1st open face

[DJSapp]

I caught my 1st open face on a waist high wave yesterday off of the Manhattan Beach pier. I was out there, being a kook as usual, and it all finally clicked together. Paddled, caught a leftie, got up and ahead of the break, and holyfuckingshitthisiswhatit'sallabout!!!! Nice and glassy in front of me and nobody in the way. I made one lazy turn and rode it all the way in, stepping off into ankle deep water and fell over in the excitement of my meger accomplishment.

Flat wave stoke; I'm still amped. Now how do I get spancered?

edit: whoa, post 1111, that's a lot of ones.

[Steven S. Dallas]

I thought this was going to be a thread about hot turkey sandwiches. Nice work anyway!

[tuffy109]

congratulations summertime kook. ;)

[hop]

Word! I know exactly how you feel! I can still picture every aspect (from paddle in to drop to ride to dismount) of my first real perfect green wave. Aside from one heroic no-footed drop and my first "move", it stands out as the top memory of surfing. I have yet to have a ride that matches the quality of that one.

[Superstar Punani]

If your first barrel is like your first fuck, then your first open face is like the first time you've fingered a chick


I remember my first open face wave....Nov 1986, Bronte Beach Australia. Paddling out on my Twinnie, I got out the back and had no idea what the fuck to do. The set came, turned around, paddled, then elevator dropped...got to the bottom, no idea how to bottom turn or go across, then the lip came crashing down and ate me alive.

What board you ridin DJ?

[DJSapp]

9'0" Ocean gear tri fin. Essentially a starter board, but it is actually capable of turning.

[Barnballs]

dude, congrats.

I'm at 38th/Strand in MB--usually surf in front of the power-plant.

[hop]

If your first barrel is like your first fuck, then your first open face is like the first time you've fingered a chick




hop = stuck at 3rd base for all of eternity.... :tdo13:

[DJSapp]

Barnballs, I've been meaning to head down to el shitto for my evening sessions, I just haven't been able to bring myself to jump back in the truck at 7pm to drive to a more crowded break. However, after last nights shitty inconsistent mush at the pier, I just might make it out that way this week.

[tuffy109]

you guys have been surfing? there aren't any waves.

first real wave - the day before thanksgiving, 2002 (2 months after first getting in the water, trying to take off on 3-4 ft closeouts, nearly drowning, freezing and getting my ass kicked).

do closeout barrells count? they hurt more.