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06-25-2008, 12:52 PM #1
TR: 3 Weeks in the PNW - Dial up need not apply
This TR is LONG
This TR is WEAK on action shots
This TR is Wordy
I’ve broken it up into sections to make it more manageable, but this is a huge and cumbersome TR no matter how you look at it. It has over 4 pages of text and around 150 pictures. Plan your viewing accordingly.
Table of Contents:
III. Chinook Powder
IV. Down Day in Bremmerton
VI. Birthday Tour
VIII. St. Helens
XI. Final Tour
I. Introduction .
Around the middle of March I was having such a good ski year that I decided skiing until May just wasn’t enough, I wanted it to keep going. I’d accomplished almost all of my seasonal goals and skied far more days than I ever had before, but I still wasn’t satisfied. I started asking around but none of my normal partners could go on a summer trip so I figured I’d just put together a solo trip. On other trips when I’ve traveled alone people had been very friendly, open, and helpful, so I decided to take a gamble and rely on other skiers to make the trip possible and fun. My plan was head for the PNW where people actually ski in the summer, and try and make some turns while seeing new country.
As some of you may recall, I started a thread on both TGR and TAY asking for partners and places to stay. The replies were encouraging, so I bought a plane ticket and hoped for the best. I got many PM’s and ended up with a page full of phone numbers of PNW skiers who’d invited me on trips.
The only person however who’d give me a definite answer on something to do right away was a guy from TAY named James who said he would pick me up from the airport and that we’d figure out some place to go ski. After chasing the sunset across the country I landed in SEATAC and after some worry about weather he’d be there or not, James showed up in his old Plymouth van. James can be a rather overwhelming guy, but I was way too tired to really notice it when I first arrived.
After sleeping in his roommates room we got our stuff together, checked the forecast, found out it wasn’t looking very good and decided to head up to the North Cascades highway to try and ski some stuff at the head of Swamp Creek near rainy pass. It was an area that James hadn’t been before and we were hoping to get up a peak in the area, but we didn’t really dodge the weather as we’d hoped.
I soon discovered that being cold, jet-lagged, super tired, and hiking around with no view in boots that are horribly miss-fit is not an enjoyable way to spend a vacation. I did ok the first day, but bonked super hard the second day, my boots were cramping up my whole legs and I was just too tired to function. We aimed for a peak, and didn’t get it due to some route finding problems but in the process I ran completely out of energy and started getting hypothermic. I spent the afternoon sleeping in the tent while James skied around the area checking stuff out. The next morning we hiked out several miles on dry ground back to the van.
– home sweet hell for two nights of adjusting to my new surroundings.
– approaching the base of the climb
– about where we topped out, we were looking for a snow filled gully to the top, but it just wasn’t there. It turned out we had gone up the totally wrong couloir.
– the ride down didn’t look too bad though, we’d gotten almost 6 inches of heavy snow the night before.
– Across the valley. how’s that for a climax slide…
– looking back up the head of Swamp creek, the road is the PCT
When I took my feet out of my boots I could hardly walk on them and I couldn’t feel the entire outer side of either foot. It was extremely frustrating, the boots were new, I got them molded, but they just didn’t work and I wasn’t motivated to ski at all. It was pretty dumb of me to try new gear on a big trip also. So we drove the rest of the highway over to the east side and did some tourist style sight seeing. And camped at a beautiful campsite up a forest road in Winthrop. The next morning we drove back to Seattle, and roamed around the city for a while looking for a good boot fitter. I can’t speak highly enough of Sturnavans, they saved my trip by punching out the plastic on the side of my boots and making them wearable again. They only charged $30 bucks and promised to work on them in the future for free if more work was required. That’s a lot more than I can say for Alpine Shop in Burlington Vermont who charged me $100 to just mold the liners. In retrospect Alpine shop’s prices are practically criminal. As compared to the service I got at Sturnavans. Anyway, after getting my boots worked on we went down to lake Washington and helped James’s uncle refinish his sailboat for a few hours. While we were down on the water the clouds lifted and I got my first real view of the mountains from the city in the form of a spectacular view of rainier over lake Washington. My feet still hurt, but I was starting to want to ski again.
– view of the Liberty bell on the way back West
- view of rainier from jame’s uncles boat.
Last edited by samthaman; 06-25-2008 at 01:18 PM.
