chainsaw sharpening

[Rideski]

Should I:

a) use the rat tail file I have that I don't really know the grit or measure of coarseness (how do you measure files?)
b) buy a new file made for chainsaws?
c) take it to a knife/tool sharpening shop ( I think there is one by my house but have not checked pricing)


Small limb/branch cheapy model available at Home Depot ~ 2 seasons old.

Thanks.

[pechelman]

ive always just used the round coarse files with the file guides made for chainsaws
follow the instructions, its pretty easy

[bio-smear]

What Pech said. Also you might think about just getting a new chain. Depends on how much cuttin' you're doing. I know the OEM chains are anti-kickback chains that don't cut nearly as good as "real" chains....but then you might accidentally cut your own head off. [/gruff old man voice]

[YetiMan]

If you're in utah let me know and I'll show you how to do it.

otherwise I'd suggest going to a saw shop and asking them to teach you. It's not a big deal and if you're at all like me you'll really appreciate the economy and the cutting control you get from sharpening your own chain and you'll never want to cut with a dull chain again.

[jfost]

... if you're at all like me you'll really appreciate the "economy" and the "cutting control" you get from "sharpening your own chain" and you'll never want to "cut with a dull chain" again.

this part is funnier with added quotes!

[MT]

Here is some info: http://www.stihllibrary.com/pdf/SharpAdvice110606.pdf

[KoKopeLLi]

Buying a new chain = wasting money, you don't buy a new pair of skis every time the edges get a little dull do you?

Save yourself a lot of time and money, get a knock-off Dremel tool and a handful of stone rotary bits. Take one out of the pack and make sure it fits the chain teeth before you buy, 3/16" I think

They make these tools cordless or I use the one with gator clips and power with the truck battery.

Chainsaw teeth should be sharpened every time you go out

[FreakofSnow]

Buying a new chain = wasting money, you don't buy a new pair of skis every time the edges get a little dull do you?

Save yourself a lot of time and money, get a knock-off Dremel tool and a handful of stone rotary bits. Take one out of the pack and make sure it fits the chain teeth before you buy, 3/16" I think

They make these tools cordless or I use the one with gator clips and power with the truck battery.

Chainsaw teeth should be sharpened every time you go out

I wouldn't recommend this for someone that is sharpening a chain for the first time, you will very likely ruin the chain in a hurry. I can almost guarantee the saw will cut worse and be much VERY dangerous.

Look at the site MT pointed out. Take the proper sized rattail file and take your time.

[easyrdr]

It's nice to always have a backup chain ready just in case. I actually keep two sharpened spare chains for each of my saws. Once you get in cutting mode it sucks to have to stop cause the chains dull. I'm guessing you don't use it much since it's a Home Depot saw, with that said one spare chain would be plenty. So my recommdations are as follows.

1. Buy a new chain
2. Go to local sharpener dude and ask him to show you how to properly sharpen dull chain with file.
3. Cut down forest :D

[YetiMan]

take them rakers down and throw some chunks hoss!!!

[refried]

take them rakers down and throw some chunks hoss!!!

you know how to sharpen a chain :)
bing it to a shop and let them do it, buy a file, guide, and a second chain (nice to have a second sharp chain), and ask them how to touch up the chain to keep it sharp.

[bio-smear]

Buying a new chain = wasting money, you don't buy a new pair of skis every time the edges get a little dull do you?

Stupid analogy. I didn't recommend he buy a new chain to avoid sharpening. I recommended it because the stock chains are poor-cutting pieces of shit.

[Cirquerider]

One more thing...get rid of the safety chains and tip covers that don't let the teeth get a bite on the wood. A pro chain at a real saw shop will actually cut wood.

[Rideski]

Hmmm, interesting stuff, thanks for the tips and link

Thanks for the offer Yeti, I am in Denver fwiw

My neighbor has about 27 Sumac Tree of Heavens that are going to turn from 15 foot saplings to 30 foot, 8 inch diameter trees this year. They're going to go for a Sunday drive and come back to a leveled off weed field as far as the City is concerned.

A back up chain might be a good plan, did not know that aftermarket chains were far superior. This one I have has been abused for a couple Summers, and is probably streched. Might not be a bad plan to get a new one as a bit of insurance to avoid tail whip.

edit- read the stihl link, way more info there than was in the owners manual that came with the saw.

[RobT]

Buying a new chain = wasting money, you don't buy a new pair of skis every time the edges get a little dull do you?

Chainsaw teeth should be sharpened every time you go out

I really don't agree with the first part of that statement. A new loop only costs $8 bucks or so for a 20" saw. The last part I agree with absolutely though, and that is where having multiple loops comes in handy. If you buy a 25' reel of chain for instance you will get 8 loops, and can have a new chain every half day for 4 days, then spend half a day sharpening all 8 on a bench sharpener or in the garage.

