Thread: DH bike gearing, plus brake Q

So I came by a nice deal on Shimano parts recently. Thinking of picking up some '08 XT brakes. Any thoughts on those for DH?

Also - I actually have never owned a dedicated DH bike before...always had 2 rings. What do yall run for gearing on your DH bikes? I'm confused - some people run roadie cassettes with a 36t chainring...that sounds kinda cool. Any suggestions?

Those new XTs are bonerific. I know the past versions were up to the task, so there's no reason the new ones shouldn't be.

I was insanely close to getting a set off Ebay last season, but came to my senses. If the right deal comes around, I'll definitely score a set this season.

After skiing all weekend, you are bike shopping already?

Originally Posted by Professor

After skiing all weekend, you are bike shopping already?

Yes. It was warm and sunny and felt like April and I drank a tall boy on the tram plaza. Which equals bike season in my subconscious

Originally Posted by Particle

I drank a tall boy on the tram plaza.

What! You didnt call

Those new xts are suposed to be good. At least as good as the old ones.


I run a 38/11-34 on my dh bike with the the 34 locked out.

Originally Posted by kidwoo

Those new xts are suposed to be good. At least as good as the old ones.


I run a 38/11-34 on my dh bike with the the 34 locked out.

Its like kidwoo is in my brain.

I've ridden a few bikes with those new XTs and as Bags puts it, they are, how you say, bonerific. I am considering them for the DH rig myself.

You could also get away with a 36t ring if you wanted slightly more climbability.
I'm considering a roadie cassette this season, mainly because an Ultegra is a bit lighter.

Originally Posted by flowtron

Its like kidwoo is in my brain.

kill kill kill

36 up front connected to a 170 crank (sometimes 165)
11-32 or 11-34 with setlimit screw douching the climb gear (32 or 34).

Originally Posted by trainnvain

36 up front connected to a 170 crank (sometimes 165)
11-32 or 11-34 with setlimit screw douching the climb gear (32 or 34).

I's ignorant.

Why do you guys block the granny cog? Does it dump the chain onto the spokes too much?

Originally Posted by davep

I's ignorant.

Why do you guys block the granny cog? Does it dump the chain onto the spokes too much?

Beats up my chainguide at that angle, plus I just don't use it.

38T /11-34 road cassette with the 34 locked out, 170 Saints. I used to run a 42 or 44 on the old bike and going to the 38 feels WAY faster. You can power out of corners better and panic strokes spin much faster.

I played with the new XT's at Go-Ride today, felt and looked nice. If they improved on the old ones, how can you go wrong? (meaning, I REALLY liked my old ones on the DH9)


Anyone need a set of Hayes Mag's, one year old, fairly new rotors, great shape, front /rear 8" rotors, $150 for everything?

I roll with a 36 tooth sprocket and a 12-25 road cassette. Works bueno. Pretty much a dedicated race rig, though. No serious climbing on that bad boy.

Thanks for all the thoughts. XT brakes are a go.

I'd never heard of locking out the big cog with the limit screws...good to know. Due to availability I think I'll be rolling with the 11-32 mountain cassette and either 36 or 38t front ring. Probably 38 so I can be sure I have enough legs.

Is a 165mm crank arm too short? Apparently its either 165 or 175...no 170mm available.

Originally Posted by Particle

Thanks for all the thoughts. XT brakes are a go.

I'd never heard of locking out the big cog with the limit screws...good to know. Due to availability I think I'll be rolling with the 11-32 mountain cassette and either 36 or 38t front ring. Probably 38 so I can be sure I have enough legs.

Is a 165mm crank arm too short? Apparently its either 165 or 175...no 170mm available.

What kind of bike? That can influence the crank length (BB hieght).
165s are funky to get used to but more clearance.
175s are more realistic for shuttle and freeride stuff with all of the short ups, better ratchet feel and all.
175s do bash into shit more if you have have a lower BB or deep sag setting.

Originally Posted by trainnvain

What kind of bike? That can influence the crank length (BB hieght).
165s are funky to get used to but more clearance.
175s are more realistic for shuttle and freeride stuff with all of the short ups, better ratchet feel and all.
175s do bash into shit more if you have have a lower BB or deep sag setting.

Let's call it the Demo 7...low BB. Pretty sure I have 175's on it now and while I do smack them occasionally, I'm used to it and develop a feel for when to not throw down a pedal. So if 165's are wierd I might just stick with the 175's.

I have some '06 170mm Holzfellers w external BB I am planning to unload as I will be running 175mm Saints on my SX Trail this summer. If you are interested I can get some pics up (standard shoe rub on arms, but still in great shape).

Oh yeah, I have been running Saint calipers w XT levers for the last couple years and love them. Easier to bleed and modulate better than any brakes I have ridden (9s, El Caminos, Juicy 7s).

Originally Posted by Particle

Let's call it the Demo 7...low BB. Pretty sure I have 175's on it now and while I do smack them occasionally, I'm used to it and develop a feel for when to not throw down a pedal. So if 165's are wierd I might just stick with the 175's.

I run 165s on my Demo 8. They felt weird for 10 minutes. They work very well.

Originally Posted by brettf

I run 165s on my Demo 8. They felt weird for 10 minutes. They work very well.

right on, thanks b. stoked for new parts!

Originally Posted by brettf

They felt weird for 10 minutes.

Heh

Pretty much true for any length crank that differs from the last bike you rode.



P: I've got 170s on my demo 8 (full dh setup) and 175s on my demo 7 (hella freeride steez).

The reason I've got the 175s on the 7 is because I climb on it. A little extra leverage in moving a 40lb bike uphill can be a good thing.

I've also done a bit of climbing on my demo 8 and still got to where I was going without thinking about my cranks too much.......so take all that with for what it's worth.

Having owned a bunch of specialized bikes with low BBs, my pedaling is pretty well trained to not smack things. If it's rough enough to contact, you're going to go faster with body english than drivetrain input usually anyway. Unless you're climbing......in which case the ratchet technique comes in handy.

Something I've noticed on my hardtails is that 175s bend a little easier

Right on K. I was thinking the same thing for climbing the D7. Do you have a chainguide on yours? Need to get me one of them too...I have a DRS w/ ISCG-05 backplate that no play nice w/ regular ISCG on the Demo.

Yeah I've got a regular DRS (22/36) on mine.