PDA

View Full Version : To Wash or Not To Wash (Jackets)



Kirby
12-08-2008, 11:43 AM
Okay...so let me start off by saying that I did search this topic, but unfortunately did not find what I was looking for. Also, I am sorry for the absolutely stupid title, but whatever. Anyways, on to the question.

I have found over the years that there seems to be two opinions on whether to wash ski jackets or not. Some say that washing is good for jackets, while others scoff at the suggestion and ski in unwashed jackets for years, regardless of the the affect this may have on relationships, making friends, etc. I realize that the answer may depend on the style of jacket (shell, puffy, insulated, etc.), but I just wanted to get some opinions on whether one should wash jackets and if so how this should be done to minimize damage to the water-proofing, breathability, general structure, etc.? I have a puffy and shell that probably need to be washed, but I'm scared to even get them close to washing machines.

Opinions from hippies will of course be stereotyped.

Meadow Skipper
12-08-2008, 11:53 AM
Wash regularly with a low-residue (ie. no fabric softener) detergent (or use tech-wash if you make more money than you need), rinse thoroughly, treat as appropriate with a water-repellency restorant like Grangers or NikWax. <- this is the advice of pretty much every manufacturer, as well as every rep that I've talked with. Exception - use some kind of down wash product for down.

You can probably look up the directions on-line, or maybe just look at the tags in the jacket. Look at the Grangers and NikWax sites.

But bottom line - wash

Spats
12-08-2008, 11:57 AM
Don't wash unless you have to...the factory DWR is better than any of the Nikwax stuff.

When you finally do, don't use regular laundry detergent. REI has the stuff you need for cheap.

I find the spray-on Nikwax works better than the wash-in stuff, because the wash-in stuff waterproofs the inside too, which isn't what you want.

cold_smoke
12-08-2008, 11:58 AM
Yes, with nikwax techwash or downwash etc.

Hugh Conway
12-08-2008, 12:03 PM
Goretex claimed the reason my shell delaminated was it wasn't washed often enough. They suggested TechWash

XXX-er
12-08-2008, 12:05 PM
thats a pretty broad question ,thats like whats a good ski ?


A puffy and a shell would be totally different

Meadow Skipper
12-08-2008, 12:07 PM
Don't wash unless you have to...the factory DWR is better than any of the Nikwax stuff.
Define "have to."


When you finally do, don't use regular laundry detergent. REI has the stuff you need for cheap.
http://www.gore-tex.com/remote/Satellite/content/care-center/washing-instructions


WASH
Machine-wash warm (104° F/40° C). Powder or liquid detergent. No fabric softener. Follow manufacturer's instructions.

XXX-er
12-08-2008, 12:32 PM
For gortex or their wind suits MEC used to say "wash it lots , dry it hot"

you CAN use detergent just wash the piece a second time in JUST water/NO deteregnt to get all the detergent out,the purpose of detergent is to wet out and wash out dirt ...in use you want gortex to NOT wet out

use a wash in or spray on treatment from nikwax /revivex/ grangers ,I think spray on works best ,I tested grangers & revivex (one half of a shell in each and wear ) I found em to be virtualy the same

thro it in a hot dryer

i have never washed a down puffy but I understand you must be careful not to wreck the internal baffles in a coat

nowdays just about any coat or anything you buy has instructions for care and feeding on a website somewhere

schwerty
12-08-2008, 12:34 PM
I'd follow the above advice.

If you DON'T wash your jacket, the gunk in your sweat will clog up the "breathability" of the fabric. Thus, you loose performance. At least that's what I've heard.

wrinkledpants
12-08-2008, 12:39 PM
I find the spray-on Nikwax works better than the wash-in stuff, because the wash-in stuff waterproofs the inside too, which isn't what you want.

2nd this statement.

The oils and salt from your sweat will degrade the fabrics if your jacket isn't washed, not to mention it reduced the performance of the membrane. The little bits of grit that get into the fabric will erode it over time if you don't wash it ever. It's not like your jacket will turn to dust, but you may see the signs of wear sooner than later.

There is definitely a threshold for washing too much. I think 2 times a year with a good spray on DWR treatment is probably enough if you use the jacket often.

Original DWR coating will wear off quickly from carrying backpack, or general abrasion from stomping around in the woods. I'm on my 6th year with my Arcteryx jacket and I wash it at the change of each season with Graingers (sp?) since that's what Arcteryx recommends.