06-25-2008, 12:53 PM #2
III – Chinook Powder
The next morning we got a late start and drove up to Chinook pass to go find some corn. We had a fun time exploring the area and finally got some fun in the sun, that is until the afternoon when a large unseasonably cold storm blew in and started dumping heavy wet snow at about and inch an hour. The already saturated corn began to get overloaded and a short tour off of Natches peak got a little interesting when James took a slow speed ride in a slough for about 50 feet. It was getting a little late and the snow was getting sketchy so we called it a day and went down to a small forest service camp by the entrance to Crystal Mt. and car camped for the night. The rangers were optimistic about keeping the road open the next morning so we set the alarm for 430 in the hopes of getting some fresh.
– 3 pinner James, taking in the view of Sunrise before dropping in
– Rainier tried to poke through the clouds
– James dropping in
430 rolled around and we awoke to a dusting of fresh snow at 2400 feet. I don’t care where you’re from; if it snows at 2400 feet in June it’s going to be a good day. We packed up and drove back to the pass finding ever more snow as we increased in elevation. At the height of the pass the new snow totaled around 8 inches in the parking lot, and after getting James’s van stuck in the middle of an unplowed parking lot we met up with Scotsman and Snow Bell who wisely decided to leave their car on the road. They helped us get un-stuck and we all drove to a lower, plowed lot, geared up and put a track up the snow covered slope in the low dawn light. The first lap was over too quickly so we went all the way to the top of Naches peak for the second and skied back down to the road. At the bottom Scotsman informed us that he had to leave for “work” or something but before he could leave a lone skier emerged from growing haze, a man with immense “local knowledge”, a dynafit hero if you will, Joedabaker from TAY. Joe proceeded to lead us confidently through the fog, breaking most of the trail himself for the entire day and showing us some of the best shots in the area. As the temperature rose, the fog rolled in even thicker but Joe continued to lead us around without missing a beat and never making a wrong turn. We did several car shuttles and probably scared a few tourists who discovered snow bell and I making oatmeal in a forest service bathroom at one point. The snow got thick and heavy but we refused to give up on this June-uary snow and continued to ski it until 4 when it started to get dark again and Joedabaker had to leave. The three remaining skiers, James, joe, and myself, piled into James’s van and headed back to Tacoma with happy smiles on our faces.
– Scotsman making his way uphill before work
– James breaking trail in the early morning light.
– Joe and James breaking trail to the top of Naches Peak
– SnowBell slaying the fresh June-uary pow
– Joe was faster than my camera and came out blurry
– 3 pinner james getting damn low.
– Scotsman trying out his new stealth ski gear, see if you can spot him
– Scotsman getting a face shot before work on a Tuesday in June, not bad sir, not bad at all
– If you turn your head, you can tell that he’s on a bit of a steeper slope and he's killing it on the wailers
– Joedabaker dropping into the mist off naches peak
– Checking out the route we just skied.
06-25-2008, 12:54 PM #3
IV – Down day in Bremmerton
On the way home Joe offered to let me stay at his place in Bremmerton that night, I’d been with James for my entire journey at that point so I decided to take my leave of him and head to Bremerton. His wife and two young children couldn’t have been more gracious hosts, they even cooked me breakfast the next morning. The next day was Joe’s birthday, I didn’t want to third wheel it, but he insisted that we hang out for the day. I needed a rest day and wasn’t supposed to meet my next contact until that night so I accepted. We hung around playing with his kids for a while until they left at which point we ate lunch and pulled out the Super Nintendo. Nothing like a couple of beers and some Street Fighter II on super Nintendo as a great rest day activity. After a great SNES session Joe took me to the ferry which I rode for free over to Seattle.
– with a grin like that we’d have had to be playing a silly old video game
– Street fighter!!!
– Notice that it’s yellowed with age
– View of Seattle from the ferry
In Seattle I was met by Jpark42 from TAY, an OR employee who was intent on climbing Adams. With high pressure in the forecast, we crashed at his place and got a mid morning start the next day, arriving at Adams around noon. The road still had a lot of snow on it so we had to skin and hike almost 6 miles to get to the base camp. We camped at a beautiful spot at the wilderness boundary around 6300 feet and got a great view of Adams, St. Helens, and hood as the sun went down.
