would shell fit the 28 krypton (maybe try it on with your FT liner?)


  10. #135
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Posts
    6,097
    Quote Originally Posted by jaredstrauss View Post
    I switched from a fulltilt konflict to a a krypton pro. The konflict bit into my ankles too much and the boot fitter said they could really fix it.

    I went from a size 29 full tilt to a 29 krypton pro....but the krypton pro is around 10mm longer bsl..do you think that will matter much in terms of fit? I tried downsizing to a 28.5 krypton pro but it was just too tight.
    FT has a short BSL for their size. Kryptons are long for their shell size. It's the inside of the boot that matters, not the outside.

  11. #136
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    3,673
    so there is nothing softer than the C tongue for a krypton...correct...does a D exist?
    Do I detect a lot of anger flowing around this place? Kind of like a pubescent volatility, some angst, a lot of I'm-sixteen-and-angry-at-my-father syndrome?

    fuck that noise.

    gmen.

  12. #137
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Nowhere
    Posts
    4,957
    I went to try on Kryptons yesterday and the shop did not have my size in stock. Ended up trying on the voodoo, which is a larger last, 102 I think. Last was too big, but length was right in a 28.5. I did the shell fit and had just under an inch behind my foot, maybe could have gone down to a 27.5. Anyway, the Kryptons smaller last is the right size for me. The only problem I had with the voodoo was that my calves were taking a lot of abuse. I wore them for probably 30 minutes or so and it was cutting off circulation. The buckle was set to the second notch and screwed into the middle hole, so I could have moved it to the last hole and made it larger, and I'm guessing it then would have fit my large calves. Does anyone know how the upper ankle/calf fit of the Voodoo compares to the Krypton? It's really hard to find a shop around here with Kryptons.
    I'm in a band. It's called "Just the Tip."

  13. #138
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Posts
    6,097
    Quote Originally Posted by PaSucks View Post
    Does anyone know how the upper ankle/calf fit of the Voodoo compares to the Krypton? It's really hard to find a shop around here with Kryptons.
    They're similar AFAIK. It's the lower boot that's substantially different: the Voodoo/Blender has a LOT more room above the instep in addition to being much wider.

    If you have fat calves and the top rear of the shell is biting into them, try taking out the pad and/or spoiler in the back of the upper shell. Almost every ski boot has these, so this holds true no matter what boot you're trying on. This will leave your foot more upright, so you may have to mess with forward lean to compensate.

  14. #139
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    WA
    Posts
    2,524
    Quote Originally Posted by PaSucks View Post
    Last was too big, but length was right in a 28.5. I did the shell fit and had just under an inch behind my foot, maybe could have gone down to a 27.5.
    An inch is way too much. Go down a full shell size. Really.

  15. #140
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Banff
    Posts
    22,192
    1" = 2.5cm = 1-2 sizes too big.

    5-15mm is a good range for a shell fit


  16. #141
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    430
    Quote Originally Posted by mntlion View Post
    for the most part it will just stiffen the F flex (unless you are REALLY skiiny legs and the tongue almost goes to the side of the shell)

    #8 = 100ish
    #9 = 120 ish
    #10 = 140ish

    big jumps in flex.
    I'd like to update this post with my experiences as of late. I know that the flex index values are not standardized across manufacturers, but after trying a few different "race" inspired 4-buckle 2-piece shell boots with flex index values of 120-140 I would say that mntlion's post about the FT tongue flexes is a bit inaccurate.

    My ratings would be:

    #6 - 80ish
    #8 - 90-100ish
    #10 - 110ish

    I've never skied the #9 tongue.

    When trying the 4-buckle boots I had the Full Tilt First Chair (#10 tongue) on one foot while testing the other new boots. The First Chair wasn't anywhere near as stiff as the so-called race boots. Note that this of course was done at room temp so maybe things would be different on the mountain (different plastics firm up differently at colder temps).

  17. #142
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    430
    Quote Originally Posted by mntlion View Post
    you can add a Tnut to attach the lower boot and the upper rear cuff together (just behind the middle buckle) that makes the boot ALOT stiffer. changes the flex a bit, as you are not just flexing the boots tongue, but having to flex the rear spine too. Some people find the change makes the boot ski more like a "normal" 2 part boot, but if that makes the boot stiff enougth to be skiable for you then great. Also if you dont like it, just remove the T nuts and you are back to normal (but with added speed holes in the shell)
    mntlion - would you please elaborate on using a T-nut to stiffen the flex on the Flexon? You said to put it "behind the middle buckle" so are you putting just a single screw through the rear spine (right in the middle) or are you putting a screw through each side just behind the position where the middle buckle is located?

    I'm thinking that one T-nut located on the rear spine might change the fit around my achilles since you would have to position it fairly low and in the curvature of that critical area. Wouldn't 2 screws positioned to each side and run through the "wings" of the rear of the lower shell work just as well? These spots are flatter and seem less likely to cause fit or shell problems.

  18. #143
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Banff
    Posts
    22,192
    you get this all worked out? or need some pics?


  19. #144
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    430
    Quote Originally Posted by mntlion View Post
    you get this all worked out? or need some pics?
    If you have pics (and it's not too much trouble) I sure would appreciate seeing them before I permanently modify my shells.

  20. #145
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    69
    I really want full tilts to work for me and I find that it fits fine except that my calf is pretty big so I can't put the tongue all the way down fully. This results in me not being able to close up the cables. Is there a way I could make the calf area bigger? Because I've been wanting these for a while. Do you think the new influence shells will have or be a better fit for a bigger calf?

  21. #146
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Banff
    Posts
    22,192
    remove the rear spoiler,

    longer cables


  22. #147
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    69
    Ok I'll try that. But if I get new cables, what size do you think I should get? Will the biggest cable be way big?

  23. #148
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    430
    Wasatch Ripper -

    Where the top cable is connected in the rear cuff there are 3 clips in the cable insert which also change the length of usable cable. Get the 255mm cable and install it using the longest setting of the 3 available.

    And definitely remove the rear spoiler like mntlion said.

  24. #149
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    The Ice Coast
    Posts
    945
    So I just purchased a pair of Krypton Crosses, same last and shell as the Pro with a coupla fewer bells and whistles. Am loving the general feel, but less clear on how this is supposed to fit compared to a overlap design. Bought the 27.5, which is my standard alpine size, and 17 mm behind heel. My other overlaps have tended to run 12-15 mm. With standard non-Intuition liner, feels about right in back, super snug in front. (I'm 101-103 last across ball, so some stretching will be needed.) Tried the 26.5, could not get clear shell measurement, felt short (toes still pressing against front even when flexed). But using mntlion's calculation, would be 7 mm. In the shop, they felt the 27.5 was appropriate, based both on shell and on superior heel hold of the cabrio design. So educated opinions? Am I between shell sizes here? Does the cabrio design require less tightness in back?

  25. #150
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    69
    Thanks for the help guys! I'll try that and see how it works.

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