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  1. #26
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    Mar 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by pechelman View Post
    a slap on the back for anyone who can tell me who invented it and for what purpose
    no cheating!
    Saw something on the tele about it - was invented by the folks at NASA. Not sure of the exact purpose.

  2. #27
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    Oct 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by pechelman View Post
    im just here to post that im glad you guys know what the WD in WD40 stands for

    a slap on the back for anyone who can tell me who invented it and for what purpose
    no cheating!
    I seem to recall it had something to with the Atlas missile project in the early 1950's. No idea who invented it though....

  3. #28
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    Mar 2006
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    SLC
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    2,578
    Water Displacer...

  4. #29
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    1

    Problem is not lube or locks.

    I think that the problem is not with the locks. Here is what I just sent Thule. They need to design a change or retrofit kit to help us all out.

    I am on my second Thule evolution box. Both (first returned to REI at your urging) have had the same problem: During cold weather the key lock opening device becomes VERY hard to turn and one in a while won't turn at all. The problem goes away as the temperature gets warmer.

    I'm no engineer but my diagnosis is: The delta of coefficient of thermal expansion is too great between the aluminum rods that connect the three lock points and the overall plastic housing. You can see (should you get the box open) the aluminum rods bowing in toward the inside of the box as the box has gotten shorter as the temp has gone down. When you open the box during warm weather the rods are flat against the side of the box.

    It looks like in the design you tried to accommodate this with the slots where the plates are riveted to the plastic box to allow movement. The problem is that the rivets are too tight to allow any movement.

    So, I like the box and don't want to return another but I really can't live with my primary ski toting device being unopenable in cold weather. Do you have a fix? Do you want me to return it?
    I look forward to hearing from you.

    Mark

  5. #30
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    CO
    Posts
    2,720
    I had the exact same problem. Just throw a bunch of lube in the hinge, WD-40 worked just fine for me and you should be all set. If you can get the key turned to lock the box, it means that the rods aren't bent you just have a lubricant-needing hinge
    Quote Originally Posted by other grskier View Post
    well, in the three years i've been skiing i bet i can ski most anything those 'pro's' i listed can, probably

  6. #31
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    Mar 2008
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    CO
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    Quote Originally Posted by pechelman View Post
    im just here to post that im glad you guys know what the WD in WD40 stands for

    a slap on the back for anyone who can tell me who invented it and for what purpose
    no cheating!
    I tried but then I cheated
    Quote Originally Posted by other grskier View Post
    well, in the three years i've been skiing i bet i can ski most anything those 'pro's' i listed can, probably

  7. #32
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    11
    Quote Originally Posted by mmac View Post
    I think that the problem is not with the locks. Here is what I just sent Thule. They need to design a change or retrofit kit to help us all out.

    I am on my second Thule evolution box. Both (first returned to REI at your urging) have had the same problem: During cold weather the key lock opening device becomes VERY hard to turn and one in a while won't turn at all. The problem goes away as the temperature gets warmer.

    I'm no engineer but my diagnosis is: The delta of coefficient of thermal expansion is too great between the aluminum rods that connect the three lock points and the overall plastic housing. You can see (should you get the box open) the aluminum rods bowing in toward the inside of the box as the box has gotten shorter as the temp has gone down. When you open the box during warm weather the rods are flat against the side of the box.

    It looks like in the design you tried to accommodate this with the slots where the plates are riveted to the plastic box to allow movement. The problem is that the rivets are too tight to allow any movement.

    So, I like the box and don't want to return another but I really can't live with my primary ski toting device being unopenable in cold weather. Do you have a fix? Do you want me to return it?
    I look forward to hearing from you.

    Mark
    I work for a store that carries Thule and you've got it right.

    We had this problem all the time on the Evolution series of boxes, especially in cold weather. The problem is almost always with the bars bending, not the locks themselves.

    Thule's solution to this problem was to warranty the boxes most of the time (all North American Thule boxes come with a lifetime warranty if they were purchased in the past few years). We also fixed a few with replacement aluminum bars and new rivets.

    At least in Canada, this issue is very well known at Thule and they don't hesitate to fix the problem if you have your receipt and you take it to a licensed dealer.

    I haven't seen any Atlantis, Ascent, or Spirit boxes come back with this problem, it seemed to die with the Evolution line.

    Please don't put WD-40 in your Thule locks. That makes me sad.

