Roadie Questions (Shoes/Shorts)

[Daywalker]

I'm close to purchasing my first road bike (GT GTR) that will be used for triathlon training and racing (culminating in a half ironman in the spring). I currently do a decent amount of mountain biking. I don't care that my mountain bike shorts aren't spandex, I'll use them sometimes on the road bike, but the fact is I only have one 'good' pair (closeout pair of Pearl Izumi low-range baggies) and even they get a bit painful after two hour rides. I'm going to be building up to long rides on the road bike and need some good shorts. Anyone have some suggestions? I'd like to keep the options reasonably priced.
On the shoe front, I need a pair that is stiff, and the simple answer is to go to the LBS and get some to make sure they fit. The issue is that I can get just about any shoe online for significantly less. I'm thinking about getting a pair of Nike shoes since thats what the mountain bike shoes are and they work fine. Is the fit going to be too different between them?

Any advice is appreciated. Also, if anyone has a hookup on shorts/bibs for a 6' 31-32" waist guy or some size 44 road shoes, let me know. I'm putting out more money than I want to for a good bike and trying to save money where I can.

[CantDog]

The best shorts are the ones that feel best. Go try some on. They all fit kinda different, but one place to skimp is not on shorts. Your balls will be crushed onto a hard leather platform for two hours at least, a few days a week. Make it comfortable, even if it means spending some $.

Buy some assos chamois cream. Seriously, its the best thing you can buy if you ride on the road.

Definately get road shoes, and for pedals the new ultegra pedals are the cat's tits. For shoes, again, goes with whatever fits best.

[freshies]

Like everything else, its all about what fits, etc.

Me, I dig Sidi's - for both road and MTB, and I have their Ergo 1 mesh w/a carbon sole for the road. They are works of art for your feet, fit like slippers, and oh yeah, they are pretty good at transfering power from the peadal stroke to the rig. They make cheaper ones too, the Genius, I think.

http://www.sidiusa.com/

Shorts are the same, buy what feels good. I like either the Bergamo or the Castelli bib shorts. Don't be scared of the bib (yeah, I used to laugh at 'em too as a MTB'er, until I really started putting the miles in on the roadie).

[Pedro]

I dont know much about tri gear, but I finally broke down and bought a pair of shorts with the bib, i got a gift certificate from my mom for my birthday, so i ended spending some cash......at first the bib felt wierd, but after riding for a few hours they felt great.

[harpo-the-skier]

I have some Canari bibs that will fit you. Problem is that they are used (used with nothing beneath them). I have no diseases and the bibs have been washed thoroughly. They are the top end Canaris, $180 new, I got them on line for $120 each. They are too small (I have a 34 waist) but I can't return them. I am thinking $100 for both, shipping included. One has been only worn once and is mint; the other has been used about 20 times and has been patched by a seamstress profesionally after a MB fall. Make me an offer if you think $100 is too much.

As for shoes I would buy them at your LBS. Fit is paramount - my Sidi model comes in two widths. Then get a aftermarket foot bed. Or you can order some different models and sizes on the internet, keep the one that fits, and return the rest. It might be a pain, but it is better than finding one that fits at your LBS and then buying online.

[ccwaskier]

http://www.coloradocyclist.com/common/products/displayproductlist_v2.cfm?CI=1,263,800&StartRow=13&CGRFNBR=800&CRPCGNBR=800

They have some nice shorts on sale there. You'll still be spending quite a bit, but as others have said shorts are not a place to save money. As for shoes you can try them on at the store and buy online, although I always feel badly doing that, or spend a little more, get a good fit and support the local shop.

[Squatch]

personally, i like specialized shoes-- their "Body Geometry" fits me really well. Try on a bunch of different brands and see which feel best.

as for shorts, comfort is really important. get some chamois cream, especially as you start out, and get a pair of shorts or bibs that feel comfortable.

something else (and equally important): make sure your seat feels good. i'm not saying to get a fat gel seat, 'cause they won't feel good after a while, but make sure you get a firmish seat that supports your sit bones and doesn't cause numbness. some shops have a liberal return policy with seats and other "comfort/fit" items, try going there.

