the turkey bag plastic is designed for use at 350-375 or so so you are good to go with boiling h2o
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Good to know. This post is of special interest to me, because I could potentially be using it to mold Krypton ID's (if I can find the right size), which theoretically are already molded to the Shells and only need interior molding.
I would be especially interested in hearing experiences using the boiling water method with this specific boot (Dalbello Krypton ID)
I may try this, I also think I would double up on the water. Pour boiling h2o in, wait 4 min. pour out and add another pot of h2o for 4 more min. Water can only hold so much heat. I need to go skiing now.
Based on my java drinking experience, not Intuition fitting, I would think the boiling water wouldn't cool off to much in 8 minutes while being lodged in a foam insulated boot sized coffee cup.
The cooling might also be preferable prior to putting your foot into that lining.
Anyone have any comparison on this method vs. using the Intuition blower heater in terms of temp of the liner?
BTW, I chatted with a "boot fitter" in Austin today while checking out the sale at a local shop.
I played stupid (easy for me) and asked about fitting the Intution liners in the Krypton ID's they sell. He advised that they would use the Salomon liner heater (not the Intuition blower sitting right next to it), no toe caps, and have me lunge forward on alternating legs every minute for 15 minutes while they cooled on my feet.
DIY is starting to look more appealing. I would like to have the liners molded prior to my next trip in a few weeks. Maybe I can find someone a bit more knowledgeable at the shop, but his responses were a bit alarming to me based on what I've read on here and other forums.
How much do feel was sacrificed in the molding process with the boiling method?
Do you think it would be possible (for instance using "new" water or for a longer time) to achieve the same result? Does the stack blower method equal the heat of the oven?
And just to be clear, I'm referring to the Turkey Bag/Boiling Water method, not the "zipfit" steaming the shell method. The two combined might yield good results, but could be a nightmare logistically.
I have only molded one pair of liners, so my opinion may be more opinion that fact. My older AT boots have been molded in-shop. All I can say is that I will probably try the rice method or use the oven before I use the hot water method. If others have more experience, consider doing what they say
Thanks. I may just hit the local shop and see if they will do it the TGR approved way (i.e. stack blower, toe caps, 2x4 under toes, etc)
The stack blower method is really intended to mold the inside of liners that have already had their outside formed to the inside of the shells (i.e. Dalbello ID liners in their shells).
If you're introducing the liner to a new shell then I can't see the blower stack method achieving the fully formed mold (both inside and out) that the oven gets done. Eventually the liner will pack out and fill the shell mostly, but expect that if you go this route the fit will change a bit more over time than if you go with a higher heat method.
Dalbello ID's are the use case for me, which is why the boiling water method is intriguing.
Slightly off topic but anyone use the boiling water technique for Hockey skates yet. Getting ready to give it a try.
how bout just report resultz gretzky
goal or miss? u tell us
bobby
Worked awesome. Look out mens league.
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Worked very well.
I have had them molded in the shop and done it in the oven numerous times.
This doesn't really mold the outside but a little, at least on stock liners, too well but the inside very well.
The water cools very little after about 8 min.
My feet were hot.
These are the stock liners which never really molded during the season very well.
I never really wanted to build the boot spreader thing. Ive always molded big tongued boots before so easy in and out.
Perhaps with actual big foam intuitions the outside would mold more, the shell was warm so it was getting in there and the liner was all poofy like after the oven.
Definitely legit, thanks.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8147/7...e4b544900a.jpg
Bump old thread - does this hot water method work on Zipfit liners? I bought a used pair and need to remold them. Don't know yet if I need to add any more cork filler, but thought I'd try simply remolding first. I read Zipfit's instructions on home molding using the microwave, but was thinking hot water might be easier.
...or substitute water with rice.
When in had to remold my liner in one of my touring boots due to a wrinkle, I used the a bag of rice in boot and a heat gun on the outside after the rice was in there for about 6 minutes. Worked great.
Haven't tried the hot water method, but I too scored some used zipfits a few months ago and I just threw them and my shells on top of a heat vent in my house for 30ish mins, transferred them my truck next to the floor board heater for the 20 min drive to the hill, skied them for a few hours, and they molded up nicely. May want to give that a shot first? Side note - zipfits ski so fucking well, you'll love them.
For Zipfits, follow the Zipfit molding instructions, super easy, heat the shells in boiling water, dry, slip the liners in, put feet in boots, buckle, stand on 2x4 for ~10 min, bang! you're done.
They will mold from just skiing over time, but this method speeds the natural process.
I decided to just try the microwave method -- really fast and easy, compared with oven-molding Intuitions. Got some wrinkles in the leather around the ankles, so re-did the liners. Still some wrinkles but I'll ski them and see what happens.
I didn't want to heat the boot shells per Zipfit's instructions, because I have some shell punches that I think would be affected.
I can't put my foot into the liner while the liner is in the shell -- just too tight. I can put my foot into the liner, tighten the laces, and then slip the foot + liner into the shell. Is this normal for Zipfits? Seems like this is gonna be a PITA in a cold ski area parking lot...
Totally normal. Works great. Same process in reverse to take them off.
I also didn't steam my shells because of a punch and because I read somewhere that kryptons don't like to be steamed, but a little hot air from the car heater has been money.
^^ Thanks!