Thread: JONG mounting mistake--how to recover

At the risk of countless JONG callouts, I have decided to repost a more specific mount question here. For the record, this is my first mount, and I'm mounting vists to AK enemys, so no metal in the topsheet. So far, drilled the holes for my toepieces with a 3.6, I "sorta" tapped with a binding screw and slow speed on my drill (guessing this is where the problem happened), and hand tightened. Everything looks great but I got about a mm of topsheet pull up that is causing a sliver of light to come through when the toepieces are screwed down. Recovery options anyone? I'm guessing a proper tap is in order--can I get a #12 in any hardware store, and if so, can I retap?

How deep did you drill the holes? Are you sure you drilled 9mm? or 9.5mm depending on the binding? If that's the case and hole is simply too shallow, the start of a stripping could show up as a slight topsheet lifting. I'd say you could very carefully just drill the holes a hair deeper, then just re-self-tap with the same screw and it should close the gap. This is why using actual Wintersteiger-style ski drills is so much easier and safer.

Never drive screws with a drill motor, always by hand. The potential for stripping or getting a misaligned self-tap is not worth it.

they are a hair over 9mm--I actually already drilled, screwed, (hand tightened), backed out, and drilled a HAIR further. The front screws on the toepiece are $$, but the back screws on both toes have a bit of dimpling. Just out of curiosity why would you go 9.5 depeding on the ski? Wouldn't it be dependent on how much the screw comes out of the binding? I measured there and it came out to 9mm, so that was my plan. I do have AK enemys and im mounting at +2 so I should be able to go .5mm further without a problem.

Originally Posted by RagDoll

Just out of curiosity why would you go 9.5 depeding on the ski?

Sorry, I meant binding. The Dukes, for instance, specify 9.5mm on their template, although I too measured the screw extension beyond the bottom of the binding and it was like 8.95mm. If the topsheet is being pulled up just a little, I wouldn't worry about it as long as the screws are sunk all the way. There is the possibility that the screw will have some increased lateral lever action from that, but it's probably insignificant.

they do seem solid, just that little bit of light that's bugging me. Also noticed that to get the screws all the way down, I have to use a bit more force than I'm comfortable with right at the end--Seems like when they're all the way in they may be too tight?

usually when you use a screw (rather than a tap) you get some topsheet puckering ('volcano'). no biggie. remove the binding, get a utility blade (like the kind in a stanley knife) and use it to horizontally trim off the volcanoes.

remount, and you should no longer seen any daylight.

What frorider said. I use a chisel.

Running a screw in is not the same as "sort of tapping" a hole. A tap cuts.

Originally Posted by snoboy

Running a screw in is not the same as "sort of tapping" a hole. A tap cuts.

...which i think everyone here, including the poster hisself, already knows.

but for a non-metal ski the screw method can work just fine (if you don't mind trimming the volcano).

Your problem may be that you just need to countersink the hole slightly. If you do not have a countersing tool, then use a larger drill bit. Not much is needed, but this should allow the screw to pull the binding down.

actually a big relief to hear people say this--I did use a utility blade to trim a bit, and was considering a slight countersink. I will probably do both. I just wanted to make sure there wasn't anything critically wrong with the holes.

I've been told that if there's no metal you should never tap a hole, but then I've also heard that a 'slight tap'...about one half-one full rotation of the tap is good...from different techs...what's right?

Originally Posted by arem86

I've been told that if there's no metal you should never tap a hole, but then I've also heard that a 'slight tap'...about one half-one full rotation of the tap is good...from different techs...what's right?

the "slight tap" just helps line up the screw so you can get it started correctly. Self-tapping the screws can lead to an angular mistake if you aren't careful to keep them perpendicular to the ski.

OK, so I officially sliced volcanoes, countersinked slightly, and retried it--still a little light, but only if I hold it up. I physically can't cut any more material away to make it flatter, and I'm thinking that it could just be a slight curve? in the ski or binding. screws are all as flush as can be--I saw no way to make them any better, so I just glued and screwed. I can barely fit a piece of paper in there, so I think she'll hold well enough. These aren't my huge huck skis, more park/small stuff fuckaround skis. I'm hoping this will be adequate.