– Adams on the drive in
– Gearing up
– Skinning past the cold creek campsite
– this campsite did not suck
– Hood to the south, I’d get there soon.
– they give you these little targets that I found hilarious, guess what they’re for…
We awoke to find our food missing, it was Friday the 13th and this seemed to be a bad start. Goddamn animals. The missing food and the high winds we could see blowing the clouds over the summit seemed to make sumiting more questionable than it had seemed the day before, but we headed up to see how high we could get. It was a fairly mellow, but super long skin up to the summit. High on the Mazama glacier I got quite a ways ahead of Jeremy and waited on the false summit for him for a few minutes, finally I looked back down to make sure he was ok and he called for me to go on to the summit so I geared back up and marched on. Except for a small section on the way to the true summit, I was able to skin the entire way to the summit. My altimeter was more than 1000 feet low when I topped out and as I hiked up to the real summit I was really hoping that the map and not the altimeter had the correct elevation, sure enough though, as I got near the summit, the rest of the mountain fell away and Rainier came into view to the north.
– these clouds were flying over the summit in the morning, a worrying sign
– Mid-slog on the way up
– we ended up skiing down past the furthest visible snowy point in this picture
– I’d been told the volcanoes were basically huge piles of sand, but it didn’t really hit me until we stopped at this rest and were essentially sitting on a massive pile of volcanic sand.
– high on the Mazama glacier
– Glacier ice, wow I guess we are on a glacier
– Looking SE down onto the Yakima Indian res
I hung out taking picture and enjoying the view for about 20 minutes, but the wind was picking up and it looked like some clouds could possibly be forming into a front off to the west. I skied the super clattery rime ice for 1000 feet do the false summit where I met back up with Jeremy and commenced our massive descent of the mazama and crescent glaciers back to the campsite. The corn was just about as good as it gets from the false summit at 11500 feet to the campsite at 6500 feet, but it got rotten and patchy as we did the kick and glide all the way back to the car at 4900 feet. We were both exhausted as we got to the car around 5 and were both very hungry and decided to hit the nearest good food which turned out to be a Mexican place in white salmon WA. After an extremely satisfying dinner we hit the road for the long drive back to Seattle and got in a little after midnight. We were both wiped out and passed out quickly.
– dorky summit self portrait
– Rainier poking through
– St. Helens even poked through
– the pinnacle , I’m sure some of those chutes go, but I didn’t get a chance to check myself
– Wow, this is going to be a long run
– only 6 thousand more feet to go… (Jeremy down below)
06-25-2008, 12:55 PM #4
VI. – The birthday tour
The next day was a rest day, I slept in late and Jeremy took me to a Laundromat where I was finally able to wash some of my super nasty gear and get on the internet. While doing laundry I was able to get a hold of BigSteve and his friend Shawn who were going to be doing the birthday tour the following day. Jeremey gave me a ride to Shawn’s house and I settled in for the night. Shawn’s house is an awesome old house that’s gotten a little run down and he’s now working to fix. When I first met him he was a stressed out Microsoft contractor but still excited to ski and get out to Washington pass.
At 4 the next morning we got up and piled into his Subaru and headed off for the north cascades highway to meet Bigsteve and his girlfriend Anita who had stayed in Steve’s pop-top at the trail head. On the way we noticed something in the middle of the road and slowed down, it was a bobcat eating some road-kill. I’d never seen a bobcat before and was only able to get a half blurry Bigfoot style shot of it as it walked off in to the woods. We met up with them around 8 and got ready to hike, the snow was a slippery Styrofoam but despite not having ski crampons I was able to keep up with the rest of the crew. As we broke through the trees we could tell that it was going to be a great day, the snow was only starting to soften and we were getting great views of the Golden horn, the Early winter spires and the basin behind the high cornice. The day turned out to be a great, mellow tour on spectacular corn with great views. Everyone knows that the birthday tour is a classic and I can’t agree more.
– the bobcat/Bigfoot picture
– the early winter spires
– Shawn and Anita leading the way
– The golden horn? – feel free to correct me
– a week earlier and these would have gone.
– the cornice of death, actually frozen solid still
– south early winter spire, right?
– Anita topping out
– more than anything on the trip I wanted to hit this chute. Now I’ve got a reason to return though.