  8. #33
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    AR/SLC
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    734
    I broke a key off in my lock the other day, it was frozen, I tried "babying" it, to make sure a I didn't break it off, but sure enough I managed to break off the tip. I got my skis out by using the other side.( mine opens from either side) My question is, how do you change the cylinder out when the key is broke off in it ? I thought I could replace the whole lock from the inside, but the way it is designed, I can't get a wrench or pliers on it. Do you have to drill it out, take it to a locksmith, or can the Thule dealer change it out? any advice?
    "... when I turn, I just hope it hits me in the face."--Shroder Baker/Under the Influence

  9. #34
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
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    WD is an acronym for Water Displacing and 40 is the 40th concoction the engineer tried

    actualy if your ignition gets drowned out it will displce the water and your engine will start ,also good for removing label sticky goo , might be a good thing to displace water from a lock but then relube it right away

    My box has about a dozen cracks in it ,pretty easy to repair with good quality stickers ,slow set epoxy/ fibreglass cloth ,pop rivets

    I am betting a good lock smith could fix it for ya ,i took out the lock and had a new key cut back in the day and it was a fiat blank they cut a new one from

    A buddy of mine straps the whole box down to the bars with the lid shut with a thule strap and the worst part of it ,we were a thule dealer... man

  10. #35
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
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    Impossible to knowl--I use an iPhone
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    Shit, I wish mmac would post a follow up. Those boxes are crazy--I just put mine back on, and live in fear of the -10 degree day when I end up at the mountain with every fucking ski and pole inaccessible. I also concluded that it was the bars bowing that makes it impossible to open--solutions? If you have a person at either end pulling on the box (to 'lengthen' it) would that help?

    Actually, I'm not sure that the bars bow because of the box itself shortening--I thought they just started bending when it got cold (and aren't there two bars next to each other?).
    [quote][//quote]

  11. #36
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    Down the valley a bit further on the good side of the 49th
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    4,342
    I was going to suggest remounting it just to make sure there is no torque on the thing. Mind you I have a couple of 2x4s mounted into mine for racks to lay the skis on and keep things in order. They likely also maintain the shape of the lower box better assuring the upper can open and close on top of it properly.
    It's not so much the model year, it's the high mileage or meterage to keep the youth of Canada happy

  12. #37
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Colorado
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    1,857
    Put a hasp on and use a small padlock. Replace the old lock with a handle to operate the bars. Something you can get ahold of and crank on.

  13. #38
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    11
    Quote Originally Posted by ARpowhound View Post
    I broke a key off in my lock the other day, it was frozen, I tried "babying" it, to make sure a I didn't break it off, but sure enough I managed to break off the tip. I got my skis out by using the other side.( mine opens from either side) My question is, how do you change the cylinder out when the key is broke off in it ? I thought I could replace the whole lock from the inside, but the way it is designed, I can't get a wrench or pliers on it. Do you have to drill it out, take it to a locksmith, or can the Thule dealer change it out? any advice?
    What box model do you have?

    If there's any of the key sticking out, pull it out with pliers and hopefully the innards of the lock will all be intact. If there's not enough key sticking out, you can either have a locksmith take the broken piece out ($$$$$) or drill out the entire lock core and replace it (though you risk damaging the lock housing which is a huge bastard to replace). Hopefully you are near a decent dealer who will order you a matching lock core to the one you have on the other side.

    Were you using pliers or something else for leverage when it happened? If it was just your hand you could probably get a dealer to do the work under the Thule warranty if your box qualifies, which would save you buying the replacement lock core if it came down to that.

  14. #39
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    11
    Quote Originally Posted by Dexter Rutecki View Post
    Shit, I wish mmac would post a follow up. Those boxes are crazy--I just put mine back on, and live in fear of the -10 degree day when I end up at the mountain with every fucking ski and pole inaccessible. I also concluded that it was the bars bowing that makes it impossible to open--solutions? If you have a person at either end pulling on the box (to 'lengthen' it) would that help?

    Actually, I'm not sure that the bars bow because of the box itself shortening--I thought they just started bending when it got cold (and aren't there two bars next to each other?).
    Which box have you got?

    Normally the bar mechanism inside can be replaced (sometimes under warranty depending on your specific case). I don't think there's anything you can do yourself to fix it, aside from letting the box warm up, heh.

  15. #40
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    11
    And for anyone considering getting a Yakima box to avoid this problem, we just had an enormous order of Yakima boxes come in where one latch on either side won't release in cold weather. Love the extra security!

    Thankfully we also got some LoPro's (http://www.yakima.com/racks/cargo/bo...box-lopro.aspx) and they have a new latch system that uses a tubular bar that turns with the handle, along with much better metal latch points. With any luck this will become the new industry standard.

  16. #41
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    Dec 2005
    Location
    Mexitana
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    2,474

    Bent Bars

    I found that after the first time I stored mine on end for a while when I went to put it back on the bars were bent.
    I brought it inside and waited a while before the bars seemed to return to straight.
    That and the whole lube and clean thing.

  17. #42
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    Apr 2002
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    Impossible to knowl--I use an iPhone
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    So, the saga continues...

    I ended up bending the key too much, and had to use a screwdriver to just force it open (I spent a few hours trying other things, but no good--and I had to get it open). Using the screwdriver actually works OK (I'm waiting for someone to think I'm breaking into it when they see me with the big flathead screwdriver on the street) but now the cylinder is detaching from everything and I think I have to do something else.

    I'm considering just drilling a few holes in the overlapping (top and bottom) plastic and using a padlock and bolts (or just a few padlocks). It seems like this could be a fine solution. Yes? No? Anything to be careful of? Would a combination lock be better in terms of not getting jammed up with road grime, salt, etc?

    edit: well, reading this thread I see at least one person has used padlocks, and seems to be happy with it. Anyone else?
    [quote][//quote]

  18. #43
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    Oct 2003
    Location
    Sandy
    Posts
    14,041

    Cool

    Did the same thing except my key full on broke. Skis and board inside. Luckily only one of the locks was actually locked, pulled and pulled at the boards for a while to get em out.

