Anyone have Formula brakes?

**beaterdit** · 06-24-2009, 12:25 PM

Liking this thread.

Looking at Megas for new 5.5, looks like Formulas are winners.

**PeachesN'Cream** · 06-24-2009, 01:38 PM

I'm Shimano curious because of ease of service and no nasty DOT4.

However I now have 2 sets of K24's in the house and the means to service them. No rush to change it up unless I'm parts whoring.

**lph** · 06-24-2009, 08:40 PM

I have been on the Formula the one brakes, 8" front, 7" rear all year on an intense SS used as a trail bike.

holy shit, these thing are amazing. the combination of stopping power and modulation gives me the most control i have ever felt on a bike. IMVHO, they are superior to the juicy 7 in all respects (and I thought the juicy 7's were incredible before i got the Formulas)

oh and only brake i have ever owned that has yet to fade on long descents even in the slightest.

**Ripzalot** · 06-25-2009, 01:51 AM

btw, can anyone explain what the little fcs adjustment control inside the formula brake lever handle actually does? i can't find a good explanation and i can't feel for what it's supposed to be doing

**skibumnh** · 06-25-2009, 09:14 AM

Originally Posted by Ripzalot

btw, can anyone explain what the little fcs adjustment control inside the formula brake lever handle actually does? i can't find a good explanation and i can't feel for what it's supposed to be doing

Im pretty sure its for lever throw/contact adjustment so you can dial them in to your preference. FWIW, the FCS can be purchased and added to the K18 for cheaper than the K24's cost. This is the only difference between the two models as far as I can tell. I prefer ninja black to bling white, so Ill probably go the K18 route myself.

**skibumnh** · 06-25-2009, 09:19 AM

Can anyone give a real-world comparison between the Mega and the Oro's? I can actually find some megas for cheaper than K24's - any reason I shouldn't pull the trigger on that?

**Ripzalot** · 06-26-2009, 12:21 AM

Originally Posted by skibumnh

Im pretty sure its for lever throw/contact adjustment so you can dial them in to your preference.

i still don't know what that means.

and when you install new pads, should the fcs go fully one way or the other?

**skibumnh** · 06-26-2009, 05:34 AM

Originally Posted by Ripzalot

i still don't know what that means.

and when you install new pads, should the fcs go fully one way or the other?

Ok, with hydro brakes its pretty simple, squeeze lever -> compress fluid -> stop bike. Without the FCS, the distance you pull the level before the brake pad engages is predetermined, and cannot be adjusted. Added to that is the fact that front and rear brakes have different line length, and that causes a variance between the two in the level-pull distance before the pad engages. FCS solves that problem by allowing you to fine tune that lever throw to your personal preference, as well as balance the front and rear so they are equivalent.

**Ripzalot** · 06-26-2009, 12:46 PM

how is this different from the dials on the base of the levers that, what i would describe as, adjust the lever throw?

**ColinB** · 06-26-2009, 12:53 PM

it adjusts the pad contact point versus lever throw. The lever throw adjustment brings the lever closer to the bar, the FCS adjust changes where in the range of motion for the lever your pads contact the rotor.

**toast2266** · 06-26-2009, 12:59 PM

Originally Posted by skibumnh

Added to that is the fact that front and rear brakes have different line length, and that causes a variance between the two in the level-pull distance before the pad engages.

why would line length make any difference for lever throw?

I could see it making a difference for lever feel (more hose length might make it feel a little spongier / softer), but I don't see any reason for it to affect throw.

**PeachesN'Cream** · 06-26-2009, 02:08 PM

FCS basically fine tunes the master piston position without moving the lever. Turning the FCS pushes the piston in just a wee bit thus pushing a little more fluid into the line, caliper and ultimately controls how far the pads need to travel before contacting the rotor.

As pads wear you can adjust so the pads still engage at the same point in the lever stroke. You can also adjust so the front and rear engage at the same point.

You can add FCS to the K18 at a later date, $12 for each lever I believe, and requires a full tear down of the lever. It's not terribly hard to install if you are okay working on small stuff and dealing with nasty Dot4 fluid. You'll have to re-bleed at the same time, thus need a bleed kit and fluid. Good things to have anyway.

**Ripzalot** · 06-27-2009, 02:25 AM

Originally Posted by PeachesN'Cream

FCS basically fine tunes the master piston position without moving the lever. Turning the FCS pushes the piston in just a wee bit thus pushing a little more fluid into the line, caliper and ultimately controls how far the pads need to travel before contacting the rotor.

As pads wear you can adjust so the pads still engage at the same point in the lever stroke. You can also adjust so the front and rear engage at the same point.

that's what i had assumed from the beginning. odd that the formula manuals don't give hardly any description at all. still, i can't tell any difference between the fcs fully one way or the other.