– sticks and scenery
– the first example of me screwing up the focus on an otherwise awesome shot
– I’d want stealth rubber on that terrain
– Bigsteve on the first downhill section
– Looking west on the NCH
06-25-2008, 12:55 PM #5
VII – Baker
Shawn and I left at around 3 for Seattle as I was trying to meet up with snowbell from TAY to climb St. Helens. I wasn’t able to make it back in time though so I borrowed Shawn’s computer and looked for some other partners. The only other mid-week partner I could find was mangerk – Kyle, from Bellingham who wanted to go up Baker, so I made plans to catch the noon bus from Seattle to Bellingham the next day.
Shawn was kind enough to buy me breakfast in the morning and drop me off at the bus station. I barely made it, but ended up on a very comfortable coach with leather seats heading for Bellingham. Kyle met me at the bus station and we headed right out for Baker. That afternoon we did the several mile approach hike up to a rock shoulder at 6500 feet and set up camp. While we ate dinner we got great views of Bellingham the sound and the alpenglow on Baker. There were some patchy clouds and the following day had a “partly cloudy forecast but we didn’t worry about it as we went to bed and set the alarm for 4am.
– covering ground and getting up towards camp
– this picture just screams soul (not my tracks though)
– the view north from camp
– Northwest with mangerk in the photo
– Baker revealed itself
– master snow-melter
– alpenglow on baker
– I blew the focus on the ultimate sucker hole photo
We awoke to fast moving pea soup a few hundred feet above us, and blowing in fast. We ate some breakfast and set off for the summit hoping the weather would clear. As we marched up the Coleman-Demming route it became foggier and foggier and got windier in the process. When we hit the col just above the glacier the visibility was down to about 30 feet. Kyle wasn’t stoked on the situation and was considering turning around, but there was a rock band heading straight uphill from the Col to the “Roman Wall”, I suggested we press on until visibility improved or we couldn’t handrail any further. We cramponed up and started booting with out any improvement in visibility for several hundred feet. It wasn’t until the rocks started to run out that we hit a few sucker holes and realized that we were almost at the top of the wall. As we pressed on we passed a guided party getting belayed down the roman wall for some reason and then soon hit the summit. Except for the top 100 or 150 vertical feet of the top of Baker all of Washington and southern BC was clouded in. We didn’t get a great view of the valley, but we did get a pretty spectacular view regardless. We then had the matter of finding our way down through a dense 5000 foot tall cloud layer over a glacier while traversing left on ambiguous terrain and finding our campsite. It was pretty stressful endeavor and took a very long time, but after feeling our way through the vertigo inducing “I can’t see my tips” mist we finally hit a rock band that we struggled to find on the map. While we were pouring over the map and looking at pictures from the day before a brief sucker hole opened up and we saw our tent about 200 yards across the drainage back in the direction we had come from. A few seconds later the view was gone, but it was enough to find the gear. After eating some noodles we packed up the tent and skied down to the car on wet snow. We were both extremely wiped out, but somehow found the strength to down some massive burgers before passing out at Kyle’s apartment.
– getting ready to go with clouds rolling in
– Heading up along the Coleman-Demming
– Sunrise through the clouds on Baker
– “Hmm, lets stay away from those on the way back”
– Kyle on the climb
– nearing the col, as you can tell from the tracks, Baker was hit hard the weekend before.
– the obligatory dorky summit shot
– me. Notice the non-view in the background, it felt like being in an airplane.
– me skiing the roman ramp in total rime
– Kyle about to enter the sensory depravation glacier
06-25-2008, 12:56 PM #6
VIII – St. Helens
The next day we got up slowly and thought about doing a smaller tour in the area but were too exhausted still. We started checking forecasts though in the hopes of getting a shot at Rainier later in the week, but the forecast was calling for more “partly cloudy” and we didn’t want to risk it on a Rainier. Instead we looked further south to St. Helens and Mt. Hood where the forecasts were looking more promising. We decided that doing them back-to-back Thursday and Friday could be an exhausting but awesome two days. We packed up in Bellingham and hit the road for St. Helens. We barely checked in in time to pick up the passes as we had attempted to drive south from Rawlins but discovered that the forest road was still closed. We camped out at the approach to the hikers bivouac and, then in the morning mistakenly set off up the hikers bivouac road to go up St. Helens. This was no the way to go. We ended up hiking the 4.5 miles up the actual Climbers bivouac then encountering some route finding problems as we tried to get the rest of the way up to the top, but 930 we were only at around 4500 or 5000 feet and were already tired and unmotivated, also the snow was softening and it was hard to find the motivation to press on so we hung out for a while eating before deciding to bag it completely and head to Hood. Hood looked a lot cooler and frankly I just wanted to climb it more than I did St. Helens.