I'd guess you don't cut enough for that, but I'd get an additional loop or two (make sure you get the right pitch for your saw). Semi-chisel is my tooth style of choice. Fast cutting and holds up pretty well, works great in softwood and pretty well in hardwood. Pretty easy to sharpen by hand.

Then either get a chisel and guide (the right size. Chain comes in 2 common sizes: 3/16 chisel for .325 pitch, 7/32 for .375 pitch and 7/32 for .404 pitch) and a flat file for the rakers sharpen by hand as needed, or if you're cutting lots buy a reel of chain and pony up for a bench sharpener.

Rob

[Tye 1on]

Hoseheads like yeti don't need the file guide, toss 'em a round and a flat file and quicker than you can finish your PBR, he's done. And it rips.

100's of previous sharpenings before this skill was perfected, he likely accidentally filed one direction's teeth at a just slightly different angle than the other's. Then the saw got good at 'cutting in a circle', actually cutting a curved cut through the wood. Not good. Moral of story....angle is important...

[Core Shot]

Save yourself a lot of time and money, get a knock-off Dremel tool and a handful of stone rotary bits. Take one out of the pack and make sure it fits the chain teeth before you buy, 3/16" I think


I'm sure its ghey to the real woodsmen out there, but I appreciate how quick the dremel attachments are. I know they take off way more material than a hand filing (just like skis) but chains are cheap so buy a new one if you overgrind it.

http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS/EN_US/jsearch/product.jsp?pn=100046148

http://www.homedepot.com/cmc_upload/HDUS/EN_US/asset/images/eplus/165501_3.jpg







Dear Sir,
I wish to complain on the stronglyest possible terms about the previous
entry in this file about the lumberjack who wears womens' clothes. Some of
my best friends are lumberjacks, and only a FEW of them are transvestites.

Yours faithfully,
Brigadier Sir Charles Arthur Strong, Mrs.

P.S. I have never kissed the editor of the radio times.

[rbtree]

Here's another link with a ton of valuable info on chain types and filing instruction.
http://www.oregonchain.com/sawch.htm

You gotten some good, some poor advice from folks.

If you are careful, and watch the bar tip when cutting, you'll keep the chain out of the ground. Chain dulls slowly when only cutting wood, though some hardwoods like hickory are so hard that they dull a chain many times quicker than normal wood. Tree of heaven (ailanthus genus, not sumac), cuts easily in my limited experience with it.

Following the advice in the Stihl and Oregon provided links, it is relatively easy for a newbie to sharpen a chain. Be aware that a dull edge reflects light, so sharpen till the edge reflects no light.

Hand held rotary drill sharpeners work if used properly, but can easily temper the cutter edge if used too agressively, and may take off exess material. I have always hand filed.

Depth guages (improperly called rakers, which is what are on a cross cut saw) should not be taken down beyond .035", or the chain will become too aggressive as it cuts too thick of a chip, and greatly increase kickback chances.

Careful saw use may not mean the chain needs filing every time out. Just inspect each cutter for sharpness. Remember, no reflected light from the edge means it's sharp. For example, if we are cutting douglas fir or big leaf maple, a soft hardwood, our chains will be darned near as sharp at the end of the day as the start if we've hit no dirt, rocks, or foreign material in the wood.

Last, no matter whether your saw is a homeowner saw or a finely tuned machine like a Sthil or Husqvarna, or Dolmar pro saw, or even a modded beast like most all of mine, cutting with a dull chain will make the saw work hard, get hot, and shorten its life.

Homeowner chain has safety features that reduce kickback, but depending on the exact chain, is not dramatically slower than pro chain.

It is good to buy a second chain. A side benefit of having two is that you can use the new chain as a guide for filing the old one. Just examine the cutter surface that you're filing and try to maintain its profile and shape just like the new chain's cutters look. This won't work, of course, if you have bought a different chain type. As one poster mentioned, semi-chisel, though maybe 10% slower than full chisel (square profile) will cut longer before needing sharpening, as it won't dull as badly as full chisel.

http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46293&d=1173105952

Ya'll are welcome to visit us at arboristsite.com, where there's lots of chain saw talk...and homeowner helper forums for tree and saw help.

[Tye 1on]

and notice the chaps on the sawyer. I've seen 'em work.:eek:

[RootSkier]

What the hell is he doing, making dinner plates?

I have nothing to add since almost all my chain saw use has been in a timberframe shop where our goals are far, far, far different than you fucking roughnecks.

[rbtree]

That's me. I'd been letting a friend, who is a chain saw mechanic, run some of my saws, including that saw, a fully woods modified Dolmar 5100S. I had a tuned pipe exhaust made for it, just so I could be the first person ever to run a piped sawwhile working aloft. That little saw is wicked fast. It will beat a stock 044 Stihl, which is two sizes larger. After a few jobs, I took the pipe off, and run it with a dual port muffler.