Choucas
12-08-2008, 12:52 PM
Washing correctly is better than not washing. Drying on hot is key for Gore Tex shells. Keeps them waterproof.

Joinded TGR on 4-26-04. 100th post today! I need to get a life.

snoboy
12-08-2008, 02:45 PM
Don't wash unless you have to...the factory DWR is better than any of the Nikwax stuff.

Sure, but the Factory DWR is renewed by washing and drying...

bmg97
12-08-2008, 02:47 PM
Wash that shit you smelly bastard !

oftpiste
12-08-2008, 03:26 PM
thro it in a hot dryer

i have never washed a down puffy but I understand you must be careful not to wreck the internal baffles in a coat

nowdays just about any coat or anything you buy has instructions for care and feeding on a website somewhere

For clarity: you're saying wash twice, second time without detergent and treat with spray-on BEFORE throwing into a hot dryer?

What about using oxy-clean or shout to treat stubborn stains during the initial wash cycle? Safe?

Will all membrane type jackets likely be safe using this treatment or are they different enough that they might require different methods?

Thanks for this thread. kept me from having to start it!

toddljack
12-08-2008, 03:44 PM
Kirby-extra steeze for the patton vid, that shit always makes my day, you now know too much about waterproof breathable maintenance as for the puffy, unless it is a puffy nipple wash it and dry it on not so hot as to melt it, check it in the cycle if you are unsure and halfway thru throw in a couple of tennis balls to fluff it up, also the wealthy friend/parents with the front loader machine for washing is always prefferred due to the low abuse factor compared to the top loader agitator type washer and same goes for synthetic sleeping bags.

Optimus Prime
12-08-2008, 03:53 PM
Not really adding anything that hasn't already been said, but...for the GoreTex shell, you can use powder detergent purfume and dye free is the only kind to use, liquid and/or perfume added have oils that can destroy the goretex. Then dry on hot and use the spray DWR treatment. Ive been using powdered detergent for years with no issues...

For the puffy, if it is down, use downwash and a front loader on gentle cycle or hand wash in a bathtub, then put it in a dryer on low heat with a few tennis balls or rolled up socks if you dont have any balls handy and dry, check often and pull out and shake or break up the down clumps by hand every so often.....

hafilax
12-08-2008, 03:56 PM
The biggest reason for washing jackets is to restore the DWR.

Granger's, Revivex >> Nikwax

Wash in better for membranes. Spray on better for down and softshell.

bossass
12-08-2008, 04:30 PM
I remember a rep at a tech clinic back when I worked at the ski shop saying that throwing the gore-tex in the dryer will revitalize the waterproofness or whatever. Something like that.

Sloafer11'
12-08-2008, 05:13 PM
The only time I have ever washed a jacket was when my dog shit all over a shell of mine. . . and the smell was so awful I had to get rid of it. . .(no joke). She's got colidis - so her shit really does stink worse than everyone elses.

Big Steve
12-08-2008, 05:42 PM
After 20+ years of experience trying every means to keep my shells in working shape, I agree with many of the above comments, including:

-- don't wash until the factory DWR wears off such that water no longer beads up cuz factory DWR works better than subseqently applied DWR

-- after use in wet weather, if possible, throw wet garment in dryer to dry. this seems to help the DWR work better next time. (note this works for both factory and subsequently applied DWR)

-- after factory DWR has worn off, wash with frangrant free soap or detergent, then rinse like hell (at least one full wash/rinse cycle with no soap)

-- then let garment drip dry for a half hour or so and then, while garment is still saturated (but not dripping) with water, use spray-on DWR (I like Grainger, others like Revivex) and toss in dryer per spray-on DWR mgr's instructions

deuce
12-08-2008, 06:57 PM
I'd follow the above advice.

If you DON'T wash your jacket, the gunk in your sweat will clog up the "breathability" of the fabric. Thus, you loose performance. At least that's what I've heard.

i thought i read an article on this last year that said washing it hurts the breathability of your jacket...or it could have been drying the jacket in a dryer hurts the breathability...those brain cells have since been killed off but maybe someone might remember what i am talking about.

khyber.pass
12-08-2008, 07:15 PM
Wash with Nikwax TekWash then Nikwax TX.Direct for Gore. Nikwax also makes washes + coatings for softshells, down, etc.

Remember that Patagonia will warranty jackets that have lost their DWR coating...

Unwashed jackets clog the pores and render the jacket unbreathable, dirty and ineffective at repelling the elements. Maybe with old Gore 'Silver' and 'Gold' this was preferable to washing, but not anymore.