[ShawnB]

I definitely second everybody's comments on the bib thing. Some waistband-style shorts cut into your torso painfully after an hour or so, but bibs never do, and are as comfy as you can get while engaged in the act of pounding your genitals against metal and leather for hours on end.

Hmm. Sounds like a Li'l Kim video.

Anyway, my other 2 cents--which I don't think others will necessarily agree with, but has worked well for me--can be summed up in one word: eBay. Ebay yourself a bunch of pairs of high-quality bibs, and rotate them often.

I did this because really good bibs are a huge improvement, but are so pricey (from where I stand). And trying to save money by only having one really serious pair is bad--wearing the same shorts over and over can start up fungi in residence on yer bidness, infections, and the like. So, if you're not squeamish about it, you can get multiple pairs of top-notch kit on eBay very cheaply, and keep yourself much healthier and more comfy while saving beaucoup buckage.

I mean, I'm assuming you have herpes already, right? I know I do. Hey, by the way, wanna buy my old shorts?

No, actually I'm serious. Ebay can help you out in this situation, IMO.

[CantDog]

Yeah, the more shorts the better. I tried the ''lets see if i can get three or four rides out of these before washing thing'' and the results werent good. Antibiotics.

And the more shorts you buy, the less they wear out. Constantly washing one or two pairs means they will last a year if you are wearing them 6 days a week.

And dont wear trispecific shorts on normal road rides--less padding.

[gravitylover]

I have Nike Lance II's on sale at the shop for 50% off. That makes them $150 and I have them in a 44 if you're interested.

edit: I actually have all Nike shoes half off.

[sfotex]

I've been really happy with the Voler stuff - good prices, good simple but bomber and comfy shorts,

http://www.velowear.com/index.asp

[Vinman]

if you are going to be racing tri, get used to riding with a minimal pad. Unless you like the feeling of wearing a wet diaper while you ride and run. There are triathlon specific bike/racing shorts out there.

you may want to start out with padded shorts at the begining but as you adjust to sitting on a bike seat for several hours at a time you'll eventually be able to do most of your training rides with the tri shorts minimal padding. Start with sshort rides with the tri shorts and slowly increse your miles.

I actually find that I don't like a thickly padded short anymore. At times it can make me more sore if I am in the aero position for extended periods of time since there is just too much down there to smash my tender bits. One important factor in being comfy with a minimal pad is having a bike that fits right and is set up for aero position riding correctly. If it is done right there really shouldn't be all that much weight on your taint, it should be on your feet and your forearms.

Pearl izumi, sugoi, de soto, and a few others make good tri shorts.

[L7]

I have a pair of size 43 shoes somewhere. They're good shoes but the brand escapes me at the moment. They were a bit too small for me but I where a 11.5 shoe, I'm not sure of your street shoe size.

I don't do tris but like Vinman I have come to realize too much padding is no good in the shorts. Problem is the higher end shorts you buy they more pad they seem to like to put in. Over long rides it's just too much crap to bunch up and rip you apart where you don't like to be ripped apart.

[truth]

I'm really digging my Hiincappie Sportwear Bibs. Boure also makes a nice bib. The saddle is as important as the bib and I'm in love with my Specialized Alias.

[gravitylover]

The saddle is as important as the bib and I'm in love with my Specialized Alias.

Have you tried the Toupe? Simply the finest saddle ever (I think). It's definitely not inexpensive but nothing that makes love to your ass the way this saddle does is :cool:

[harpo-the-skier]

Here are pictures of the bibs I am trying to get rid of: Castelli yPro3's, two of them in size large. One has only been worn once and is mint. The other is well loved and patched once. I can wear them but they are uncomfortable for me with a 34 (jeans) waist. I am thinking $75 for the mint one shipped, and I will through in the well worn one for free. They retail for about $180 each, I think.