Good point on the chaps. Proper PPE should be used when running a chain saw.

Right now, I'm headed over to Home depot, where they're selling off some of their rental fleet....I'm looking to pick up a Makita 6401 for $225, which is a purty silver and teal saw. It is on the same frame as my modded Dolmar 7900, but with a smaller motor, so I'll buy a Dolmar 7900 piston/cylinder for $190, then have the saw ported for $250 by my saw builder, and have a $650Makita that will whomp on my $1000 stock 660 Stihl, and weigh 2.5 pounds less. While I like Stihl and Husky and run a bunch of both, it will be cool to show up those Stihl owners who think their saws are the best, with what to them looks like an oddball saw.

[PeachesN'Cream]

saw talk is fuggin RAD!

i know nothing bout chain saws, but fuck do i want to drink some PBR and smell some gas.

[Tye 1on]

That's me. I'd been letting a friend, who is a chain saw mechanic, run some of my saws, including that saw, a fully woods modified Dolmar 5100S. I had a tuned pipe exhaust made for it, just so I could be the first person ever to run a piped sawwhile working aloft. That little saw is wicked fast. It will beat a stock 044 Stihl, which is two sizes larger. After a few jobs, I took the pipe off, and run it with a dual port muffler.

Good point on the chaps. Proper PPE should be used when running a chain saw.

Right now, I'm headed over to Home depot, where they're selling off some of their rental fleet....I'm looking to pick up a Makita 6401 for $225, which is a purty silver and teal saw. It is on the same frame as my modded Dolmar 7900, but with a smaller motor, so I'll buy a Dolmar 7900 piston/cylinder for $190, then have the saw ported for $250 by my saw builder, and have a $650Makita that will whomp on my $1000 stock 660 Stihl, and weigh 2.5 pounds less. While I like Stihl and Husky and run a bunch of both, it will be cool to show up those Stihl owners who think their saws are the best, with what to them looks like an oddball saw.

you'd be a good person to know if one was in to building motors for powered parachutes, not that it has any fuckin relation to sharpening a chain saw.

[MT]

it will be cool to show up those Stihl owners who think their saws are the best, with what to them looks like an oddball saw.

Interesting stance. Perhaps there is a reason Stihl won't sell their saws at places like the Home Depot....

[bio-smear]

Hot saw time! I actually attended the saw comp at the Reno ESPN Great Outdoor Games in 2003.

http://www.antons-timbershow.com/images/disiplin_siden/chainsaw_big.jpg

Actually I think the Stihl Mini Farmboss is an awesome saw. A guy doesn't really need much more unless he's falling 16"+ or he has a small penis.

[Kya]

It's not a big deal and if you're at all like me you'll really appreciate the economy and the cutting control you get from sharpening your own chain and you'll never want to cut with a dull chain again.

Damn straight.

[YetiMan]

Here's another link with a ton of valuable info on chain types and filing instruction.
http://www.oregonchain.com/sawch.htm

You gotten some good, some poor advice from folks.

If you are careful, and watch the bar tip when cutting, you'll keep the chain out of the ground. Chain dulls slowly when only cutting wood, though some hardwoods like hickory are so hard that they dull a chain many times quicker than normal wood. Tree of heaven (ailanthus genus, not sumac), cuts easily in my limited experience with it.

Following the advice in the Stihl and Oregon provided links, it is relatively easy for a newbie to sharpen a chain. Be aware that a dull edge reflects light, so sharpen till the edge reflects no light.

Hand held rotary drill sharpeners work if used properly, but can easily temper the cutter edge if used too agressively, and may take off exess material. I have always hand filed.

Depth guages (improperly called rakers, which is what are on a cross cut saw) should not be taken down beyond .035", or the chain will become too aggressive as it cuts too thick of a chip, and greatly increase kickback chances.

Careful saw use may not mean the chain needs filing every time out. Just inspect each cutter for sharpness. Remember, no reflected light from the edge means it's sharp. For example, if we are cutting douglas fir or big leaf maple, a soft hardwood, our chains will be darned near as sharp at the end of the day as the start if we've hit no dirt, rocks, or foreign material in the wood.

Last, no matter whether your saw is a homeowner saw or a finely tuned machine like a Sthil or Husqvarna, or Dolmar pro saw, or even a modded beast like most all of mine, cutting with a dull chain will make the saw work hard, get hot, and shorten its life.

Homeowner chain has safety features that reduce kickback, but depending on the exact chain, is not dramatically slower than pro chain.

