I got an iPhone back in December. I had a bunch of music on my laptop which was about to shit the bed, so I registered it on there, put all the music from there on it, and didnt touch the computer for 5 months.

I took my old desktop out to Utah with me for the winter so I had some computer, but never bothered trying to manage music with it. Just charging and listening to the library on my phone through the computer.

I got home, downloaded a few songs and went to put them on the phone. It wouldn't let me. I tried selecting "Manually manage music and videos". Check the box, click apply. Got a dialogue box with two options: Erase and Sync (no, I have 1/50th of my music on this computer and it's all from 2008.) or cancel to put me right where I was.

I did a bit of research, and you can only manage music on an iPhone and an iPad from ONE computer. iPods are another story. Solution was to back up the phone to the computer, select manually manage music, erase and sync, then restore. Kind of a pain in the ass, but easy enough. Click, click, click, done.

Where the fuck is my music? Turns out it will only back up your apps, contacts, and photos, but not your music. Great. Well now at least I can pick which songs I want to put on the phone (now I can have almost 100 songs instead of 5000, sweeeeeeeet!). Wait, nope. The box that says "manually manage music and videos" is unchecked. I checked it. It asked if I wanted to cancel or Erase and Sync. WTF? I just did that. Now I lost all my music, playlists, and still am not able to do what I was doing in the first place.

Anyone know about this? Did I fuck up somewhere? (other than not buying an Andriod phone :rolleyes: )

First world problems.

Have any of you experienced boot fitters ever stretched a high quality pair of summer hiking boots?
Anyone in Jackson do this?

I want to water proof some maps I had copied on to regular paper for a seakayak trip

I can buy the real water proofing stuff OR has anybody used thompsons water seal or SFT like that??

I have a 2005 F150 and the clutches in the rear end are toast. I'm done with the factory limited slip system (this is the second time the clutches have gone out) and want to put in a Detroit Eaton Truetrac carrier. Has anyone done this, or at least popped a carrier out and replaced it? I've read through a couple good writeups (not my truck specific), and a few things concern me.

1) Conceptually I understand backlash but will I need a bunch of extra shims or can I use what is in there already.
2) Could my ring gear and other shit be toast as well from the clutches going out? How can I tell? Is it just the interpreting the wear pattern?
3) According to the writeup the carrier doesn't come with bearings, so I have to order a rebuild kit and then go to a shop and have them press them?
4) I've never cracked a rear diff, what am I missing?
5) Is this even worth it? Should I just buckle down and go to a shop? I do most of my own work on my truck, this seems moderately hard, but not too bad, right?

Extra points if you're around SLC, have done this, and want to help me for free beer/pizza/and a ticket to Snowbird (summer skiing at its finest right now). :biggrin:

Hearing some mixed reviews on this but the boot is sort of intriguing to me. 110 flex being stiff enough to drive the big skis, but also wont crush your lower body when landing larger airs. Also, be able to pivot it around rather than drive sometimes might be nice vs. the 130's I normally ski. I have searched and can't find much but would love to hear if someone has some insight. Kind of seems like the right style of boot to ski something like an EHP or Hoji style of ski if it fits, but I have no experience with Nordica since I was a kid. Currently in Atomic Nuke 130's for reference and love them, but over 150 days on them guaranteed, so time to replace most likely.

I am looking at buying some crampons, exclusively for ski mountaineering use. I've been looking around, and it seems that the Camp XLC Nanotech and Camp Tour Nanotech both provide some of the benefits of steel crampons with the weight saving associated with aluminum crampons.

Just wondering if anyone had experience using either of these two crampons, i couldn't find any reviews for the tour nanotech online.

Finally getting our act together for summer vacation and the road trip will include 3-4 days in Yosemite in the last week of June. Have two boys 10 and 13 and would like to do some backcountry camping. Know nothing about the area, looked at the park website and it appears the permits are gone for some of the more popular areas - although it also appears some permits are issued on a daily basis. If anyone has recommendations for the area and where we might want to venture, it would be much appreciated. Thanks

I recently got a posted footbed, along with increased ramp, and decreased forward lean (the middle having to do with nothing other than my inhibited dorsiflexion).