Also, I have a Specialized Toupe saddle on my new bike. It is the shit. On long rides by back will spasm, my hands and feet will go numb, my neck will ache, but my important family parts feel fine.

[homerjay]

what do you mean by uncomfortable with 34 waist?

[harpo-the-skier]

I have a 34 waist and the bibs are tight on me. They would be perfect for a 32 inch waist.

[gforce]

Second the vote with the voler bibs. Nice materials and fit me great. Sidi road shoes and look pedals (think large platform) transfer power well and both last a long time. As everyone has said fit is key but these have worked well for me.

[Cornholio]

Since we're all voicing opinions here: I never wear my tri shorts except to race, so I wouldn't buy any extra pairs of these, personally. Vin says he rides most of his rides in tri stuff, but I don't bother-- the only reason to wear it is because the tri pad doesn't hold water, but no one ever does swim/bike bricks so you don't need that pad except for a race.

The only exception to this is if you're doing a brick or T2 practice and like running in tri shorts. Here in Cleveland, I get bricks and shit thrown at me even if I'm *not* wearing the shortest, tightest shorts, so I tend to do a quick change before I run anyway.

[Vinman]

my point really was to say that come race day and you are out on a 56mi bike leg and you haven't gotten used to riding in tri shorts, your day may become very long.

For me it basically comes down to the idea of race like you train. This for me includes not only intensity, but nutrition and gear, I don't show up on race day with a new pair of running shoes and I definitely would not show up to race in shorts that I had never ridden in.

I'm not saying ride only in your tri shorts. I ride probably just less than half my rides in my bike shorts and the other half plus in my tri shorts.

Anyway the less winded version is buy both. And no matter what you buy. You need to train at least some of the time in your tri shorts or you could be asking for trouble in the form of chaffing and such where the sun don't shine on race day.

[homerjay]

I have a 34 waist and the bibs are tight on me. They would be perfect for a 32 inch waist.

I'm closer to a 33-inch waist and have been looking for some top end bibs.

consider me 'interested'

even though used bike shorts kinda creep me out.

[Cornholio]

my point really was to say that come race day and you are out on a 56mi bike leg and you haven't gotten used to riding in tri shorts, your day may become very long.

I'm with you, sorta... I just think that on race day, when your head is down and you're pumping liquid battery acid through your legs-- when you're bleeding lactic acid from your eyeballs-- when you inhale molten lava with every breath for an hour or two; the thickness of the pad is the least of your worries.

I did a half iron last summer in a speedo-cut race uniform. I don't reccomend it for several reasons, but it's possible.

[Vinman]

I did a half iron last summer in a speedo-cut race uniform. I don't reccomend it for several reasons, but it's possible.

Did you wear the man bra too?

[powdog]

I routinely wrap up over 3,000-3,500 miles a year, and I find that Pearl Izumi bib shorts fit me good. I learned early to get chamois butter (such as Assos or various other products), the crucial thing is must have lanolin. Spread it on your shorts and your nether regions. Sometime I use a gel chamois pad - get them at Nashbar.com or Performance... I like 8.5 oz lycra fabric, preferably either 6- or 8-panel shorts/bibs. They hold up longer than the more expensive higher end bibs.

Sidi road shoes are too wide in the forefoot for me, and so are Pearl Izumi road shoes. My preference is Diadora, Shimano, and Specialized - never get white or silver shoes (tires will mark them up). You ought to go to a large local bike shop that has lots of road shoes and pick a reasonable pair (under $150). You don't need a carbon sole - plastic is more durable and just as stiff.

Some shoe companies make triathlon shoes with one strap and a loop at the heel.

[Daywalker]

thanks for all the help guys. I bought a pair of ebay that should be here soon (nalini). I'm also going to try out some desoto stuff (specifically for tris) at a shop reasonably near me.