It is good to buy a second chain. A side benefit of having two is that you can use the new chain as a guide for filing the old one. Just examine the cutter surface that you're filing and try to maintain its profile and shape just like the new chain's cutters look. This won't work, of course, if you have bought a different chain type. As one poster mentioned, semi-chisel, though maybe 10% slower than full chisel (square profile) will cut longer before needing sharpening, as it won't dull as badly as full chisel.
.

whatever doug dent! :rolleyes:

































;) :D

[hick]

Doug Dent is just a dork who couldn't hack it cutting by the stick (to much of a safety nazi) so, he was forced to make gay USFS safety vids. So insulting.

[rbtree]

So what's the deal, what's your issue with D Douglas Dent? Are you a hotshot who he failed when you took a certification test, or tried for the next level?

This guy pictured below is class C certified by Dent himself......do not try this at home! He also ran crane ops for a couple local tree services during our big windstorm, and took 58 trees off houses in 8 days. He slept a few hours during that time.

This is a 146 foot fir that we felled through an 11 foot gap.....with big consequences if we messed up...like my insurance rates....

[Rideski]

I've dropped a couple of trees, and I have to say that is pretty damn good aim.

How many pictures did this knock off of the wall? Cracked foundation?

http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=23460&d=1173844385

[RootSkier]

Holy fucking shit. :eek:

[rbtree]

Nope, nary a speck of damage, save for a coupla holes in the lawn from branches poking in.

However, we scored a hemlock removal for a neighbor a month later. When we dropped it ( I can't remember if we flopped it whole or took a big top) a limb penetrated the lawn over 2 feet and skewered a septic drain field 4" plastic tile. We didn't hear about this for a coupla weeks as it took some time for the effluents to drift topside and aromasize the ether...Was less than fun digging her out and doing the repair.

Back to the big fir, which scaled out at about 2300 board feet; when she grounded out, the branches were pulverized. It took two of us a few hours to rake and chip up the mess, which made a good 7 yards of chips. This was after I'd limbed the tree up to 85 feet, to allow the branches to clear the obstructions when we felled it. That part produced another 12 yards of chips.

Here's my favorite saw......0.7 seconds through a 30 inch cottonwood log.....

[rbtree]

Interesting stance. Perhaps there is a reason Stihl won't sell their saws at places like the Home Depot....

Stihl makes good saws. Their latest models, the 361 and 441 are pretty good. But the Dolmar 7900, which i own, is best in class. It is way faster than an 046 Stihl, and is lighter. It beats the 385 Husqvarna, by a tad, which is over a pound heavier. That's what the 6401 Makita will become when I put the bigger jug in it.....I used to own 5 Stihls, till my second 066 was stolen by a (now ex) employee, as well as an 044. I jsut scored a newer 066 on ebay for a good price...hoping it will be a good runnner. Save for a dual port muffler, I leave my 066's stock, as they are one of the best saws ever in stock form. So is the 7900 Dolmar, but modded, it really comes alive.

This baby, prolly the fastest working saw in Wa, is about to get a mate... a stocker that is gonna be the powerhead for a go anywhere stump grinder I'm picking up next week. It's a 3120 Husky, and is prolly putting out about 13 horsepower. The new saw comes with a 4 and 6 foot bar...which will prolly be for decorations...i've used my 5 foot bar maybe 4 times in the 10 years i've had it.

[YetiMan]

So what's the deal, what's your issue with D Douglas Dent? Are you a hotshot who he failed when you took a certification test, or tried for the next level?

nope, just schticking around like the dumbass I am (one of those inside jokes from my crew days that's so ingrained in me that I forget you weren't there and don't get it)....and you're my hero for real. your falling pics are the stuff of my cutting dreams. carry on. :yourock:

back to the saw related sickgnar
FvAI7-Qa2Io
60Tamp2fHhg

[Mountainsurf]

It doesn't matter what you do with a chainsaw as long as you do it with your shirt off...and a PBR nearby. Ohhh. Chainsaws are so fucking sexy I get all hot just thining about them. Uhhh, what was the question? Files or something?

[MT]

putting out about 13 horsepower.

:eek: wah!

[YetiMan]

:eek: wah!

heh, more like

waaahh waawaaawaaaa ringdadingdingding

:D

[Rideski]

Bump
I am in the market for some hearing protection and don't mind paying a little extra if it will benefit me. Are the home depot $10 headphone style ones good enough or can I get something way better for a bit more? Stump grinding is the next chore on the list that i have these in mind for, reportedly that is a pretty loud gig?


edit: so the stump grinding turned out to be pretty quiet after all. No louder than a chainsaw.

[pechelman]

the overear'd ones are all that you should need.
somewhere in the range of 28-35db of isolation.

theyre all about the same in my experience, just pick comfy ones.

eta
after a quick google search, a lot of the ones I remember using for metal working, ie band saw, grinding, chop saw, etc were of the 20-22dB NRR variety and they were plenty. Most of the stuff I use now are those 32dB earplugs which seem to do fine as well. I suppose you could wear both too so you could take off the muffs if\when they get hot but still have protection.