Anyhow, this has kissed goodbye the ease with which I could initiate a turn by simply pronating or rolling the feet. My foot feels locked in place, and the only thing I am able to do to carve the ski is to drive the hell out of the tips. I think this is partly due to the ramp angle, too (imagine trying to do what I described if you were standing on your toes...)


Anyway, is this--in fact--the point of posted footbeds, to prevent pronation? If so, how can they coexist with "modern ski technique" that involves pronating to start a turn?

I guess I'm wondering if it has more to do with the ramp angle or the posting of the footbed?

I am 5'7' and 155 Lbs and have been skiing on 169 Salomon Lords (128/86/114) since moving to BC from the east. I love these all-mountain skis and have improved my skills in most conditions and a variety of terrains (bowls, steeps, groomers and powder) in the past few years. I am comfortable and even aggressive on most in-bounds and some slack country terrain, but often feel like my lords aren't twisty enough for the trees. I'm still learning about ski technology, but know that I am looking for something light, maneuverable and quick-turning. Any ideas about what to look for in a ski and what length makes sense for tree skiing?

Boots- 2013 dalbello krypton (original shell) 26.5, one finger fit

5'10'' 175 lbs, medium to small sized calfs, narrow heel-ankle and last width, very deep instep, and very low profile toes, medium arch height.

Hello, ill begin by saying, for the second year in a row ive had toe bang issues. Enough reading has taught me the proper steps to eliminate boot problems, i downsized per recommendation of a trusted fitter, new custom insoles, and they put a lift under my liner on the bootboard to try put more pressure on my instep.

Despite all these fixes i still have toe bang, and this year its gotten worse even, i now lost both big toe nails.

from what i understand my foot is the perfect candidate for the boot i have, every other boot ive riden have felt far too roomy. Most 2 piece shells ive tried seem to have a pivot point far higher than where my actual ankle flexes, which affects my balance slightly when compared to my kryptons. I really love the way my boots ski and flex but this toe bang is ruining my seasons, and i want to stop it.

My reason for writing this is in hopes somebody else has a solution for my problem, or maybe a link i missed while searching. id love not to have to change boots tho im considering trying out the krypton 2 shell, i put my current liners,and insole in a 26.5 krypton 2 shell and the ankle had far better hold, but the forefoot and toe box felt too roomy, i fear skiing something like that will further compound my problems.

it might help to add my toes only bang when i hit drops over 10 feet into anything but untouched pow, and bad landings in the park. If i just skied groomers all day i doubt id be having this issue, so it seems to stem from agressive skiing.

thanks in advance!

As I've aged, I've been doing more multi-night trips...to ski lines further out, scout for hunting season, see some cool sights with my lady and get away from crowds. Thought I'd throw out a few pieces of gear I've used recently that I'm stoked on. No affiliation with the companies, just stuff that seemed to make carrying all my stuff a little easier and living out of pack comfortable. I don't necessarily like the newest and fanciest stuff...I usually like and keep the stuff I don't notice on trips.

Black Diamond Distance trekking poles-yeah, I know, trekking poles...this guy must be 80 or something. I just picked up a pair on recommendation because I was flying with them and needed something for a narrow section of trail with consequences with a heavy pack. They were awesome! I was much less tired at the end of the day as they really do help balance a heavy pack in rocky terrain. I'm going to experiment with making them dual purpose as shooting sticks for hunting season too.

Deuter Air Contact pack-I had about 50 pounds (I pack a good amount of booze) in 85 temp, 100% humidity. It balanced the weight and my back stayed about as cool as it could given the circumstances.

MSR Microrocket stove-worked as advertised with no issues. This thing is tiny and so simple to use. I'll still keep my Whisperlite for winter and actual cooking but for heating water, this little dude works pretty well.

What other gear and stuff do you guys like for traveling out of a pack?

Hey, so I was really interested in checking out these skis, and couldn't find too many reviews online. Figure there may be others in the same boat...

I used to ski a lot more regularly in the mountains of BC, but now I've turned into a grownup living in Toronto and only get out for a couple trips each year. I still do a fair amount of hike-only runs, enjoy high-exposure steeps, and like to wind my way down tree lines. I'm 6 feet tall, 170lbs.