– some funny signage on the way there
– I’ve never used and iceaxe to get into a bathroom before.
– me enjoying the day at our high point
– Kyle making some turns on the huge hole
PICT0049 – one of the many things I learned on this trip is that its hard to ski with a hat with a visor at any speed.
– cool lenticular (sp?) clouds on adams
We checked out the lava caves on the way out.
– well if I can grill and drink with my dog while shooting off my gun and some fireworks, I really see no reason in going down at all…..
– this was one of the biggest caves I’ve ever been in.
06-25-2008, 12:57 PM #7
After the caves we headed to the Timberline lot, which was surprisingly quite a scene. The car two over from where we were parked had an “Outdoor Gear Exchange” and “Long Trail Ales” sticker on it, two Vermont institutions that aren’t far from my house. It turned out that the car belonged to a former Jeffersonville native who’d skied a lot of the same places I had back home. It was a pretty fun coincidence.
– the road approach
– I’m not sure of the legality of paragliding off the mountain but I will say that it looked pretty badass
– Wow what rugged features! And oh look at the mountain too…
– Kyle manning the yard sale, notice the Volvo two cars over with the OGE sticker
We got up at 430 the next day and were hiking by 530. Kyle wasn’t feeling well so he stopped shy of the hogs-back, but I hit the hogs back at around 930-10 and topped out at 10:30. On the way up I was constantly getting questions about the skis, like people had never seen them past the hog’s-back before. Frankly it struck me as a little strange, some of the best racers and freestylers in the world were skiing down below on the lifts, yet it was totally inconceivable to many of the people higher on the route that someone would try and ski off the summit. Anyway, I topped out, took pictures, enjoyed the view for a few minutes, then I clicked in, cranked up on the Dynafits and skated over to the pearly gates and dropped in on a rime covered ski-length wide chute and threw a few jump turns down it before letting it run on the lower section out on the to upper snowfields where I had to take a break to catch my breath. I had a short conversation with a 20 something guy who was guiding is 65 year old father up his first real mountain then headed skiers right to the steepest pitch on the south side of the mountain and laid some awesome turns down on steep corn. Aside from the powder day, they were the best turns of the entire trip. I met up with Kyle down where I’d left him and we skied the remaining 3000 feet of corn back to the car and headed out. On the way we brought our dirty selves to a great little greasy spoon place and gorged ourselves on greasy burgers once again.
– Kyle feeling the burn on the early morning frozen corn.
– weird snow
– bachelor to the south and a contrail casting a shadow
– hogsback denizens
– all that’s left
– I thought that TUX had prepared me well for witnessing sketchy beheivor until I saw this. Still can’t figure out exactly what was going on.
– looking back over the hogsback down onto the ant farm
– almost there, my knees were hurting pretty damn bad at this point.
- The view from the top wasn’t too bad though.
– next time I’m coming up the north side, it looks a lot more interesting and way less of a **** show.
– checking out the way down
– my tracks lower down (upper right)
– your author
06-25-2008, 12:59 PM #8
X - Alpental
After battling rush-hour traffic for longer than we should have, Kyle and I met up with Steve again in downtown Seattle. Steve was polite and didn’t comment on my smell but did kindly offer me a shower when we got to his place. He also put my gear outside. I was wiped out and sore, but we made plans to do a short tour up at Alpental the next day and check out the valley then head out to the east side to attempt a ski-tour rock climbing multi sport day. Alpental looks like an awesome mountain, I wish I could have been there in the winter when the lifts were spinning. While I was up the Alpental valley I spotted a short but fun looking chute and went to go ski it.
– chuting on the day before the solstice
– looking back on the best rest day of the trip
XI – Attempted multi-sporting
Steve and I crashed in his camper that night after eating a very hearty meal of heart-attack mac and cheese. We met another TAY’er in the parking lot that night and invited him on the tour the next day. The tour turned out well but we didn’t get to climb due to a persistint wind and some clouds from the onshore flow. The skiing however was top notch and for day 129 I certainly wasn’t one to complain about skiing on the summer equinox. So now we can all say that the days are getting shorter and Winter is on the way!