**backcountry1pr** · 07-09-2009, 11:39 AM

Looking at some Bianco's. Can anyone tell me what the deal is with these?

They seem to be the same lever/body as the k18/k24, is the only difference the pads/levers?

If so can you run k18/k24 pads/rotors in em?

They seem to be pretty sweet. Worth upgrading from juicy 7's?

Can anyone compare them to Avid Elixir's or Marta SL's?

**ColinB** · 07-09-2009, 12:42 PM

they have a nicer lever on them, i upgraded the levers on my k24's to the lever from the bianco, and they have the better pads in them stock that don't get worn down like pencil erasers.

**upallnight** · 07-10-2009, 05:58 PM

saw the love-fest in here re: formulas and thought that someone might want to benefit from this. i'm selling a pair of brand-new/in-the-box "THE ONES" [ame="http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/showthread.php?t=163543"]here[/ame] / approx. $420 for the full caliper-lever-hose-prebled set (front & rear).

you'd be fairly hard-pressed to find them for under $520 or so, and most sources are closer to $300 per brake, but they definitely are pricier than the megas and k24s/k18s.

these are DH power @ XC weight. i totally agree with the comment above about zero brake fade.

i've been running 180 front & rear rotors in the past. with "the ones", i switched to a 160 rear rotor and found that they are more powerful than what i had....even with brand new pads & rotors.

**PeachesN'Cream** · 07-11-2009, 12:08 AM

Somebody swoop those up so I don't get tempted

**upallnight** · 07-11-2009, 01:17 PM

Originally Posted by PeachesN'Cream

Somebody swoop those up so I don't get tempted

not to tempt you further, but i've been pretty impressed by the ease of adjustability of reach + engagement. i found i initially set the levers too far out as i figured they would fade on long descents + i'd have to squeeze tighter, but i find i can run the levers much close to the bars. it's meant my fingers start out in -- and stay in -- a much more comfortable position.

(if the price is close for you, i could probably ship them free, USPS priority. ;-))

**funkendrenchman** · 07-19-2009, 10:11 PM

Any killer deals on Formulas out there? I'm looking to upgrade from my Juicy 7s.

**skibumnh** · 07-20-2009, 09:17 AM

Not sure about killer deals, try a google search for the lowest price, and then pricematch to the reputable online retailer of your choice.

I just put the Mega's (180/160) on my Pitch Pro to replace the Juicy 3's. I had no idea what I was missing. Went from zero modulation to ABS for mountain bikes. There is so much even-tempered stopping power on demand, and that is even with downsizing from the stock rotor size of 203/185. Install took all of 20 min, and if anyone is wondering the 165cm Rears are close (ever so slightly long, but not a snag hazard at all, and definitely not worth trimming) to the perfect line length for a Medium Pitch Pro. 85cm fronts are spot on.

**knumbskull** · 07-20-2009, 11:50 AM

I'd just like to say that my Biancos are awesome

**funkendrenchman** · 03-07-2010, 05:33 PM

Any suggestions for bleeding Oros? I am using a Juicy kit and followed the directions on the Formula website. I can't get the lever to feel firm enough. Any other tricks?

**Subluxation** · 03-10-2010, 04:35 PM

Hayes fan turned Formula Addict. I'm currently running Megas on my rig and can't say enough good things about the knocking it out of the box, out of the box performance of these brakes. Though I might have saved a few hundred grams on my SS going w/ the 18s, 24s, or the R1s I am loving the stopping power and feather-ability of the Formulas. Low maintanence and easy to work on when necessary.

**cowdog** · 03-11-2010, 10:09 AM

Originally Posted by funkendrenchman

Any suggestions for bleeding Oros? I am using a Juicy kit and followed the directions on the Formula website. I can't get the lever to feel firm enough. Any other tricks?

I don't know if the Oros are similar or if this is your issue. With the ones, the levers engage late in the squeeze. The modulation and power are there, just close to the bars -- feels mushy at first. Coming from Juicy's and Magura Louise's, I wasn't sure I liked that. Juicys felt firm to me as soon as I started to pull, but always took too much force to get the power I wanted. The Maguras were better. Now I love The Ones. I feel like I am working more compactly with the brake levers as part of the bars. The Ones also had a longer break in period than other brakes I have tried. I bled them several times before I realized that wasn't the issue.

I recall some "fixes" for the "late" engagement posted by a Formula USA brake person over at mtbr. I may recall incorrectly, but one was to pull in the levers once with the wheel off, working the pistons out just a bit to get an earlier lever engagement.

I have found that the Avid bleed instructions (nice videos) work great with my Formula brakes. I also just use an Avid bleed kit.

Not sure if any of this helps or not.