I managed to score a pair of Demo Nocta's for a trip out to Whitewater and Revelstoke this year. The ski length 188.

Overall impressions - really enjoyed these skis and think they would make a great part of any quiver. Or could serve as an only ski, depending on what mountains you ski...

The rocker is a bit more pronounced on the tip than the tail, which makes it a bit more forgiving when you get caught in the back seat. The tails are also stiffer than other rocker skis I've tried (Bent Chetler, Armada JJ), and made for an easier afternoon when my form suffered from getting tired out after a morning's skiing.

Like all fat rocker skis, the Nocta kills it in pow as expected. But what really impressed me was how well they performed on tracked-out paths to get to and from the lines you really want to ski. They takes a bit more brain power to set the edges on a turn, but once you're locked in they hold tight and pop in and out of turns surprisingly well. And they simply DEVOUR chop like a Baja trophy truck at wide-open-throttle.

Skis have sex appeal - they got a lot of looks and compliments in lift lines (if that's your bag).

A couple cons...the sizing seems a bit strange...they offer a 188 and a 173, whereas I would have preferred something in the middle, as the 188 was definitely a bit much for the trees at Whitewater. In the wide open bowls of Revelstoke it wasn't an issue and instead the extra material was welcome as the day progressed and runs got more tracked out and choppy.

Similar products tried - bent chetlers, armanda jj

Feel free to ask any questions..

I'm wanting to start making work wear jackets for working in very tough conditions. Where can I get a jacket I designed made at or do I have to order material and do it myself? Obviously at square one here but making clothing is about the last thing on earth I'm familiar with. Anyone point me in a direction other than straight to hell??

My Nordica Radict skis look like a sad clown barfed on them by Matt Standal, on Flickr

Review: Nordica Radict '10 -'11

The Nordica Radict is a big-mountain powder tool that handles like a wide, stiff park ski. The ski is heavy and flies like a cruise missile. It thrives on a diet of wide open bowls, medium-spaced trees, cliff drops and backcountry booters. I'd recommend the 185 Radict for anyone seeking a powder-specific ski who also deals with a lot of variable conditions, including tough resort chop and refrozen pow on a consistent basis.

Those who have ridden the Faction 3.Zero will have a preview of what the Radict skis like, since both are similar in dimensions and purpose. I'd also predict the On3p Caylor and Atomic Benchetler would ski similarly due to their dimensions.

DIMENSIONS

Except for different iterations of its insanely weird graphics, the Radict has not changed since Nordica debuted it several years ago. The Radict's dimensions are 157-143-127, with positive camber underfoot and rockered tips and tails. The skis weigh about 6 pounds each and measure 184 cm in a straight-tape pull.

I logged about 14 days on the Radict during the 2013 winter season in Idaho and have had a positive experience. My review is probably skewed toward more variable conditions because I've only skied them in two bigger powder days. Resorts skied include Brundage, Bogus Basin, Tamarack, and Sun Valley.

CHARACTERISTICS

On soft groomers, the Radict can lay down both small and medium-sized carves. Interestingly, the ski's early rise (called a Hammerhead tip by Nordica) helps lengthen its effective edge when laid on its side, or so claims Nordica. I chose to mount the ski on the manufacturer's line, which gives it a very centered mount and allows for a variety of turn shapes in this ski. I've found the best way to do this was to ski in a centered stance and initiating my turns by rolling the balls of my feet. Using this centered stance, I was able to carve railroad tracks on soft groomers, smear and float in powder.

On a completely opposite note, I found that this ski needs to be driven very aggressively from the tips to blast through crud, refreeze, and chop. This is due to the Radict's relative stiffness. Simply put, if you get in the backseat of the Radict when conditions get rough, your tails will run away.

SIDECUT AND TURN SHAPE

While skiing the relatively soft, narrow trails of Tamarack, Idaho I found the Radict can hold an incredible edge if properly skied in softer conditions. While the skis are pretty heavy and can be fatiguing, I had no problem making angled carves on rolling groomers. However, on bulletproof, and steep groomers, I've found the Radict doesn't want to lock into a turn and mostly skids sideways. Keeping them freshly tuned minimized the skid factor.

