Part I
Part III
I had heard that Gulmarg is great when the gondola is open, but that there is not much to do when the gondola isn’t running. Lies, falsehoods, blasphemy. As long as your willing to get off your ass you can ski all day every day. Amazing tree runs, psychotic Sumo rides, everything is possible.
Because of the wars between India and Pakistan, it was impossible to get a topographic map of the area, making it an area where it is pure guess and check as to steepness, hidden ridges and gullies, and where you will end up. Many of the runs you can do during storm days are down to lower roads where a Sumo will pick you up for another lap.
Sumo = POS 2-wheel drive SUV. Bald tires, crazy drivers, all of whom insist on using only one chain…
Turning around
While runs down to Barbarishi Shrine and Tangmarg are fun, for a truly unique experience make a run down to Drang.
Big tree?
Tons of mini hits coming down to the village
To say there is fun stuff around is an understatement
Eventually, you come to a river, with a sick log crossing
After a short 15 minute bootpack/skin you end up at this sign
And then you enter Drang village. You can skate/glide the entire way through the village, looking at people that still survive on subsistence agriculture for the most part. The first time through, I was forced to wait for cows/goats to cross before I could continue on…
An average house
All the kids in the town engulf you when they find out there are skiers coming through. And they always know…because of ‘back siking” They jump on the back of your skis, hold onto your backpack, and yell at you to go.
Some pictures of the local kids
To get back to Tangmarg where you can get a Sumo to Gulmarg, you have to cross one more bridge. When you take off your skis the local kids quickly grab them and use them as sleds or even attempt to ski.
Sometimes if it has been snowing hard(which it normally does) the bridge is covered in snow and you can ski across it. This is one of my favorite photos from the entire trip.
Close up of snow covered mosque
After that it is a short walk/ski back to Tangmarg, where you can hop into a Sumo and do it all over again!
If you don’t want to go down to other towns or the snow is just too heavy lower down you can do quick laps on Monkey Hill(right behind my hotel). Monkey hill is short(~600ft vert) but steep and filled with tons of fun stuff.
Tune in again next week for the conclusion of our tale, what to do when the snow stops falling and the sky is blue. Here’s a teaser…
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