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  1. #1
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    Stripped screw hole - JB Weld question?

    so i'm remounting one of my skis, and one of the rear binding holes is stripped. the screw just keeps spinning. i did some searching around here, and it appears that j-b weld is the way to go. just unsure as to which is the better method?

    1) do i fill the whole, let it cure, and then remount

    OR

    2) do i fill the whole, remount while its wet, and then let it cure with the screw set in place

    which is the more secure method of ensuring i dont pull the binding? and should i use the fiberglass shavings with jb weld?

    thanks.

  2. #2
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    I used 2 part 12 hr epoxy with cut up "1/2") strands of fibreglass cloth ,don't know if you can use JB like that ...I thot it was a 2part putty like consistency?

    I think I used the wrong drill bit for a wood ski ,so I packed the holes with 2 part & glass ,ran the screws in ,let it cure over nite ,unscrewed to see if the screws would come out from epoxy , let it cure some more ,cranked em down ... been good for 4 or 5 years on a 4 hole tele mount

  3. #3
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    I've used both JB and epoxy with good results...

    Take some steel wool and mix some in with the epoxy/JB and stick it in the hole. I've done both methods (sticking screw back in while wet and re-drilling after cured) and prefer just sticking the screw back in while wet. I've got a pair BRO's that one of the heel screws stripped out of and I did the above and it's still tight after a whole season.

    If it's just one hole you'll probably be good to go...If more than that, consider helicoils.

  4. #4
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    so what are the preferred methods:

    1) mounting while the epoxy is still wet or mounting after it has cured

    2) mixing the steel wool shavings in with the epoxy and then filling the hole, or stuffing it in the hole first, and then, filling in the hole with the epoxy?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by njfreeskier View Post
    so what are the preferred methods:

    1) mounting while the epoxy is still wet or mounting after it has cured

    2) mixing the steel wool shavings in with the epoxy and then filling the hole, or stuffing it in the hole first, and then, filling in the hole with the epoxy?
    definitely mix the shavings in with the epoxy BEFORE filling the holes - you can use all kinds of fillings, if you have a specialty store nearby you can use either so called "Flox" which is cotton particles or you can use "microballons" which is a powder made of tiny glass spheres, both great for fillings like that and used in the aerospace industry so very tough

  6. #6
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    ^^Yes. If you stuff the wool in there first the epoxy doesn't fill in the stripped lines as well and there's more of a chance of a pull out. Mix it in and then put the whole mixture into the hole
    Quote Originally Posted by other grskier View Post
    well, in the three years i've been skiing i bet i can ski most anything those 'pro's' i listed can, probably

  7. #7
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    Helicoil. Game over.

  8. #8
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    but is it better to mount while the epoxy is still wet, or let it cure completely and then mount? which is more secure?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by njfreeskier View Post
    but is it better to mount while the epoxy is still wet, or let it cure completely and then mount? which is more secure?
    With the way you're generalizing different types of epoxies, you might as well lump Elmers glue and concrete in the same category. After curing, some epoxies can be drilled and tapped like a block of aluminum. Other types will twist and peel if you tried to do the same. Most epoxies though, aren't machinable.

    If you really want it to hold. Use a Helicoil.
    Last edited by Voltron; 04-02-2008 at 11:34 PM.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Voltron View Post
    With the way you're generalizing different types of epoxies, you might as well lump Elmers glue and concrete in the same category.
    i believe the title said jb-weld....

  11. #11
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    heli-coil

  12. #12
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    I would use a two part epoxy that is more viscuous like PC7 or Hardmans. Mix in the glass or steel wool while you are mixing it together. Put it in the hole. Screw your binding in. Let it cure at room temp. Go back to check you screws. If it still spins, heli-coil. If not, you are set.

    There are some epoxies you can let cure and then go back and drill. I haven't tried this because at that point, you might as well put a heli-coil in.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Voltron View Post
    With the way you're generalizing different types of epoxies, you might as well lump Elmers glue and concrete in the same category. After curing, some epoxies can be drilled and tapped like a block of aluminum. Other types will twist and peel if you tried to do the same. Most epoxies though, aren't machinable.

    If you really want it to hold. Use a Helicoil.
    2 part slow set ,12hr is good 24 is better,I would never use anything faster except for emergency

    helicoil I didnt have ,I would have to take the ski in ,get charged by the hole and they would probably put it in the wrong place anyway

    It was late I was drunk ... the epoxy was sittn there

  14. #14
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    I have a 2 beer limit prior to working w/ epoxy or JBWeld.
    This is based on past experiences

  15. #15
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    Old thread, but I'm posting this here to keep relevant info together...

    I mounted up my Thugs today with FKS, was thinking of epoxying the screws in the first place for possibly (possibly, I know it's debatable) extra retention but just went with wood glue in the end. One of the front screws on each heel isn't quite biting so I'm going to fix them tomorrow with some fiberglass/epoxy mix as described here and elsewhere. And I figure I might as well throw some epoxy in the other "good" holes while I'm at it this time.

    One thing that isn't clear that was asked here is the tightening procedure:

    Crank them all down right away?
    Screw them in snug, let partially set then crank them?
    Screw them in snug, let set completely, then try to crank them further?

    Will the fiberglass/epoxy hole be able to be cranksed down right away or will it spin while the glue is wet anyway?

    I only have 5 minute epoxy at home right now, any reason I should go out and buy 12 or 24 hour? I guess that would give me a much bigger window for any partially-set retightening.

    Yes I would helicoil but don't have access to a wide FKS jig and wouldn't trust myself freehanding with a helicoil bit. That's always a worst case scenario attempt down the line if this doesn't work out.

  16. #16
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    I had this happen to the oil drain hole in my dirt bike a long time ago. Neighbor was a mechanic and he used JB weld and let the screw sit in there while it set.

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