A NOTE ABOUT TUNING

I'd recommend keeping these skis moderately sharp, at least in the contact zone. You do not have to detune this ski as much as your shop may recommend because the Radict's progressive sidecut is matched to its rocker shape. This is because when you turn the ski on its side, the Radict's rocker is supposed to lengthen the actual sidecut of the ski. This feature lets you get nearly sideways on the slope in your turn, and allowed me to perform some pretty cool hand drags in powder.

CRUD, CHOP, CHUNDER

The Radict destroys day-old crud, frozen chunder, and soft, smaller moguls. I skied the Radict about a week after a major storm at Tamarack, Idaho when it was dumping wet goopy pow. The 2,300 vertical resort also had a fair bit of chunder and refreeze in different sections of the mountain. This ski slaughtered these variable conditions. They simply plow over and through refrozen snow. Skiing super soft moguls at Bogus Basin was a blast. I basically just pointed the skis straight and plowed, making minimal turns and blowing up small moguls that I didn't want to ski around.

POWDER AND STEEPS

The big fun on these skis comes during 10 inches of powder or more. I skied a big day at Brundage Mountain near McCall, Idaho in early April and these skis floated and tracked through the powder impressively. They can smear with ease, but what's cool is that the camber helps them slice and track through wetter, heavier pow.

A note: while its noticeable camber makes the Radict a great ski for resort use, it can lead to some drawbacks in warm and/or dense snow. In these conditions, I found myself wishing for a reverse cambered ski a few times. For example, skiing some soft, 4-inch deep, two-day old pow on a relatively steep, rock strewn slope at Bogus Basin was really fun. However, as the snow got softer with decreased elevation, the ski got a bit "hooky" and wanted to track quite unpredictably. This behavior led me to slow down my turning due to the weight of these skis, and it also made me concerned about keeping my knee caps in place. Interestingly, I've also experienced tip dive with these skis due to the low profile rocker.


Radict Rocker by Matt Standal, on Flickr

TREES

The Radict's wide profile and camber section makes the ski turn and pivot a bit hesitantly in tight trees and/or steep trees. However, running through the medium-spaced trees of the Meadow Bowl and Lakeview Bowl at Brundage during a March pow day was no problem.

SWING WEIGHT AND LANDING

The wide platform of this ski is easy to land in medium and small jumps and drops in soft snow. In hard snow, the rocker isn't an asset. I've landed several small (10') airs in the backseat on this ski and they ride out confidently. As for the ski's flex and pop, the Radict is not extremely lively, and requires a good amount of input to pop. However, the ski's swing weight in the air is very manageable and they land 180s super easy.

BOTTOM LINE:

Where the Radict skis well:
1. Powder, bowls, medium spaced trees
2. Steep powder faces, dust on crust
3. soft groomers, and small soft moguls.

Where it doesn't ski well
1. Steep, tight trees.
2. Steep mashed potatoes
3. Brushy, tight spaces
4. Low angle groomers, warm snow

title says it all. I went to turn on the Takagi tankless water heater in an outbuilding this afternoon, and its leaking from inside. Looks like winter wasnt kind. Fucked up becuase it has made it through the past three winters getting drained, so I must have done something not right last fall. Anyways, is there any repairing the highly sophisticated and seemingly sensitive Japanese marvel? JB Weld for the win?

Guessing its a goner. Figuring that I probably shouldnt replace with the same, given that it didnt quite make it for me. The situation is that I have an unheated outbuilding that is unused through the winter, plumbing gets drained. It gets cold, I am in Colorado and there is no possiblilty to heat it. I then use the small buliding spring-fall, and need a reliable source of propane-based hot water.

What's the rugged and durble way to go here? Cheap too, pretty pissed to have to replace the system and not exactly long on cash at the moment. I have electricity in the building, but limited amount so cant use it to heat the water. Solar is not realistic due to cloudy days when I absolutely need reliable hot water. Propane is the way, but what is the machine I need?

thanks-