XXX-er
12-08-2008, 07:32 PM
For clarity: you're saying wash twice, second time without detergent and treat with spray-on BEFORE throwing into a hot dryer?

What about using oxy-clean or shout to treat stubborn stains during the initial wash cycle? Safe?

Will all membrane type jackets likely be safe using this treatment or are they different enough that they might require different methods?

Thanks for this thread. kept me from having to start it!


I would check the care and feeding instructions ,there is a web site for just about every fabric or jacket out there,and there is a website for all the waterproofing treatments.I seem to remeber spraying a damp gortex with revivex & grangers altho I could be wrong , all this stuff including the boot treatments is water based .

I ran out of revivex so I did a experiment , I treated half an arcterxy shell in revivex and half in grangers ,wear for a year,check for beading ... the difference was very minimal

the extra wash cycle is to wash out all the soap & detergents,I supose you could just do another rinse

I have used "shout" for stains ,typicaly the greasey stains happen around the sleeves ,hood openning or collars touching the face and you need to treat them to get it clean,last week I had a cup of liquid detergent and a I pre-treated by dipping my finger and massaging into the stained area

a hot dryer is key to activating /reviviing the beading

with gortex dry tops we can't use a hot dryer on latex dry suit seals so we use a medium steam iron ...you can also use a medium steam iron

doublet
12-08-2008, 07:47 PM
There is a super-useful article over on Patagonia's Cleanest Line (http://www.thecleanestline.com/2008/08/the-care-feedin.html)blog that addresses caring for your shell. Seems like advice from the manufacturer would be pretty trustworthy.

mmmthmtskier
12-08-2008, 08:45 PM
I used to use NikWax Techwash but I thought it was a rip-off(cost/ounce). I noticed that most care instructions seem to mention that the garment be rinsed off thoroughly. That got me to thinking that an environmentally-friendly soap/detergeant would probably be best. I use Ecover delicate wash(purchased at a health food store) and have thought about using good 'ol Campsuds. Basically something mild and benign, the less sudsy the better.
As far as DWR is concerned, it seems more manufacturers' are saying to use Granger products these days...

birdboatboy
12-09-2008, 08:04 AM
I'm cheap and have used Fels-Naptha instead of Techwash. I believe that it is pure soap with no added perfumes or softeners.
http://www.purex.com/index.cfm?page_id=47

Just take a cheese grater and grate some into the machine.
Thoughts on that?

Kirby
12-09-2008, 08:23 AM
Thanks for all the advice everyone.

I think my anxiety over this topic is starting to wain enough that I'm going to finally wash my stuff.

Now about these dreadlocks......

Jer
12-09-2008, 08:29 AM
Definetly wash your jacket once in awhile. DO NOT wash your hair!

RShea
12-09-2008, 10:56 AM
I'm cheap and have used Fels-Naptha instead of Techwash. I believe that it is pure soap with no added perfumes or softeners.
http://www.purex.com/index.cfm?page_id=47

Just take a cheese grater and grate some into the machine.
Thoughts on that?


I too have been using Fels-Naptha to wash many of my ski jackets, pants, shells, etc. No local store carried the Tech wash stuff when I was searching and I did not want to order the stuff on line. It does not have the detergents in it so no extra rinse cycles, etc. but still cleans. Instead of carving some off, I just stick it the bar in a cup of water for a day or 2 and let the water get it all soft and gooey. Just dump the water in like it is liquid soap and if you need some more add some of the soft goop off the bar.

wcf3
12-09-2008, 01:46 PM
For gortex or their wind suits MEC used to say "wash it lots , dry it hot"

you CAN use detergent just wash the piece a second time in JUST water/NO deteregnt to get all the detergent out,the purpose of detergent is to wet out and wash out dirt ...in use you want gortex to NOT wet out

use a wash in or spray on treatment from nikwax /revivex/ grangers ,I think spray on works best ,I tested grangers & revivex (one half of a shell in each and wear ) I found em to be virtualy the same

thro it in a hot dryer

i have never washed a down puffy but I understand you must be careful not to wreck the internal baffles in a coat

nowdays just about any coat or anything you buy has instructions for care and feeding on a website somewhere

Can't concur with the "dry it hot" suggestion above, at least regarding goretex. I've owned alot of goretex gear used mostly for kyaking (drytops and such). There you find out in a hurry when the water resistance starts to go.