– pretty nice sunset from the east side
– the camper and Steve, and Shawn getting ready.
– apparently it’s called the dry side for a reason.
– apparently this is the biggest hunk of granite in the world
– Steve heading out before the rain heads in
– Shawn doing likewise
06-25-2008, 01:05 PM #9
not a bad way to spend part of your summer break. some of those shots are amazing.
06-25-2008, 01:05 PM #10
holy fuck sam
kick ass spring skiing TR
hoping to win a DPS photo contest too?
ill be in btown july 4th weekend. Alcholalism needs to ensue
damn you roon, you beat me to first response
Last edited by skiingsamurai; 06-25-2008 at 01:08 PM.Live
06-25-2008, 01:08 PM #11Registered User
- Join Date
- Jul 2006
- Ottawa, ON
So good, I had to say it here too.
06-25-2008, 01:24 PM #12Registered User
- Join Date
- Oct 2006
Wow that is pretty awesome. Especially adams, that is a hell of a slog without the road open.
I took almost the exact same picture a few weeks ago!
And your pic/comment of the morons on hood is hilarius. The scariest part of climbing hood is the amount of climber JONGs that rope up for that when they are incapable of arresting eachother's fall. There have been several incidents of rope teams falling and tangling up other rope teams so one person falling brings down 5+ people.
When I did it a few weeks ago there were 3 guys roped together, but with literally about 6 feet of rope between them. What the hell!!
06-25-2008, 01:37 PM #13
hmm, i went back through and the exposures on the photos must have gotten messed up in compression for some reason. they're a lot darker than they're supposed to be, especially the hood ones.
06-25-2008, 01:40 PM #14I call bullshit
- Join Date
- Dec 2006
- Bay area, cali
wow. Thanks for sharing.
thats funny on the hood comments. As stated, all the accidents you read about is one person falling, taking out the guys they roped with and that team taking out another team.
06-25-2008, 01:55 PM #15
Anita, Shawn, Brian and I were happy to have spent some time with you during your visit to the PNW. Great TR and pics. You're welcome back anytime, Sam!
06-25-2008, 02:00 PM #16
BTW, yes, that is South Early Winter Spire. We'll climb on your next visit.
EDIT: The pic from the hwy (thru James' windshield) is of the Liberty Bell/Early Winter Spires massif. LB is on the right, just behind the foreground trees. South and North Early Winter Spires are the big boys in the right center of the pic.
Last edited by Big Steve; 06-25-2008 at 02:05 PM.
06-25-2008, 02:00 PM #17King of the Tilt
- Join Date
- May 2007
- Sandy, Utah
NICE SPRING STOKE!!!!!!
Way to go Sam...http://www.firsttracksonline.com
I wish i could be like SkiFishBum
06-25-2008, 02:56 PM #18
Props to the "Sturtevants" boot dept. they kick ass.
Nice TR, you did some work!Is it winter yet?
06-25-2008, 03:13 PM #19
06-25-2008, 03:41 PM #20
06-25-2008, 04:29 PM #21
06-25-2008, 04:51 PM #22Registered User
- Join Date
- Feb 2005
- North Vancouver/Whistler
getting it done. That was worth a read
06-25-2008, 05:42 PM #23
Nice work. That is a hell of a lot of skinning. Looks like the south side of Adams is in pretty good shape. The USFS site makes it seem like the normal route is really bad now. From your pics it looks fine, not many avi crowns or cornices.
06-25-2008, 07:02 PM #24
Very nice TR Sam. Im glad you enjoyed your stay in our little corner of the country and yet another reminder of just how lucky we are to live here. Really worth the read and a perfect example, IMO, of what TGR is all about: total strangers meeting, sharing and showing off neat places to one another all in hopes of getting in a few more turns enjoying what we all love to do.
Thank you!You've got to have the courage to say to your wife, "Get in there and make me some bean dip."
06-25-2008, 07:47 PM #25
That was either Tower or Golden Horn. They're pretty similar, so it's hard to tell without the other one in the photo, as Tower is closer to HWY 20.
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