As for shoes, it's looking like I'm going with Nike's at size 44.5 (tried them on in a Trek store, don't give a poo about screwing the big name store)

[Cornholio]

Did you wear the man bra too?

We didn't have one of those, thank god (for me and for anyone watching.) It was my fastest 1/2 ever, though. I think I was so fast because I couldn't wait to put on some real shorts.

To Daywalker: I'll reiterate what someone else said... Tri-specific shoes (with the heel loop and strap) are probably worth looking at. I'm not sure what Nike's you're checking out, but tri shoes will help take time off your transitions. The heel loop is surprisingly helpful in T1, and the single strap is fast for both the on-getting and the off-taking.

[I don't really reccomend this until you've practiced it a bunch, because you risk losing much more time than you could gain, but if you decide to leave your shoes clipped in for T1, the single strap and heel loop is essential.]

[Daywalker]

Cornholio, Vinman, any other tri-guys:
I am just entering your world (and the world of road riding). Should my first (and only) pair of road shoes be tri-specific? Is there a downside to this?

I'm very close to buying a pair of year old road shoes on the cheap (lightly used Lance II's for $75) so if I should switch to tri-specific let me know.

Last question, sorry that there are so many, ultegra pedals versus Look Keo? I've heard one for Ultegra, I'm coming from spd-type mountain pedals (using them on the roadie now as a bastardized combo), is one going to be better for rides? Ease of getting used to is less important than overall performance/sensibility for what I'm doing. I'm getting the feeling that it's purely a personal preference, but if there is something I should know, fire away. I don't want to be getting a pair of markers....

[Oarhead]

Tri shoes only ahve one or maybe two velcro straps. This makes getting into and out of them fast. A normal road shoe has either three straps or several straps with a ratchet or some other fitting/tightening mechanism that will take longer or be a pain in the ass if you are trying to put them on while travelling on the bike already.

If you are not too worried about the time of your transistion being 5 seconds slower then go for the full road shoes as they wil fit better.

Tri specific shoes are a transition speed thing only.

[CantDog]

Cornholio, Vinman, any other tri-guys:
I am just entering your world (and the world of road riding). Should my first (and only) pair of road shoes be tri-specific? Is there a downside to this?

I'm very close to buying a pair of year old road shoes on the cheap (lightly used Lance II's for $75) so if I should switch to tri-specific let me know.

Last question, sorry that there are so many, ultegra pedals versus Look Keo? I've heard one for Ultegra, I'm coming from spd-type mountain pedals (using them on the roadie now as a bastardized combo), is one going to be better for rides? Ease of getting used to is less important than overall performance/sensibility for what I'm doing. I'm getting the feeling that it's purely a personal preference, but if there is something I should know, fire away. I don't want to be getting a pair of markers....

My roommate uses Keos, and I use Ultegras. We both really like our pedals.

Get regular road shoes and dont worry about the transition times. Make yourself 3 seconds stronger to make up for the loss in the transitions. Anyway, you will be using clip on bars, no aero wheels, no aero helmets, and will be lacking everything else that goes along with fast tri gear, so shoes wont do ya much good. You'll spend more time training in them then racing with them, so buy shoes that are enjoyable 5 days out of the week, instead of those few hours when you race on saturday.

[Cornholio]

IMO, if you can find a pair of tri shoes that fit snugly and comfortably, there's no reason *not* to buy them.

The added adjustability of a good pair of road shoes just makes it much easier to get a good, comfortable fit. The fit is the most important thing, really.

Also, if your races will be on very hilly courses, road shoes (and the tighter fit) are a bigger plus.

Both pedals are really good. The Keo have slightly less float, so if you have knee problems you might lean toward the Shimano. Also, of course, you have to consider what matches your bike the best. :)

[Vinman]

I use my road shoes for tri. There is no reason to not buy the tri shoe. It would work equally well for tri or regular riding. So go with what fits you.

Cornholio has a slightly used euro cut speedo he'll let you have.