My experience has been that to avoid losing the waterproofing quality of goretex you want to avoid drying if in a dryer. Hang dry or toss in a dryer without heat. Used to only get a season out of a drytop when hot drying it. Cool drying them I'll get two or three.

Big Steve
12-09-2008, 04:26 PM
Can't concur with the "dry it hot" suggestion above, at least regarding goretex.

Gore recommends tumble dry on warm setting, claiming that "heat from the dryer will help to reactivate the DWR." See http://www.gore-tex.com/remote/Satellite/content/care-center/washing-instructions

Sierra Hotel
12-09-2008, 07:44 PM
Here is what Mountain Hardware says...
http://www.mountainhardwear.com/images/MHW_care_shells.html

XXX-er
12-09-2008, 07:46 PM
Can't concur with the "dry it hot" suggestion above, at least regarding goretex. I've owned alot of goretex gear used mostly for kyaking (drytops and such). There you find out in a hurry when the water resistance starts to go.

My experience has been that to avoid losing the waterproofing quality of goretex you want to avoid drying if in a dryer. Hang dry or toss in a dryer without heat. Used to only get a season out of a drytop when hot drying it. Cool drying them I'll get two or three.

Even if you agreed with the concept of heating gortex to reactivate it you don't want to put a dry top in a dryer, it could wreck the latex seals ...I use a medium steam iron which is a way to heat up the gortex without touching the latex .

I dry everything gortex in a hot dryer ,nothing has ever delamed and thats arcteryx/MEC/Tiaga/OR/kokotat ,wikipedia even tells you to put yer gortex in a dryer or iron it

MEC's care & feeding
http://www.mec.ca/Main/content_text.jsp?CONTENT%3C%3Ecnt_id=1013419867322 1131&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302881782&bmUID=1228879282762

skiing-in-jackson
12-09-2008, 08:38 PM
Joinded TGR on 4-26-04. 100th post today! I need to get a life.

:nonono2::nonono2::nonono2:

There are a few 10K posters that need to get a life, you're doing just fine.

wizard604
12-09-2008, 09:59 PM
The instructions for my arcteryx hardshell also says to hang dry. But I've also heard machine dryer with warm heat, so I'm confused. Which is correct?


My experience has been that to avoid losing the waterproofing quality of goretex you want to avoid drying if in a dryer. Hang dry or toss in a dryer without heat. Used to only get a season out of a drytop when hot drying it. Cool drying them I'll get two or three.

pisteoff
12-09-2008, 10:49 PM
There are a few 10K posters that need to get a life, you're doing just fine.

Yeah, that's what I was thinking.

I wash my gore-tex jacket once at the end of each season and put it away in the back of my closet. The pants and bibs may see a few washings per season (obviously depending on how dirty they get). I use tech wash and use the spray-on dwr stuff once the factory coating starts to wear off. All of my shells stay water repellent long after they go out of fashion and/or the zippers break.

Hugh Conway
12-10-2008, 03:39 PM
Can't concur with the "dry it hot" suggestion above, at least regarding goretex. I've owned alot of goretex gear used mostly for kyaking (drytops and such). There you find out in a hurry when the water resistance starts to go.

My experience has been that to avoid losing the waterproofing quality of goretex you want to avoid drying if in a dryer. Hang dry or toss in a dryer without heat. Used to only get a season out of a drytop when hot drying it. Cool drying them I'll get two or three.

WLGore advised me to dry my Goretex in the Dryer to rejuvenate it.

hafilax
12-10-2008, 04:43 PM
Nikwax DWR doesn't need hot drying. Granger's and Revivex require drying in order for it to bond to the fibers properly. I believe they are fluorocarbon based. Popping it in the dryer every once in a while seems to improve it a bit. As I said before, Nikwax doesn't work as well IMO.

strum
12-10-2008, 08:20 PM
this has been covered well, but here is the Official word from Gore (Via Kai to the MountainTechs)

Caring for GORE-TEX®

It doesn’t take much effort to care for your GORE-TEX® garment – far less than it takes to keep your car or your bike clean, for example. It’s really easy…and it’s really important in order to keep it in top (waterproof) condition.

Proper care is largely misunderstood. Some research shows that 40% of owners never wash their GORE-TEX® outerwear because they think that may damage the waterproofing. On the other hand, some wearers report their jacket is leaking because it feels damp and cold – when it is actually because the outer layer has started absorbing water (a condition known as “wet-out”). The two situations are often related.