    Then went drastic: paid off car, went to Toyota dealership next day, trade car with box in and got a Tundra.

    My way costs 10s of thousands, be careful.....

  19. #44
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Squamish, B.C.
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    131
    Quote Originally Posted by bluespark View Post
    WD40 is really bad for locks.

    why?
    WD-40 is a degreaser not a lubricant and probably dries out the mechanism over time.

  20. #45
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    The Ice Coast
    Posts
    945
    Same issues with my Evolution box, same visible bending of the alu strips, but only one half of each side, so unclear how relates to cold or rivets. Anyway, I've found that some of this is about putting too much junk inside, so that it presses against the top lid. Far as I can figure out, that flexes the entire top half slightly upward, and thus also makes it slightly narrower. Which seems to produce too much squeeze against the alu strips. So I pay attention to load height, and it seems to help. Good to hear that Thule will replace the locking mechanism.

  21. #46
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    Dec 2014
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    Colorado Front Range
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    4,644
    Quote Originally Posted by mmac View Post
    I think that the problem is not with the locks. Here is what I just sent Thule. They need to design a change or retrofit kit to help us all out.

    I am on my second Thule evolution box. Both (first returned to REI at your urging) have had the same problem: During cold weather the key lock opening device becomes VERY hard to turn and one in a while won't turn at all. The problem goes away as the temperature gets warmer.

    I'm no engineer but my diagnosis is: The delta of coefficient of thermal expansion is too great between the aluminum rods that connect the three lock points and the overall plastic housing. You can see (should you get the box open) the aluminum rods bowing in toward the inside of the box as the box has gotten shorter as the temp has gone down. When you open the box during warm weather the rods are flat against the side of the box.

    It looks like in the design you tried to accommodate this with the slots where the plates are riveted to the plastic box to allow movement. The problem is that the rivets are too tight to allow any movement.

    So, I like the box and don't want to return another but I really can't live with my primary ski toting device being unopenable in cold weather. Do you have a fix? Do you want me to return it?
    I look forward to hearing from you.

    Mark
    The current "Butchered Roof Box" thread (https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/s...of-box-fixable) inspired me to look for an alternative fix to my problem and the closest thing I could find was this thread ...

    I can't remember the exact model of my Thule (now going on 10+ years old), but you're right, Mark, lubing has nothing to do with it, although it's obviously nice preventive maintenance.

    It took a cold day in the parking lot to motivate me to poke around.

    I noticed there are two small, rectangular spring steel clips which can slip out of place. IIRC, they're bronze in color and they locate in the each of the slots where the closure latches (on the aluminum bars) engage.

    I have no clue as to their purpose, and why the problem would surface during the cold. In my case, one of the clips had slipped out of place and was interfering with the closure catch on the end of the aluminum bar. In a fit of frustration (it was a powder day, after all), I popped both of them out and haven't had a problem since.

    Better lucky than smart

    Cheers,
    Thom
    Last edited by galibier_numero_un; 11-16-2015 at 02:37 AM.
    Galibier Design
    crafting technology in service of music

  22. #47
    Join Date
    Feb 2023
    Posts
    1
    I've been festering over this issue for years, this is the only thread I've found that properly diagnoses the issue. Today, when faced with the prospect of replacing the box or attempting a simple repair, I chose the $10 option over the $1000 option.

    First, I agree that it has NOTHING to do with LUBE and everything to do with the expansion/contraction of two different materials (abs plastic and aluminum) and the tension that creates on the aluminum rails and sliding lock mechanism. You'll know that you need to modify the box if your aluminum rails bow in toward the center (even on warm days). Once your done, the aluminum rails should be snug along the side of the box AND THEY SHOULD BE ABLE TO SLIDE BACK AND FORTH as the "delta of the coefficient of thermal expansion" demands.

    Here's what I did:
    1. drill out riveted fasteners on either side of lock mechanism at the front and rear of the box - there are 4 of these fasteners on each side of the box.
    2. elongate holes in aluminum rails. using a small rounded file, make the holes longer. they are originally 10mm wide on my box. I made them about 13mm. Make sure that you enlarge the side closer to the center of the box!
    3. replace fasteners with phillips head M5x12 or 10-24 x 1/2" stainless steel bolts and nylon lock-nuts. to prevent galvanic corrosion, wrap threads with teflon tape and use a plastic washer between nut and aluminum. tighten so that its snug but no so tight that the rails can't move when the temps change and the materials expand/contract.

    while I was in there, I disassembled the black plastic lock mechanism by removing the 2 phillips head screws that hold it to the rail. I cleaned the old lube and dust out then polished it with steel wool.

    an added advantage of using removable fasteners is that you can easily disassemble them for future maintenance...

    Last edited by kind of; 02-25-2023 at 09:20 AM.

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