The GORE-TEX® membrane is bonded to an outer fabric, which is the outer layer of your garment. The membrane won’t leak (unless you puncture or rip it), but if the outer fabric absorbs water you will feel like you are wet. And since wet clothing draws heat away from your warm, dry body 23 times faster than air, this is not good. Furthermore, wet-out results in a heavy jacket – which dries out slowly.

To keep all of this from happening, all GORE-TEX® outerwear is treated with a durable water-repellant coating (DWR) when it is made. This causes water to bead up and roll off. As long as rain beads up on the shoulders, back and arms of your jacket, the DWR is in good condition, and you won’t experience wet-out.

Over time (usually several years), this DWR coating can be worn off in spots from rubbing or abrasion (e.g., a backpack shoulder strap or branches and bushes) or become contaminated with smoke (campfire or cigarette), dirt, body oils or detergent.

If you have not let your jacket go too long without cleaning, the solution to “wet out” (or the prevention if you haven’t yet experienced the problem) is pretty simple…just machine wash warm with regular detergent, rinse twice (to remove all soap residue) and tumble dry warm for an hour. (Do NOT use bleach or fabric softeners). Washing and especially drying can restore the original DWR water-repellant performance of the outer layer. You should do this once each season (fall, winter, spring, summer) in which you wear the jacket.

Eventually too much of the original DWR will become worn away to be revived by washing and drying. Then it is time to restore the garment’s water repellency with a spray-on (if your jacket has a wicking liner) or wash-in treatment available at all outdoor stores (ReviveX®, Grangers or Nikwax). After washing the garment, hang it up and spray the areas that are wetting out with DWR, then toss it in the dryer on warm until completely dry. If you are using Nikwax, which has a primary ingredient of wax, hang-drying is best.

If your garment has other instructions from the manufacturer, be sure to follow those instructions, as they may supercede the above. If you still have questions, call Gore’s hotline - 1.800.431.4673.

reganized
12-10-2008, 10:38 PM
Taped seams on shells DO NOT do well in the dryer.

TI
12-12-2008, 07:34 AM
I know that for my North Face shells, they do fine with a couple of washings per season and just a cool air tumble dry.

XXX-er
12-12-2008, 09:48 AM
Taped seams on shells DO NOT do well in the dryer.

In the past I used to see tape fall off,I returned 3 pairs of taped mitts cuz the tape fell off .

If tape falls off you should return the product thats a definate failure but from what I have seen tape stays on nowdays

if it isnt a product you can return use seam sealer or aqua seal to stick loose tape down

mb2778
12-20-2008, 06:05 AM
The only time I have ever washed a jacket was when my dog shit all over a shell of mine. . . and the smell was so awful I had to get rid of it. . .(no joke). She's got colidis - so her shit really does stink worse than everyone elses.

that's horrible! to clarify, you got rid of the jacket or the dog?

DasBlunt
10-30-2010, 08:12 PM
Bump for getting the smelly shit out for the new season.
?
Any new products that are better than Nickwax? That shit has pissed me off for 20 years.

XXX-er
10-30-2010, 10:07 PM
I have field tested revivex & grangers on the same garment at the same time ,IME they work exactly the same I would just use whatever spray-in you can buy localy that is cheaper

kombo
10-31-2010, 01:19 PM
I know it's been mentioned over and over; especially for Gore Tex... But it holds true for other brands and their waterproof fabrics as well. My friend works for Patagonia as a textile engineer for their outdoor gear and he's told me this over and over.

The original DWR is the best. Wash the jacket if you have to (sounds like you're due for it). The first few washes shouldn't require reapplication of DWR. Just throwing it in the dryer (warm) helps reactivate the original DWR. No need to apply DWR if this is your first wash.

I'll ask him about the best DWR to use and best method to apply. Also, I'll check with him on the insulated stuff, and post again if I get an answer.

lynchdogger
10-31-2010, 07:25 PM
Wash. Often. More often depending on fabric. Follow instructions on label.

I've had a a pair of Patagonia Gore-tex pants that are 20 years old and still in use (back ups now) because they were washed on a regular basis. They have been repaired twice by Patagonia and are still in great shape.

For Gore products - Nikwax products are the best! Techwash and spray on DWR not wash-in.

Just bought my first Event shell (Montane) and interested to see how it breathes and wears.

Rossta
10-31-2010, 08:56 PM
i've found that i do need to wash my jackets occasionally. I just put them on the "delicate" setting and then let them hang dry. i've seen special detergents made for this type of thing that (i believe) are supposed to re waterproof them or something. never tried that stuff though...

DasBlunt
10-31-2010, 10:47 PM
Wash. Often. More often depending on fabric. Follow instructions on label.

I've had a a pair of Patagonia Gore-tex pants that are 20 years old and still in use (back ups now) because they were washed on a regular basis. They have been repaired twice by Patagonia and are still in great shape.

For Gore products - Nikwax products are the best! Techwash and spray on DWR not wash-in.

Just bought my first Event shell (Montane) and interested to see how it breathes and wears.

How are Nickwax products the best? I find their Leather product to be awesome. Everything else, lamesauce and not great.

DasBlunt
10-31-2010, 10:48 PM
Powdered detergent, gentle wash, dry to revive the DWR.

oftpiste
11-01-2010, 09:35 AM
Interesting point made in the Gore instructions in post #39....

If your jacket has a wicking liner use spray-on. If not use wash-in. Always wondered if that was the case. Makes sense but the Nikwax instructions don't tell you that.

lynchdogger
11-01-2010, 10:07 AM
How are Nickwax products the best? I find their Leather product to be awesome. Everything else, lamesauce and not great.

I dunno? It's all I've ever used and has worked great. But open for trying new things. Just one man's opinion. There is some good stuff in this thread - nice post OP.

lynchdogger
11-01-2010, 10:20 AM
WLGore advised me to dry my Goretex in the Dryer to rejuvenate it.

Hugh, should I put my Goretex in the dryer to rejuvenate it?! :wink:

http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTzZlF6lyBOdHmYqZNSn87PbVP-DveEDlmHgf4d0h_9ikwUrMY&t=1&usg=__Kdc-9D-8_dM5ykfSKhpMVGxuGgA=

schindlerpiste
04-11-2013, 08:41 AM
I need to wash my Theta SV shell. I bought some KIWI Performance Fabric Protection (Advanced polymer [non-silicone] protection). Is this the same as Granger's? Recommended, not recommended? I don't want to ruin my, otherwise, great jacket.

bbense
04-11-2013, 08:56 AM
After 20+ years of experience trying every means to keep my shells in working shape, I agree with many of the above comments, including:

-- don't wash until the factory DWR wears off such that water no longer beads up cuz factory DWR works better than subseqently applied DWR

-- after use in wet weather, if possible, throw wet garment in dryer to dry. this seems to help the DWR work better next time. (note this works for both factory and subsequently applied DWR)

-- after factory DWR has worn off, wash with frangrant free soap or detergent, then rinse like hell (at least one full wash/rinse cycle with no soap)

-- then let garment drip dry for a half hour or so and then, while garment is still saturated (but not dripping) with water, use spray-on DWR (I like Grainger, others like Revivex) and toss in dryer per spray-on DWR mgr's instructions

+1 for all that. Almost all my gear goes in the dryer after every trip. My stuff lives in the basement so it's important to have it completely dry before storage.

gregL
04-11-2013, 09:14 AM
For clarity: you're saying wash twice, second time without detergent and treat with spray-on BEFORE throwing into a hot dryer?

What about using oxy-clean or shout to treat stubborn stains during the initial wash cycle? Safe?

Will all membrane type jackets likely be safe using this treatment or are they different enough that they might require different methods?

Thanks for this thread. kept me from having to start it!

Yes, wash twice (or just run the rinse cycle the second time). A medium dryer is fine; it also helps to iron the fabric (warm iron, ~wool). Don't know about OxyClean, but I use Shout quite a bit on GORE-TEX and eVent without issue.

Some membranes adhere better to the face fabrics than others, and some take washing and heat better than others.

gregL
04-11-2013, 09:17 AM
Interesting point made in the Gore instructions in post #39....

If your jacket has a wicking liner use spray-on. If not use wash-in. Always wondered if that was the case. Makes sense but the Nikwax instructions don't tell you that.

Personally, I don't see any reason to have your DWR on the inside of the membrane regardless of whether the garment is 2L or 3L; you want the pores of the membrane to be as clean as possible and the DWR is designed to protect the face fabric.

+1 to the people who say the aftermarket DWR is never as good as the factory stuff.

zeroforhire
04-12-2013, 09:26 PM
Depends on the fabric. eVent has to be washed often, gore tex... Not as much. I wash mine once or twice a season.

I use that sport wash that you can get at Walmart. Found in the outdoors section. Way cheaper than nikwax or grangier, and works just fine.